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Galaxy DX 979 unlocking clairifier

SuperLid said:
Flow solder on the joint you intend to lift out first. It will make removal easier. Other method, would be heat the joint, lift the lead and then clear the hole with the solder sucker.
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Removed the top cover last night and found all those solder points jammed really close together,so now I will remove the bottom cover and see how it will be to get the resistor & diode out once de-soldered. Right now it doesn't look very promising. I use to work for a electronics company and see the girls solder circuit boards under magnification and even microscopes but they have better manual dexterity than me. I was a maintenance man. I won't risk messing my radio up if I don't like what I see under my Big Lite Magnification on my bench. I'm definitely better with my welder than my soldering iron. LOL
 
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whiteastro said:
Removed the top cover last night and found all those solder points jammed really close together,so now I will remove the bottom cover and see how it will be to get the resistor & diode out once de-soldered. Right now it doesn't look very promising. I use to work for a electronics company and see the girls solder circuit boards under magnification and even microscopes but they have better manual dexterity than me. I was a maintenance man. I won't risk messing my radio up if I don't like what I see under my Big Lite Magnification on my bench. I'm definitely better with my welder than my soldering iron. LOL
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It's all simple through hole, don't sweat it buddy. Pretty good sized pads and plenty of room to play football in there!
 
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With the covers off, I usually stand the radio up on its side. Then take a pen light and hold it up to the board where the component is. Then look on the solder side and vice versa to know for sure what I am working on. Then I clip a small hemostat to the leg and pull gently while heating the solider side. (If it doesn't come out then I got the wrong spot.) Then clean the hole out with a solider sucker.
 
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whiteastro said:
Removed the top cover last night and found all those solder points jammed really close together,so now I will remove the bottom cover and see how it will be to get the resistor & diode out once de-soldered. Right now it doesn't look very promising. I use to work for a electronics company and see the girls solder circuit boards under magnification and even microscopes but they have better manual dexterity than me. I was a maintenance man. I won't risk messing my radio up if I don't like what I see under my Big Lite Magnification on my bench. I'm definitely better with my welder than my soldering iron. LOL
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Perhaps it would be easier for you to clip one lead of D68 and R113 with a flush cutter? They could be tack soldered later if needed.
 
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SuperLid said:
Perhaps it would be easier for you to clip one lead of D68 and R113 with a flush cutter? They could be tack soldered later if needed.
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Thanks for the help, but it will take a while to get at because of too much on my plate for a man who lives alone. Mother Nature & Old Man Winter is playing games with me again. Who's the nut that said Let it Snow Let it Snow Let it Snow !
 
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Shadetree Mechanic said:
Then clean the hole out with a solider sucker.
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Ok I finally received my new solder sucker today and being a old maintenance man it stirs thoughts of having to clean solder out of the sucker eventually or does it just stay in the plastic tube attached to the sucker. I never seen one used before but know I wouldn't want to ruin a good tool due to improper use or care. All advice gladly accepted
 
whiteastro said:
Ok I finally received my new solder sucker today and being a old maintenance man it stirs thoughts of having to clean solder out of the sucker eventually or does it just stay in the plastic tube attached to the sucker. I never seen one used before but know I wouldn't want to ruin a good tool due to improper use or care. All advice gladly accepted
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You will need to clean out the solder periodically. I also apply a small amount of vaseline around the o-ring seal at the tip when I clean it out.
 
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SuperLid said:
You will need to clean out the solder periodically. I also apply a small amount of vaseline around the o-ring seal at the tip when I clean it out.
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The solder doesn't stick to the metal ? Is it too cold by the time it reaches that point ????
 
I make mistakes all the time and sometimes find them later and have to edit to correct them. I'm one of those blue collar 1 finger typist. LOL
 
I think I had a Dumb Attack and misplaced my little Weller soldering Iron and can't seem to find it. Wanted to solder a small wire in a microphone but I'll only look one more day before I buy a new one. Was looking at them online and they are cheap. Question is do you think a 30 watt iron is big enough for my up-coming circuit board work ?
 
whiteastro said:
I think I had a Dumb Attack and misplaced my little Weller soldering Iron and can't seem to find it. Wanted to solder a small wire in a microphone but I'll only look one more day before I buy a new one. Was looking at them online and they are cheap. Question is do you think a 30 watt iron is big enough for my up-coming circuit board work ?
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Yes, 30 watt is good. Just avoid the orange Weller's. The sky blue are the real one's.
 
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SuperLid said:
Yes, 30 watt is good. Just avoid the orange Weller's. The sky blue are the real one's.
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Thanks for the tip. I did find my old iron tonight because I just wouldn't let it rest because I had it for years. But I will get a new blue one because I was reading the some solder melts at 400 degrees and some at 600 degrees so I want make sure I have one large enough to finish any job.
 

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