my new antenna will arrive soon, it will be maco 5/8. how do i use NOALOX with this antenna? someone recomended it for aluminum tubing a while ago on this forum but i can't fint it
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NOALOX
- Thread starter Robalo
- Start date
All you need to do is clean all the joints with steel wool and then smear some on all the joints when putting the antenna together and rub it in. it will keep the joint from oxidizing and have good metal to metal contack for a long time. also helps if you ever need to take antenna apart, parts come apart easyer.
Roger
Roger
That's right,just coat the pieces where they join.It works really well.I have had antennas up for years and when taken apart the aluminum is still shiny where the pieces mated.if you have ever had aluminum tubing seize together on you then you will learn quickly to love NOALOX.
I wouldn't use steel wool. No matter how careful you are, there will always be a few particles of steel left on the aluminum, and steel reacts with moisture to form?.....RUST! It might only be a little bit, but why have any at all?
Get one of those non-metallic kitchen scrubby pads. They're plenty coarse and abrasive, and they don't leave problematic particulates behind. Smear the NOALOX on within seconds (literally) of the cleaning; aluminum begins to oxidize even faster than that if exposed to the air, so the quicker you are, the better the job.
Get one of those non-metallic kitchen scrubby pads. They're plenty coarse and abrasive, and they don't leave problematic particulates behind. Smear the NOALOX on within seconds (literally) of the cleaning; aluminum begins to oxidize even faster than that if exposed to the air, so the quicker you are, the better the job.
Good idea Pat. I use one of those sanding sponges.It fits the contours well and you can almost wrap it around the tubing and it does a great job and fast too. Also there are no little loose strands of steel to dig out of your fingers after.
it was sunday hunt, 5 lowe's stores part # 56273 mounting pole 30' telescoping $ 44.83 + tax in CA. 8) thank you for your help gentlemen
Good info here folks!
For cleaning the aluminum, you want to use SCOTCH-BRITE PADS. No steel wool, NO SANDPAPER or equivalent!
You can get Scotch-Brite pads at your local grocery store or Home Depot in the paint section. Scotch-Brite pads are plastic and won't harm anything. Steel wool and sand is no bueno!
As far as coating the elements, use a THIN amount! You're not greasing wheel bearings, you are applying a "film" to the joints!
I use my fingers and work it in to the aluminum. The suspended zinc particles actually etch their way into the aluminum. Once the joint is together, wipe away any excess.
Another note, apply Noalox to ALL aluminum joints! This includes where the two halves of the ring mate; where the ring mates to the brackets; where the 45 degree bar mates to the main element; where the radial hub makes contact with the base tube; where the radials mate to the radial hub; AND all the joints!
Again, more is not better, its only messy! Use a light film when applying!
Lastly, I don't follow Maco's instructions for tuning this antenna. I make all my joints 6" on the main element and 4" on the radials. Then, I mount the antenna on a 10' pole and adjust ONLY THE TOP element. This is a pain, but better than tuning at section 2. Adjust the ring first, then find the dip in SWR. If the freq is below where you want it, adjust the top element in. Readjust the ring tap and check again. Keeping going back and forth until it's perfect where you want it!
Once the antenna is tuned, I mark the top element and THEN apply the Noalox. It's less messy this way. Your mileage may vary.
I have never failed to get a 1:1 tuning this antenna this way. Some people say they were never able to get less than a 1.3:1 or 1.5:1. They don't know what I know!
For cleaning the aluminum, you want to use SCOTCH-BRITE PADS. No steel wool, NO SANDPAPER or equivalent!
You can get Scotch-Brite pads at your local grocery store or Home Depot in the paint section. Scotch-Brite pads are plastic and won't harm anything. Steel wool and sand is no bueno!
As far as coating the elements, use a THIN amount! You're not greasing wheel bearings, you are applying a "film" to the joints!
I use my fingers and work it in to the aluminum. The suspended zinc particles actually etch their way into the aluminum. Once the joint is together, wipe away any excess.
Another note, apply Noalox to ALL aluminum joints! This includes where the two halves of the ring mate; where the ring mates to the brackets; where the 45 degree bar mates to the main element; where the radial hub makes contact with the base tube; where the radials mate to the radial hub; AND all the joints!
Again, more is not better, its only messy! Use a light film when applying!
Lastly, I don't follow Maco's instructions for tuning this antenna. I make all my joints 6" on the main element and 4" on the radials. Then, I mount the antenna on a 10' pole and adjust ONLY THE TOP element. This is a pain, but better than tuning at section 2. Adjust the ring first, then find the dip in SWR. If the freq is below where you want it, adjust the top element in. Readjust the ring tap and check again. Keeping going back and forth until it's perfect where you want it!
Once the antenna is tuned, I mark the top element and THEN apply the Noalox. It's less messy this way. Your mileage may vary.
I have never failed to get a 1:1 tuning this antenna this way. Some people say they were never able to get less than a 1.3:1 or 1.5:1. They don't know what I know!
If you are implying that Noalox will work with rusting steel, you are mistaken. The only advantage using Noalox with steel would be to eliminate the air preventing the steel from rusting any further.karo said:
Never ever ever ever use steel wool. I don't know why you would when other products are better suited in this application.
DXman
Yes, that's 3100 degrees F. Nine yrs of hard work.
I am in the process of cleaning my beam as of now and the Scotch-Brite pad is what I am using also. I am using the "extra fine" and tho it takes a little bite of "elbow grease" it sure makes a nice finish.Master Chief said:
I went to Home Depot today and got the Noalox after reading about it here. A "little dap will do ya", to much and the clamps won't hold very good.*
Been thinking about spraying a light coat of Krylon clear coat (this is for electrical applications) on the gamma match, what you guys think about doing this?
*5 yrs ago when I put the beam up, I used Dielectrical grease on the elements, so far none of them have been oxidized.
I like the idea of scotch brite pads better but I know of guys using steel wool for many many years and never had a problem with rust or corrosion.
Then again they cleaned the aluminum real good after the steel wool.
Roger
Then again they cleaned the aluminum real good after the steel wool.
Roger
One thing to remember is that all the aluminum is anodized which is a anti-oxidizing treatment like zinc coating on steel. You want to be careful on using any kind of abrasive or rubbing too hard on the alum., as you will remove the shinny coating from the alum. use a non abrasive alum cleaner on the alum, then use the noalox. Alum cleaner can be purchased at any auto parts store, such as "Eagle One" Wadding Polish or Mag/Chrome Alum Polish. Hoosier 789.
noalux
Ok, I give up, I still don't see the answer to roberto as to where to find it? I looked at my local wally world, I've been to every shop in town. I called all the distributors I know, and still can't find it. Help?!!
marven :roll:
P.S. I've been using silicone tape.
Ok, I give up, I still don't see the answer to roberto as to where to find it? I looked at my local wally world, I've been to every shop in town. I called all the distributors I know, and still can't find it. Help?!!
marven :roll:
P.S. I've been using silicone tape.
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