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RETUBED PHANTOM ARCING

The tank coil and cap I was talking about is the larger one on the topside next to the tubes. In post 18 the first picture shows the cap meshed as would be expected and the second picture shows it set to minimum. Did it tune that much differently with the new tubes? A tube issue could cause this so unless you're certain I wouldn't go in there tinkering with the tank circuit. If you do be prepared to work your way though it if things go south.

Tallman said:
I think the tube in the lower left corner of the photo near the tuning cap is your bad tube.
The dark color is metal being deposited to glass by the arc. JMHO

20161116_152108-jpg.19596
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I wasn't sure if that was just getter material. Some tubes had it on the side and some on the top. I've saw the same manufacturer do it differently.
 
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With the original tubes in it and all tuned up, please get a picture of the TUNE control inside to show how meshed it is.
We want to focus on the topside one for now.
262NagantRadios's video mentions the single tube was part of the CW circuit...so maybe I was right after all....maybe.
 
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Tallman said:
Out of nine tubes only one is not like the others. "One of these things is not like the others. One of these things doesn't belong...." According to Sesame Street.
Sorry I could not resist.
Click to expand...

I had that happen. All NOS tubes of the same brand and one or two had the getter on top.Oddball 36kd6s though.

If you're going to parallel up a bucket of sweep tubes to make an RF amplifier you can't be too picky.:)
 
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543_Dallas said:
The tank coil and cap I was talking about is the larger one on the topside next to the tubes. In post 18 the first picture shows the cap meshed as would be expected and the second picture shows it set to minimum. Did it tune that much differently with the new tubes? A tube issue could cause this so unless you're certain I wouldn't go in there tinkering with the tank circuit. If you do be prepared to work your way though it if things go south.



I wasn't sure if that was just getter material. Some tubes had it on the side and some on the top. I've saw the same manufacturer do it differently.
Click to expand...
It tuned no different between the two sets of Tubes.
If it did it was negligible.
Max smoke left all four tuning knobs in the exact same place with both the d&a's and the replacements.
 
357 said:

I dropped the nos one I purchased in anyway. Both the new one and d&a are bright and with the new smaller single tube in, along with the 6lq6's (d&a's) it's operating as it did before and after the tube swap. I'm going to leave the new one in there for now.
With the original tubes in it and all tuned up, please get a picture of the TUNE control inside to show how meshed it is.
We want to focus on the topside one for now.
262NagantRadios's video mentions the single tube was part of the CW circuit...so maybe I was right after all....maybe.
Click to expand...

I'm going to take a picture of how they are meshed with it tuned for max smoke. I suspect the tuning plates will not be meshed correctly. I'm confident y'all help me gets this amp working well. I'm dreading having to ship it otherwise I'd rather have it done by Mike but I've this feeling it's gonna get thrashed. It Needs to get there and back, (and I can pack) dropping my odds to a point where if it's worth trying it y'all way. If not I'm going to have to take my chances with ups.

Just so everyone knows I haven't and won't use the amp after y'all excellent advice but it works the way it is and audio reports are excellent. I stopped using it since y'all pointed out this issue. if and when everything is right I'll use it. The last thing i wanna do is turn it into a paper weight. Thanks you all.
 
357 said:



With the original tubes in it and all tuned up, please get a picture of the TUNE control inside to show how meshed it is.
We want to focus on the topside one for now.
262NagantRadios's video mentions the single tube was part of the CW circuit...so maybe I was right after all....maybe.
Click to expand...

Ok. This things is a bitch to move then remove the cover. I tuned it up for max smoke and with a large lighted magnifying glass I could clearly see the the tune knob (capacitor?) closest to the meter ( is meshed or a better description would be un meshed.
It's exactly as it is in the photo. This is the previously posted pic cropped (replacement tubes). It's exactly now with the d&a's as it was then With the replacement tubes.. 20161202_183031.jpg if there's any difference it's negligible. This is the cropped pic of the drive capacitor and it like the replacements is in the same position with the d&a's (looking at it through a magnifying glass.)20161202_184938.jpg if it is important That photos be taken I will remove the cover and take them. I also noticed all four tuning knobs wound up in the same position with both sets of Tubes when max smoke was achieved. Thanks you y'all for your time.
 
Last edited:
ok you have to spread the top coil, each one just 1/8 inch, just a bit and test again, dont do the decouple thing when you do this and just quick key ups to see where it moved to.
you could leave the top off to quickly test and unplug to get it right.
Just take your time and discharge to coil after a couple minutes each time if you need a couple tries.
As long as you see its getting meshed your golden 1/3-1/4 way is plenty
just a piece of stiff cardboard or plywood on top and bottom till its dialed in.
 
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357 said:
ok you have to spread the top coil, each one just 1/8 inch, just a bit and test again, dont do the decouple thing when you do this and just quick key ups to see where it moved to.
you could leave the top off to quickly test and unplug to get it right.
Just take your time and discharge to coil after a couple minutes each time if you need a couple tries.
As long as you see its getting meshed your golden 1/3-1/4 way is plenty
just a piece of stiff cardboard or plywood on top and bottom till its dialed in.
Click to expand...
Very good. So just use a insulated screwdriver to separate each turn of the coil, correct?
Should I push the tip of the screwdriver down through each turn of the coil until each one separates as opposed to moving the screwdriver back and forth in a prying motion? Thanks so much. I should get to it on Sunday. I'll post the results.
 
Sonar said:
Very good. So just use a insulated screwdriver to separate each turn of the coil, correct?
Should I push the tip of the screwdriver down through each turn of the coil until each one separates as opposed to moving the screwdriver back and forth in a prying motion? Thanks so much. I should get to it on Sunday. I'll post the results.
Click to expand...
stick it in and twist, start on the outside ones
 
Tallman said:
Maybe just de-solder some of the coil?
20161129_163934-jpg.19600
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I think you added an image (which helps me tremendously) but I can't access it. I do see a bit of solder on the coil I'll be sepirating.20161203_195700.jpg I'd still like you to expand on your suggestion as there doesn't seem to be solder actually holding those coils together. Thanks
 

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