Recovered the little threaded core and it isn't damaged, but its like it doesn't seem to fit the threads in coil, it just slips on by and falls to the bottom.
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Help with Uniden Grant XL
- Thread starter crappykraco
- Start date
take a little section of a thin rubber band and put it vertically on the ferrite slug.
then insert it into the core. should be able to get it to thread in then.
LC
then insert it into the core. should be able to get it to thread in then.
LC
Sometimes I'll rest a small piece of paper or snip of rubber band in the hole before threading the slug back in. It will press it to one side keeping the threaded surfaces in contact. Once you get the carrier back on AM after following the alignment instructions, you can use VR10 to adjust the carrier to 4watts. It will possibly go past 10, but anything over 3 to 5 watts might not fully modulate making you sound quiet or muffled.
That picture you showed looks like all the coils have been turned. They all have a mark but none of the slots in the slugs line up with the marks. Don't turn anything until someone tells you.
Thanks.. I was able to get it back together.
I have vr10 wide open and i can't get anywhere near 4 watt carrier. Now that i have that coil fixed (maybe?) I'll try to go through the alignment instructions again.
Does it still make decent power while talking in SSB? If not, something gave up the ghost.
In post 5 you mentioned weird behavior while setting bias, I wonder if one of the the bias pots are screwed up. If bias is always high it can cook the AM regulator and possibly the final or driver from overheat. Also post 1 says something about cracked solder joints near the final, I'd double check that spot too. The only way I know to test the final or driver is to remove and use a tester or the "diode test". Someone might have a test that doesnt require removal.
In post 5 you mentioned weird behavior while setting bias, I wonder if one of the the bias pots are screwed up. If bias is always high it can cook the AM regulator and possibly the final or driver from overheat. Also post 1 says something about cracked solder joints near the final, I'd double check that spot too. The only way I know to test the final or driver is to remove and use a tester or the "diode test". Someone might have a test that doesnt require removal.