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Recommended 10 meter amplifier amperage...

T23

Active Member
Apr 17, 2010
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What would the recommended amperage be for a solid state 10 meter amplifier putting out 160 watts?

I just got the amp in I bought and connected it to my 19 amp 13.8 volt power supply and the supply cuts out when the amp is on high but works fine on the low setting which is 80 watts instead of 160.

T23
 

Figure on 10 watts per ampere drawn.

If running the radio on the same power supply as the amp - that might need to change. Either get a bigger supply (a 25 amp supply) and run them both off of the same supply; or run another, smaller supply just for the radio and the other for the amp.

Just sayin . . .
 
I think your absolute bare minimum would be 9.67A on lo and 19.32A on hi, and that is under absolutely ideal circumstances.
 
The amps efficiency is the key.

What amp is it? Do you know what class it is?

The higher the linearity, the more it will draw current and drop voltage.

I don't really know of any "10 Meter" amps, is it a CB amp?
 
A rough way to figure the amount of power required is to divide the maximum rated output by half the voltage. If that maximum output rating is given in 'Pep', then use a quarter of the applied voltage. That will give you a 'ball-park' estimate. Then you'd better try looking for the CCS rating of the power supply, NOT the advertised rating which is ICS. That ICS rating for power supplies is the 'surge' rating, not the Continuous Current Service rating. Seem like more than people usually say or think? Yep, sure is, but it's a method that works because of the exaggerations about max output of CB amplifiers.
- 'Doc

PS - Of course that "10 meter" amplifier business means it's a 'CB amplifier! there's no such thing as a "10 meter" amplifier. I only know of one 'small' company that ever had a 10 meter solidstate amplifier certified for USA sale, and I haven't heard of that company in quite a while. It was also 'junk', to put it nicely.
 
Rough quess would be, 160 X 2, divided by 13. Only 10 meter amp i know of is built by THP.
Rich
 
Ok, I guess we can all agree on the my supply needs to have a higher amperage...

This amp is a JAWS II 150, it looks like its about 30 years old, it has a pre amp, SSB\CW and AM/FM functions, it takes 2 watts deadkey to drive, I'll have some pics up later this evening, I am assuming its a solid state amp because of is size (about 5 inches wide and 7 inches long and 2 inches tall) and the fact it only needs 2 watts deadkey to drive... I got a watt meter so showing wattage average or PEP wattage is no problem.

My base is currently showing 2.5/2.7 watts deadkey, is this tolerable?

And no the amp is the only thing on the supply, my base has its own built in one.

T23
 
Chances are it's a 150 to 160 watt PEP amp. SOME of those old things could be driven to about 225 watts PEP, but they LIKED being run near 140-160 watts.

If you run it near 160 PEP, it's going to take every bit of 250 watts input.

Being that it's AM/FM, and NOT ssb, then you KNOW it's a Class C amp... SO, SSB will sound distorted. Don't be a usin it on 10, unless you plan on building a low pass filter for it, a bias network, and then don't be thinkin you're going to get massive amounts of power out of it.

2 to 2.5 watts carrier is about right for one of those old things, with 10-15 watts PEP being saturation. 20 watts in is where they REALLY get dirty.

OLD design. Treat it right, and it will last a bit. Otherwise, beat it up, and the cost of new transistors should be right up there with the cost of a used amp.


--Toll_Free
 
Two important questions. What type of transistors are in the amp and what type or model power supply do you have? Chances are that old amp runs something like a pair of MRF455's and I can't see this drawing more then 20 amps. Your power supply should be capable of running that amp especially since it is the only load on the supply and it's intermittent.

What is happening is that you are triggering the current limit protection on the power supply. The positive peaks of your audio are briefly causing the current to rise just above the point where this protection is set. If the supply has more then one potentiometer inside, one of them is most likely the voltage adjustment and the second is the current limit.

You can make this amp work with you power supply one of two ways. You can turn the voltage down so it draws less current but if it uses pass transistors, they may get hotter. You could also set the current limit just high enough so it runs the amp while checking the voltage. If it can't hold the voltage under load, you should set that lower. Don't get long winded and check the power supply to make sure it's not over heating.

Another thought I just had is you don't mention if this 80 watts on low is PEP with audio or if your meter is measuring average power. You may be overdriving the amp on high power. If the supply shuts down on high power without audio on AM, this is a sure sign the carrier is too high. I would only run this equipment together if the carrier were set between 25 to 40 watts assuming the 160 is a max PEP rating.
 
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Two important questions. What type of transistors are in the amp and what type or model power supply do you have? Chances are that old amp runs something like a pair of MRF455's and I can't see this drawing more then 20 amps. Your power supply should be capable of running that amp especially since it is the only load on the supply and it's intermittent.

What is happening is that you are triggering the current limit protection on the power supply. The positive peaks of your audio are briefly causing the current to rise just above the point where this protection is set. If the supply has more then one potentiometer inside, one of them is most likely the voltage adjustment and the second is the current limit.

You can make this amp work with you power supply one of two ways. You can turn the voltage down so it draws less current but if it uses pass transistors, they may get hotter. You could also set the current limit just high enough so it runs the amp while checking the voltage. If it can't hold the voltage under load, you should set that lower. Don't get long winded and check the power supply to make sure it's not over heating.

Another thought I just had is you don't mention if this 80 watts on low is PEP with audio or if your meter is measuring average power. You may be overdriving the amp on high power. If the supply shuts down on high power without audio on AM, this is a sure sign the carrier is too high. I would only run this equipment together if the carrier were set at or below 40 watts assuming the 160 is a PEP rating.

Could he cover the peaks with a battery inline? I've seen similar symptoms and favorable results in SSB mode doing this with a switching style power supply.
 
This amp does SSB, CW, FM and AM just to clear things up.

Oh and here's a pic.....enjoy.:laugh:


T23

 

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