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Texas Star 667 install

B

bigred222

Key Up City Radio
Aug 28, 2006
1,155
53
58
34
Stamford, CT
www.cbjunk.com
Ok so I finally bought a TexasStar 667. I need some help with the installation. I know the alternator on my 98' Audi A4 is not very strong, so I have planned on putting an extra battery in my trunk. I am also planning on putting the amp in the trunk as well. I would also like to know about how to go about making a complete remote for the amp as well to control all functions remotely.
I want to know where I can get those female 1/4 inch jacks to put on the Texas star chassis and make a remote box to be within reach while in the driver seat.
so i need help with tips on hookup , wire gauges and where I can get a good voltage gauge to also mount to the remote box.I also got the amplifier in my 95T disconnected and had it adjusted to a 2 watt deadkey with plenty of forward modulation.
 

Hey their local! Sorry to tell you the power switch and all other switches on the front of that box carry RF. It will be no easy task to modify the inside of the amp to work with normal remote switches. You would have to replace the on board switches with relays first. If you must remote the amp, I suggest you set the switches where you want them and simply use a solenoid to turn the main DC feed on and off. Just be sure to get one rated for continuous use and at least 60 amps. Preferably more.
 
You'll probably need a solenoid because most switches won't support the current the amplifier will draw. Much easier to find relays, contractors, and solenoids fitting this spec. I'd go overkill with the wire and use #4 with 80 amp fuses located at BOTH ends of the hot wire coming from the front battery to the back battery. That way if the wire ever gets shorted in between, both fuses will blow and isolate you from the short while saving the car.
 
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T.S 667

i would just try it first on your stock battery and alt first and see what it will do maybe you will just get a little head light dim but try it with your ac and head lights on so you have a full load on your alt at time of key down you might just need a bigger car battery and not a bigger alt if your lucky i run a 4 pill in my car and it does fine on the stock alt i just use a bigger battery tho
 
You could probably get away without the second battery but since the amp is going in the trunk, most of the wiring is already done. Having the second battery right next to the amp will reduce voltage drop in the wires.
 
If you guys think I can really get away without the use of a second battery I will just melted in my passenger compartment and forget about putting anything in the trunk it would make everything a lot easier but I will give it a shot and when I get home from my vacation I will take pictures and post them up of how everything goes and take a video of the only reason I suggested getting another battery is because the only reason I suggested getting another battery is because I have a DX 95 TV and it by itself with drawdown my alternator on my vehicle at idle and that was the only reason I worried about needing a second battery.
Thanks everyone for the input
-BigRed
 
Some good advice so far. Just some thoughts.

1) The 667 is a low drive amp. 1-1.75 watt carrier and 12-18 watts PEP in.

2) #4 wire, good grounds, Anderson quick disconnect, fuse at each end.

3) At least a 130 amp alternator and a good battery.

4) The whole remote idea is not ideal with a 667, if you must have a remote get something like this.

TNT T800
 
Put a fan on it....Put two fans on it in fact.
The 667 with that built in driver is a beast and will run hot on long keydowns, so a fan will be a good friend.....keep fresh air moving across the heat sink.


73
Jeff
 
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I hope it all works out well. I'm not looking to get my name called on 6, just hoping to be heard a lot more on AM when skip rolls around and on .385 and .555. Hopefully there will be a significant difference from just running my 95T by itself.
-BigRed
 

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