Try some expanded metal. It's got more surface area. Can be put up in small sections. Stiff not flimsy.Okay. There’s something to it.
But . . . I don’t want take that much ADVIL.
Thirty years is just that. (Now, where are those grandsons).
Thx
.
Try some expanded metal. It's got more surface area. Can be put up in small sections. Stiff not flimsy.Okay. There’s something to it.
But . . . I don’t want take that much ADVIL.
Thirty years is just that. (Now, where are those grandsons).
Thx
.
Try some expanded metal. It's got more surface area. Can be put up in small sections. Stiff not flimsy.
Thanks. A shorter antenna was the idea. The -27 a placeholder. I’ll keep what you’ve got as the reference.You'll be disappointed with the Larsen NMO-27. I run a Larsen NMO for 10/11 meters, but I use The NMO-30 coil, 3 inch spring and W640 whip. The whip is 64", but will cut down a good bit. Much better performance over the NMO-27 and has better bandwidth.
The chassis punch is a really smart idea...and one I’m not sure I’ve read before.
At first I thought why...as step drills and hole saws are so common.
But...one of the biggest issues with a roof mount (especially on a new-ish vehicle) is controlling all the metal shavings, which find a way into every crack and crevice only to rust in short order, and destroy the clear coat and paint.
Chassis punch gets around all that, and at the end of the day is worth every penny.
I like it.
I have a NMO-27. I like the looks of it. It was very finicky to tune. I read where many others had similar issues. Of course, both iterations are limited to 200 watts.