Hakko FR-300 desoldering tool

[N0NB]

If you're doing rework with descrete components, this tool is the bomb!

35+ years ago I started out with one of those short fat blue desoldering tools from Radio Shack ( it's so old I can't even find an image of it). It served me well for many years but its limitation was that it might not clean out the PCB hole the first time and then it took quite a bit more work to loosen the component. After it was mostly shot, I tried the aluminum bodied thing and the one I had broke not long after. I even tried the soldering iron with a squeeze ball on it that I just didn't seem to get the hang of.

I had a project that was going to require desoldering and I wasn't confident in any of those tools so I started looking for a desoldering station. Well, those aren't cheap unless one gets a questionable one from the C H Ina Company. A bit more searching led me to the Hakko line of soldering tools. For my intended usage I narrowed my choice down the FR-300 as shown with this kit available from Amazon and probably other vendors:

The unit has an integrated vacuum pump that runs as long as the yellow trigger is depressed. The yellow knob on the bottom of the handle allows for setting the tip temperature. It is continuously variable. The filter pipe which is the almost clear tube at the top of the unit is where the solder ends up. After desoldering 15 capacitors mine had a small amount of solder in the pipe. Removing it to clean is simple and unlike some cheaper units I saw videos on, this one has a metal plate in front of the filter element which should extend the life of the filter element considerably. A quick tap on the work bench and a flake of solder came off the plate. Looking at the filter element through the bench magnifier shows it too be relatively clean.

Operation is simple. Once the tip has reached operating temperature place the tip down on the joint with the component lead through the tip hole. Once the solder melts wiggle it around a bit to work the solder loose in the hole, press the trigger and presto! the solder is gone. Sometimes I will have to do it again on a double sided joint if the heat didn't warm the under side enough. Once the solder is removed, the component will sometimes fall out on its own or can be removed with a light finger grip. If the component seems loose but doesn't want to come out, repeat the process. I had one capacitor I had to repeat a couple of times and then it fell out--there was a large ground plane on the solder side and a pad on the component side. Perhaps turning up the temperature would have made this a one pull removal.

I am still learning to use this tool. So far it has made desoldering enjoyable! Prior to acquiring this tool desoldering was a chore and kept me from taking on some projects as I had damaged boards in the past using braid and whatnot.

I'll give this five stars out of five.

 

[nomadradio]

Bought one of these when they discontinued the larger, bulkier model 808. Hired another guy, needed a second 808, but too late. By then they didn't sell it any more.

This one is an improvement. Smaller, lighter but works just as well.

Hardest part about it is training the help to treat it like a M16 rifle. You don't pull the trigger and hold it down. The air rushing into the tip will remove heat, and cause the tip temperature to fall. Single shots and short bursts, like a full-auto rifle. This lets the heating element recover the tip temperature faster. Melting solder removes heat from the tip. The rush of air through it does this even faster.

This is the tool of choice for any double-sided pc board with plated-through holes. I can still get parts off of a single-sided board with a teflon-tipped squeeze bulb. But double-side boards are a whole 'nother challenge.

The metal sleeve on the inside surface of the hole in a solder pad will want to retain solder, due to surface tension. The solder just sticks to the inside rim of the hole. A heated-tip sucker is the only reasonable way to get around this. This tool vastly reduces the risk of damage to a double-sided board.

When possible, I prefer to use a conventional iron to remove parts with two legs. "Walking" them back and forth once or twice gets the parts out. This leaves only solder in the hole. Takes less additional heat to remove the solder alone once the lead wire or pin is already gone.

Changing a chip in a Cobra 2000 clock/counter calls for clipping the pins above the shoulder, flush to the plastic body of the chip. The briefest touch of a conventional iron tip allows you to pull each pin from its hole with a forceps or the tip of tiny dikes. Sucking solder alone, with the chip pins removed is faster and neater.

And the sum-total heat exposure is what controls the level of damage to a board when it gets reworked at all. The shorter you can make that heat stress removing and replacing a part, the fewer pcb-trace repairs you'll have to do.

This one warms up faster than the older model. Takes just under 60 seconds from turning it on, to being ready to use. No need to leave it plugged in for extended periods.

Thanks for posting this.
73

 

[Shadetree Mechanic]

I have something like it but mine is a pencil style. It has the hollow tip but has a plunger style sucker. Cock it back and push the button. I will be checking out the FR-300 soon.

 

[Tallman]

I have several industrial models I bought from a company that was going out of business.
There are methods you need to know, Not every solder removal device works on every situation. The vacuum types like you have will destroy a circuit board if not used properly. Pre-tin the tip before going to the circuit board. Do not press hard into the circuit board because this will damage the traces. when the solder melts make a circular motion to free up the lead then hit the suction switch.
I still use solder braid, the Solderpullit from time to time.

 

[nbsr]

This post forced me down memory land. Found it yesterday cleaning up and reminded me how using it was like 2 monkeys screwing a football.

 

[Smokinone]

I have the 808 and it works great for me. I can see where the smaller version would be beneficial.