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RCI 2995DX no transmit power

How's the AM Regulator? Test the voltage (across to foil board ground at the TP7 OR TP8 (Driver and Final) got to make sure you didn't blow, a trace or a part, from the AM Regulator to the respective spots.

IF the driver or Finals are blown the ones bolted to the rear panel on the radio inside the case - it explains the no TX - but you need to make sure you can test and see power heading to the Driver and Final - their "center lead" leg to the board, is the Collector - which gets power from the Test Points - so a simple continuity check then a test run of power check in voltage-testing to them - have to verify the parts are working.

The thing has a 2-pill amp - how's the power supply and the amp doing?

The radio uses the TX signal (TX Light) to run a sense wire to a transistor on the amp board - to turn on and off a relay - so if you "have it hooked up" the relay should click on and off following what you're doing at the handset Key up Un-key moments - you should be able to hear the relay.
 
How's the AM Regulator? Test the voltage (across to foil board ground at the TP7 OR TP8 (Driver and Final) got to make sure you didn't blow, a trace or a part, from the AM Regulator to the respective spots.

IF the driver or Finals are blown the ones bolted to the rear panel on the radio inside the case - it explains the no TX - but you need to make sure you can test and see power heading to the Driver and Final - their "center lead" leg to the board, is the Collector - which gets power from the Test Points - so a simple continuity check then a test run of power check in voltage-testing to them - have to verify the parts are working.

The thing has a 2-pill amp - how's the power supply and the amp doing?

The radio uses the TX signal (TX Light) to run a sense wire to a transistor on the amp board - to turn on and off a relay - so if you "have it hooked up" the relay should click on and off following what you're doing at the handset Key up Un-key moments - you should be able to hear the relay.
new driver and final new mosfets for amp, nothing on voltage, no relay click
 
Get a TX on the LCD display?

No voltage usually means AM Regulator not working - need another - sort of thing. Blew open - but you'll have to check to make sure you can even get power to it. So again, a voltage check.
 
Get a TX on the LCD display?

No voltage usually means AM Regulator not working - need another - sort of thing. Blew open - but you'll have to check to make sure you can even get power to it. So again, a voltage check.
yes TX comes on but BUSY also stays on

B754 been replaced

but i will check it
 
Ok, then that means you have a bigger problem "Busy" usually tells the rest of us that it's "Out To Lunch" - or Out Of Lock - meaning it lost communication.

There are several threads in the forums about this condition - and the various ways to solve it. Many are unique to the "similar no power" situation- but each one has a different outcome.

The issue with the AM Regulator - now seems to have gone further - possible blown caps onto a blown driver or lost regulator voltage to drive it.

Hence, the many threads to help you solve this.

Using Phone or PC? I use PC so the upper right corner Search... and Magnifying glass is where I'd start...

There are too many to post here, just browse that list until you can find threads that apply - for as said before - the same similar condition has many different ways to solve it.
 
Ok, then that means you have a bigger problem "Busy" usually tells the rest of us that it's "Out To Lunch" - or Out Of Lock - meaning it lost communication.

There are several threads in the forums about this condition - and the various ways to solve it. Many are unique to the "similar no power" situation- but each one has a different outcome.

The issue with the AM Regulator - now seems to have gone further - possible blown caps onto a blown driver or lost regulator voltage to drive it.

Hence, the many threads to help you solve this.

Using Phone or PC? I use PC so the upper right corner Search... and Magnifying glass is where I'd start...

There are too many to post here, just browse that list until you can find threads that apply - for as said before - the same similar condition has many different ways to solve it.
ok thank you as for lack of test equipment i think its time
for a shop to check it out considering surface mount tech in the radio
 
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I inherited an RCI 2995Dx cf and it will not transmit on CB. I can transmit a carrier but no voice. Mike gain is up all the way. The mode is on AM. I can hear CBer's but put out a strong carrier, but no voice
 
I inherited an RCI 2995Dx cf and it will not transmit on CB. I can transmit a carrier but no voice. Mike gain is up all the way. The mode is on AM. I can hear CBer's but put out a strong carrier, but no voice
Have you tried another mic? A lot of these kind of problems are caused by mic issues, usually with either the switch, cable, or plug. Try a different mic and then let us know if it is still having problems.....

Is transmit without audio on both AM and sideband?
 
if the AM deadkey wattage seems very high, and the radio won't modulate, the AM regulator is probably blown.

its the big transistor bolted to the right side of the chassis in the back (Q66).
unsolder its legs from the PC board and check it using a transistor checker or a DVM.

if you find Q66 bad, you should also replace its companion part Q67, which is a surface mount part located right in front of Q66.

its very easy to screw the PC board up if you're not experienced in surface mount soldering, so finding someone who is and has the right equipment might be your best bet.

Typing that made me think of something that might help others who need CB work done but cant find a CB shop around to do the work.

there is probably a computer/cell phone repair place in your area and they will have the equipment to replace small surface mount parts.

you might try going in there with the radio, and showing them exactly which transistor you want to replace.
if you have the new part already and all they have to do is unsolder the old one and put a new one in, id bet they'd do it for you for a decent price.
LC
 
Q67 is a surface-mount power transistor. It's a pain to remove safely with no damage to foil traces. We use a workaround that bolts a plastic-body TO-220 style transistor to the heat sink and three wires connect to the pc board, taking the place of the failed surface-mount part altogether. I thought for sure I wrote it up here a few years ago, but my search for it failed. I had a kit listed on fleabay for this fix, but somehow it expired while I was looking the other way. I'll see what I can dig up on this item next time I'm at the shop.

73
 
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here ya go!


as always thank you to NomadRadio for these great tutorials!
LC
 

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