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RF shutting my truck down
- Thread starter Hitman 043
- Start date
Thats what I did today..."Check Engine Soon" light came on, so I took it over to Autozone so they could hook up their scanner, and the code came back as the Timing Sensor....So, I replaced it, and ran a ground strap from it to the frame, and every things perfect now!
3 or 4 weeks of pulling hair out, and it boiled down to a faulty Sensor! Course alternators not holding volts didn't help any either...It's bad enough to have one problem...But having two problems which either one by itself, can give you the same symptoms, is frustrating as all get out!:headbang
1500+ in a mobile, when sticking your head in a microwave oven just isn't good enough.
Sorry, I just don't see the point of running that much power in a mobile, it's a waste, and possibly dangerous.
Good luck brother, you're gonna need it.
Sorry, I just don't see the point of running that much power in a mobile, it's a waste, and possibly dangerous.
Good luck brother, you're gonna need it.
Running 1500 watts on HF is quite different then 1500 watts at microwave frequencies. HF frequencies pass through the body while energy into the GHz spectrum can cause RF heating of body tissue. Sure there will be cases with poor grounds where there are high levels of RF in the passenger compartment. However it is entirely possible to run 1500 watts on HF in the mobile safely.
Originally Posted by Shockwave
Running 1500 watts on HF is quite different then 1500 watts at microwave frequencies. HF frequencies pass through the body while energy into the GHz spectrum can cause RF heating of body tissue. Sure there will be cases with poor grounds where there are high levels of RF in the passenger compartment. However it is entirely possible to run 1500 watts on HF in the mobile safely.
Hope you are wearing lead lined clothing. Now this is taking place..
The Trucks ECU is droping out due to the ic clock geting a blast of hi rf powe
r. simple and it is in a GM TSB.. Look it up..
Running 1500 watts on HF is quite different then 1500 watts at microwave frequencies. HF frequencies pass through the body while energy into the GHz spectrum can cause RF heating of body tissue. Sure there will be cases with poor grounds where there are high levels of RF in the passenger compartment. However it is entirely possible to run 1500 watts on HF in the mobile safely.
Hope you are wearing lead lined clothing. Now this is taking place..
The Trucks ECU is droping out due to the ic clock geting a blast of hi rf powe
r. simple and it is in a GM TSB.. Look it up..Timing sensor? Do you mean the crankshaft position sensor or even camshaft position sensor? Another problem with the GM's is the battery connections, they get corroded between the two connectors on the positive side, and then they seem to loosen themselves after a while.
another zed supermember? you're correct in that there's no reason to run 1500 watts in a mobile-IF you're trying to talk to the trucker directly in front of you. otherwise, 8 transistors ain;t cutting it ;-)
hmmmmmm, while i'm at it.....read the tech class license manual, or even the arrl handbook. they BOTH state very good info regarding rf exposure. they both also SUGGEST that being inside a vehicle, UNDERNEATH a metal roof being used as the ground plane LOWERS exposure greatly. it is only a small percentage of the exposure as if you were standing in front of a directional antenna inside the beamwidth of the strongest signal. now they don't actually say that word for word, READ what they DO say & you'll see that is what is said. kinda like the 2nd amendment of rf exposure.
Sorry to burst the bubble, but it wasnt an O2 sensor causing your troubles. A bad ox sensor wont shut off an engine, just make it run rich. You can completely disconnect the sensors without problems other than a check engine light and rich condition. Keep looking.:bored:
Most problems that come from RF getting into something like a computer can be fixed with a little work.
I know for a fact that certain late model vehicles ever have filters etc available free right from Chevrolet or Ford etc. they will give them to you, just explain that you are police/fire/ems or have a business band radio and it is interfering with the electronics. Its their prerogative to help in certain situations because emergency vehicles rely on such transmitters. they wouldn't want to lose government po's.
On another note you probably fix this yourself with some small #43 ferrite cores. Think 1/4" ID 1/2"OD.
I would disconnect the battery, un hook the sensor/component leads off the parts that goto the distributor, crank positioning sensor, fuel pump relays, throttle position, and power lead to body computer and engine computer. label them as to which is which and slice the connectors off you have a loose pigtail. Get some appropriate wire, solder, heatshrink and extend the leads and then wrap then individually on ferrite cores. If I remember, an 18 awg wire give 5uh per turn so 4 or more turns should do it. Bring it back to the truck, resolder and heatshink and you're done. For stubborn ones like the main power lead to the ECU you can also put a .01uf 3kv cap to ground.
It sounds like alot of work but its really not. I did all the above to 99 suburban that had 20kw on board. took about 2 hours.
Also just make sure the vehicle body really is grounded. this is much easier on trucks/cars that feature a frame. I have been amazed at how few bonds there really are in factory vehicles.
The clamp on snap beads of ferrite don't do anything. with being clamped on without any wraps you cant reach a high enough value to be effective at 27mhz.
I know for a fact that certain late model vehicles ever have filters etc available free right from Chevrolet or Ford etc. they will give them to you, just explain that you are police/fire/ems or have a business band radio and it is interfering with the electronics. Its their prerogative to help in certain situations because emergency vehicles rely on such transmitters. they wouldn't want to lose government po's.
On another note you probably fix this yourself with some small #43 ferrite cores. Think 1/4" ID 1/2"OD.
I would disconnect the battery, un hook the sensor/component leads off the parts that goto the distributor, crank positioning sensor, fuel pump relays, throttle position, and power lead to body computer and engine computer. label them as to which is which and slice the connectors off you have a loose pigtail. Get some appropriate wire, solder, heatshrink and extend the leads and then wrap then individually on ferrite cores. If I remember, an 18 awg wire give 5uh per turn so 4 or more turns should do it. Bring it back to the truck, resolder and heatshink and you're done. For stubborn ones like the main power lead to the ECU you can also put a .01uf 3kv cap to ground.
It sounds like alot of work but its really not. I did all the above to 99 suburban that had 20kw on board. took about 2 hours.
Also just make sure the vehicle body really is grounded. this is much easier on trucks/cars that feature a frame. I have been amazed at how few bonds there really are in factory vehicles.
The clamp on snap beads of ferrite don't do anything. with being clamped on without any wraps you cant reach a high enough value to be effective at 27mhz.
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