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MOBILE INSTALL: 579 Peterbilt

Hopefully you didn't have to sail across the high plains in the last couple of days. Man, the wind has been about right for this time of year with many trucks that couldn't keep the shiny side up in the 70+ gusts today. The o'l firestik was doing the corkscrew but didn't snap, the base was still standing when I pulled in the driveway this evening. Keep safe out there slow, enjoy some days at the casa as you've earned it my friend.
 
Getting home by 12th-13th. Glad winter seems to be over. Gear, tools and supplies arrived and await me.
Don't assume just yet, it's winding down yes.

A major winter storm is moving across the Rockies eastwards thru the plains. Plenty of snow in northern Az right now moving into my area here in NM.

March is unsettling for most of the country. It can snow one day then severe thunderstorms the next. Then there's the high winds that kick up especially in the desert southwest.

Then just when you think winters over come April, there's what I call the April surprise where 1 last snow storm will hit somewhere in the country catching a lot of people off guard.

Other than the high elevations in the Rockies, by mid April that should be it.

These days I'm doing late night grocery store deliveries in northern New Mexico towns like Taos, Los Alamos, and Santa Fe which are all 7000 ft elevation or higher and I'll see snow showers thru mid May.

Thought I'd share my observations over the last couple of decades with my fellow drivers and everyone else too!

Drive safe out there!
 
Thanks. Agreed that I can’t clear the truck of all winter gear. Yet. I use MyRadar for its pinpoint accuracy and E-Z format. Scroll down into a screen of my destination, for example.

Yesterday the winds from IL down into AR were steadily strong with gusts that would move one out of the lane. A long day.

First “winter storm” of this season I hit in going E across NM in late October. 8-wrecks in a 1.5-mile stretch E of Amarillo.

Still . . the daffodils are coming up, the redbuds are blooming and birds are flying north.

I bumped this thread to more easily find it once home. Glad that you pair added to it.

Traffic problems need no help from Mother Nature in order to occur. But they can be hell when stupid gets mixed with storm-y.

Theres just no end to having a great radio rig. Good as can be installed.

.
 
Home is 23-miles as the crow flies (from mid-cities D/FW), but the latest route — at 13:48 on a Friday after 470-miles from west of Memphis and one twenty (20) mile detour already to get to the receiver — will be forty-six (46) miles due to problems stacking up.

Listening to local commodity-haulers on AN-19 making on-the-fly decisions about routing.

Alteady been grateful 2X I wasn’t headed THAT way thru to get to where I am. Hopefully that will continue the rest of the way towards home. Pay storage on the trailer to avoid a 100-mile round trip to retrieve it sounds just fine right now.

65F this morning in AR. 75F now in D/FW.

EDIT: Had three stops. Short at each (drop trailer at yard; post office; etc). Still took almost four hours to cover the revised routing. Pleased was able to avoid lock-ups in traffic with radio info.

.

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Now home — somewhat rested — and with items received, time to upgrade:

1). POS power run from BATT to the POWERWERX PD-75 distribution block with a run of 6-AWG.

9BE6206F-8320-46B6-A1F2-E2C078285503.jpeg
2). Install RM ITALY KL-7405V amplifier.
B5B4AAAD-424C-48FB-8424-12B35EE4D148.jpeg
3). Install new HD Radio Swivel Bracket so that, first, I’m not moving my head (tilt) to locate the off-angle faceplate, and, second, to then focus on the controls.

I’d like to be able to do just a bit more while moving without a several-part diversion from the road. (Visual confirmation of tactile operation).

— Example: There are days I spend quite a few hours driving in the dark. Changing faceplate brightness is a must. (I have to change approx four devices daylight-to-darkness).

Received was the swivel base unit. Already have upper mounting brackets in several sizes into which different-sized radios can be fitted.

158CC940-B8ED-4D25-BCAA-668A61AAF627.jpeg

Also received PALOMAR ENGINEERS

(1-ea) CMNF-500 Coax Noise Filter
(At radio)

(2-ea) MC50-500 Line Isolator
At antenna feedpoint

Last, Aries-brand cophase BELDEN antenna harness with AMPHENOL PL-259 ends.


POWER
A. The power run is substitution for existing work done a year ago. Replacing ANCOR 10/2 Duplex. The MARINCO 3% Voltage Drop Chart notes 6-AWG can handle 30A to 25’. Working Amperage is expected to be 18A by the KL7405v. Radio & Speaker & Wireless Mic expected to be low.

— I’ll measure total circuit length after installation. 20-25’ is expected.

B) 12V distribution is also substitution.
Replacing SOTABEAM box. (Four versus three outlets plus higher amp input).

C). Re-purpose existing in-console 12V NEG ground. (New RF Bond “grounds” for 411cb Bandpass Filters separately).


COAX
A). Access antenna ends thru pocket shelves to grind off powder coat at antenna mounts.

B). Install Line Isolators after UHF to MINI-UHF adapters.

C). Route new coax so that no mechanical pinch points exist (and coil excess away from either leg ending).


AMP
A). Install inside console; affixed with Velcro it won’t move (or put pressure on Power + Coax ends). Retain ability to enable switch function daily (on-off).


SWIVEL BRKT
Can likely use existing bracket holes. If it’s not a good fit, I’ll save it for the Dodge or the travel trailer. In which case I’ll Velcro some cloth to flip down over the display. Radio controls don’t need any adjustment overnight.

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Learned something funny.

It’s not an exact measurement, but the OEM integrated antenna mounts on the cab above the A-pillar are (ready?)

108” above the ground.

I’d like to try the 3/8 Sirio 5000, but that 6’ whip is going to be at 15.5’. (108 + 80)

14 & change, I’d chance it. 6.5’ is just too much. Looks like 5’ is enough

The W-2000s are at about 56”. 13’6”. Need that next 4-6” to get above the trailer (13’5” clearance).

Am already on the 10” risers
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Every thought about leaning them forward, Curb - Feelers for Trees and Low-hanging Hobos' on bridge overpasses.

The forward angle can at least allow some headroom - not by much but inches you can gain, helps.
 
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Every thought about leaning them forward, Curb - Feelers for Trees and Low-hanging Hobos' on bridge overpasses.

The forward angle can at least allow some headroom - not by much but inches you can gain, helps.


Okay. Lean them how?

Not aware of a 3/8 stud allows tilt.

I’d be more than willing to try that.

I’ve seen some shafts formed over into a “tilt”; is that what you mean?

A welding shop? (I don’t own a vise and haven’t a torch either. Zip applicable experience).

I have both 5” & 10” Wilson SS risers.

Get more antenna into play and at a higher total height has been a winner every time I’ve tried it.

80” antennas are more desirable than 56” antennas.

But what angle of degree should be maximum? Clay Thompson told me years ago that 15-20/degrees will work fine. But somewhere past that is a Go/No-Go mark.

.
 
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That's the problem, you don't have "typical" mirror mounts which simply clamped onto a bar, you could then tilt them.

upload_2021-3-14_18-59-7.png

The Bend you're trying to do, DON'T at least don't waste your effort. The Bend would NEED to be nearer the bottom, so the effort would need a swivel a 3/8's - 24 that allows the vertical mount to tilt or pivot using a setscrew.

upload_2021-3-14_18-57-1.png

The ones they offer now are very basic and more of a joke than work - they can;t handle high-levels of torque and stress - bouncing along on the highway will eventually snap them or strip them of their ability to hold fast at the angle they're seated for.

Lean them forward to offer longer whips more clearance, but since you're are at right angle and 108" above - you are now limited to the height and tilt that other truckers using simple Mirror bracket types enjoyed.

So that 20 degree angle was about the most tilt you could offer.

So not flaming you, just the inability to work - put in more effort, to this carborundrum is frustrating.
 
Hey Slowmover where did you get the Rm 7405? I am thinking about getting one for my pickup.I see them listed at dnjradio.com. Not sure if the one they have is an export model.
I may go with another rm 203. I have had my 203 for 5 years or more now and it still works great. Not bad at all for a throw away heater.
 
That's the problem, you don't have "typical" mirror mounts which simply clamped onto a bar, you could then tilt them.


The Bend you're trying to do, DON'T at least don't waste your effort. The Bend would NEED to be nearer the bottom, so the effort would need a swivel a 3/8's - 24 that allows the vertical mount to tilt or pivot using a setscrew.


The ones they offer now are very basic and more of a joke than work - they can;t handle high-levels of torque and stress - bouncing along on the highway will eventually snap them or strip them of their ability to hold fast at the angle they're seated for.

Lean them forward to offer longer whips more clearance, but since you're are at right angle and 108" above - you are now limited to the height and tilt that other truckers using simple Mirror bracket types enjoyed.

So that 20 degree angle was about the most tilt you could offer.

So not flaming you, just the inability to work - put in more effort, to this carborundrum is frustrating.


Custom antenna length comes to DIY. I REALLY don’t know enough. So will leave it alone for now.
 
Just about to cut the POS 6-AWG to it’s custom length. Looks like 17’. (Routing is BATT BOX to firewall and thru air line panel then up A-pillar. Tight to get past air horn).

Slightly shorter routing than last time (18-24”) and the NEG will be 2.25’.

Am cutting both over a foot longer than required. Someone else might get the NEG to 6”. (16.5’ TTL minimum).

Easily under 20’ TTL Circuit to 12V panel, IOW.

Assuming no extraneous losses other than the Bussman Termination Fuse, that’s rated 3% Voltage Drop at 40A (almost 50A) according to the chart by MARINCO.

Radio + Speaker + Amp ought to be 20A or so (continuous).

Cabling doesn’t go near engine heat, so that type of loss potential (thermolysis) won’t be near the cover temperature rated at 225F (105C). Might be steadily above 100F come summer. I’ll get some readings then.

Still shy a clamp-on Ammeter.
The present radio shows Voltage.

IMO, any wiring bigger than 6-AWG would be a bear to get it into the overhead console. The amp slated to run is fused for 20A and draws 18A continuous with from 80-140W (conservative).

Edit: Experience makes for caution. Spent the final 2-3/hours doing nothing more than terminating those power cables and figuring out routing for power + coax given new amp location and inclusion of 945e Tuner Still ain’t done, but tomorrow will see it finished.

I’ll dig out THE WILSON BAG and see if I can’t get those antennas a little taller what with all sorts of parts substitutions one slow day or morning.



.
 
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The new coax & Line Isolators aren’t going in. At least not on this trip. Access to the mount thru the interior was worse than I thought. Did no irreparable cuts, just did some prying as the new power went in.

The Good News (street edition) was that I was able to access the RF BOND machine screws on each side!

Nothing as a subject has pestered my mind more than that combined 1.2-square inch area needing powder-coat removed. How to get to it?

So — in for a dime, in for a dollar — the new coax and isolators were just some $$ spent as insurance to do a better job as I was going to have to go to real lengths to access the interior side of the antenna mounts.

That door ain’t quite shut, but the new job survey shows it’ll be enough work all by itself to be a success. Which precludes my wanting to do other work simultaneously.


— New radio last time I left the house a month ago.
— This time, HD upgrade to power & 12V distribution plus new amp.
— Antenna Mount bonds improved.

— Cross-Needle Tuner plus an SWR/FS Meter are aboard.
— Wilson Antenna & associated parts aboard to work height & SWR.
— DVM to get used to check Voltage during operation.

The backup radio (U-980) plus a KL-203 & KES-5
and spares/adapters for microphones, tools, supply, etc
In their respective carriers.

Took a good while to get here — two years plus — yet the satisfaction of when it all works well is hard to describe. Closest I know — in making a high speed (mental alertness) bypass of a problem on a major road with other drivers with good radio gear — is the kind of thrill that makes years of experience come together in a whole new way where “satisfaction” is only an approximation of the feelings encountered.

Radio gives new abilities.


.
 
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Had some suddenly freed-up time on a Friday to get the Galaxy 99V2 into a shop, DTB Radio at Carlisle, PA.

The cards fell to the table in a straight flush. He was open, no other customers, and could do the work right then.

The 99 suddenly experienced a Receive, but no Transmit issue when I was at home. Got into truck one morning and nada. Went back into transport case two months ago until I got nearest a tech.

Had also been slightly off frequency.

Audio is improved (across a shop radio) and seems ready to re-install. The Lincoln II+ goes back into a transport case for now.

This 99 Version 2 has been the reference for any changes to the rest of the system for me. Easier for me to determine, Is it the Rig, or the Radio?, kind of questions. The Big Iron.

The 5’ Skipshooter also gets replaced by a 6” longer (5.5’) FRANCIS found gathering dust. Takes me to 14’ (where the trailer requires 13’5” clearance). (I need to order a pair of 6’ Skipshooters).

Hoping for the best. Had unassigned cash in pocket on payday (rarely happens), and the tech went thru the radio as if he’d been waiting for me to show. On top of a sudden itinerary change in travel plans. Sort of thing you can’t cause it to happen.

Had a late workday nap, now time to work past the usual bedtime to get it in. Difference between now and last time on truck Is a 19’ 6-AWG power cable versus a 36’ 10/2 Duplex cable. Addition of P-E Line Isolator at feedpoint + Coax Filter at radio.

Into a KL-203 — and the KL-7405V back home will replace it once there — have learned that the tall radio rack I’ve installed has easily-bent metal arms. So it’ll be easier to fit the barely too-wide 7405V into it.

Carlisle, PA is a major truck intersection for traffic into Philadelphia and NYC metro areas. Lots of locals, lots of VG radios, and a stellar place to ask for reports.

.
 
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