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The Havana Taxicab is for sale. Ugly Pride KW-one now a DX300

nomadradio

Analog Retentive
Apr 3, 2005
7,008
11,208
698
Louisville, KY
www.nomadradio.com
The "Havana Taxicab" is for sale.

It started out life as a Pride KW-One amplifier.

lmMECH.jpg


Then it got trashed. Seems to be what always happens to that model.

The name reflects how many of the original-type main parts remain in it. The cabinet, the meter, the Plate-Tune control, the tube socket and the coax sockets. I may have missed a part or two, but that's the big picture. We rebuilt it as a DX-300 model. Mainly it served to show that substitute parts can be made to take the place of transformers that you can't buy any more, or would pay an arm and a leg to have made custom.

pEonDD.jpg


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Naturally, it has our printed-circuit boards in the power supply. The blower is an obvious substitute. The center hub protrudes, and makes necessary the ugly hole in the rear of the top cover.

yzyl5P.jpg


RF Parts Inc still sells new top covers. Twenty-five bucks plus shipping. Just remember you'll have to make your own, new ugly hole in the rear to provide clearance for the blower hub. They will sell it to you for the same price they sell it to me, so there's just no incentive for me to buy one.

NO SIDEBAND SWITCH! Bad idea, anyway. DOES HAVE A HARD-KEY JACK! To use it on SSB, a foot switch will prevent the relay chatter.

*** Better yet ***. Install a relay in the radio, and key it with a RCA patch cord between the radio and the amplifier. That way, the amplifier stays keyed so long as the mike switch is closed. Releases as soon as you unkey the mike. No delay to cut off the other station's first word when he replies.

The screws that hold the bottom cover in place are famous for stripping the holes. Sheet-metal screws are not meant to remove and put back repeatedly. Machine-thread screws now hold the lower cover in place. These machine-thread inserts are made of aluminum, so you have to be nice to them. So long as you don't cross-thread and crank them, they will last a long time.

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The "Band" knob in the center is now the bias control. You can reduce the amplifier's carrier level to match a radio that does not have that knob on it. Max AM carrier out of this thing should NEVER exceed 150 Watts. Sweet spot is closer to 125 Watt carrier.

No preamp.

No wattmeter. Only reads plate current.

Low drive. A wimpy stock Cobra 2000 with 14 Watts PEP should still get you a proper 500 Watts pep on High side. A radio with 18 Watts PEP should get you up to the 600 Watt PEP level.

ANY MORE DRIVE THAN THAT WILL BLOW IT UP.

HONEST!

It will come with a tested, spare used tube. That way you can ignore my warnings about driving it too hard, and have a spare tube to use after you come to your senses and find out that I'M NOT MAKING THIS STUFF UP!

Six hundred bucks. Plus six percent KY sales tax.

But here's the kicker:

LOCAL PICKUP ONLY.

And one other small requirement.

BRING YOUR RADIO AND YOUR WATTMETER!!!!!

This is the only way I have found to eliminate gripes after the sale. If your radio is too big for it, I'll get to see this myself. And if your wattmeter shows a different reading from mine, YOU'LL get a chance to see that.

YES, THESE ARE SOME PRETTY RESTRICTIVE REQUIREMENTS.

MIGHT NOT SELL ANY TIME SOON WITH THOSE RESTRICTIONS ATTACHED.

Tough.

If I were in a hurry, it would go on Ebay. Might not. Probably too risky, anyway.

It is currently listed at Craigslist, but I'm not getting any nibbles there, yet.

Yes it's ugly. Made no attempt to pretty it up.

But I'm not in a hurry. Just don't need it any more. Served its purpose. Time it got a new home.

And, uh, NO! I won't ship it to you.

73
 

nomad I sent you a pm on grumpy's forum I like to get two of the v-power board can you pm me back thanks
 
Hi Grimace,

I appreciate your patience and good humor about getting your hands on this toy. It's starting to sound like waiting for NASA to send people to Mars.

Always "soon", but never "now".

I posted an open letter to all the folks that have been waiting.

For way too long.

http://www.worldwidedx.com/threads/...kits-real-soon-now-we-always-say-that.221170/

I should probably post it on Grumpy's forum, too. Haven't visited there in a while. More irons in the fire than I can safely juggle, so to speak.

I will reach out for your contact info when we have them packed and ready for address labels.

Thanks for the patience and 73,
Chris
 
I get one for the mark 3 and was very happy with it. I like to do the tram and mark 4 keep up the good work and thanks for the reply
 
hello i have the pride kw 1 and i overdriven mine and now it produces no power can any body in this forum lead to the right thing on board that was blown i changed the tube to brand new no power no drive getting to amp total dead short on input everything going in coming back as reflect on bird please send pic of part on board that has likey blown remember the kw has a different boards than dx300 HAM OPERATOR KC3PHV would be very thankful
 
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First, I should admit that for every few hundred DX300 models we have seen here the last 45 years we see only one or two KW-one amplifiers. Mostly they are burned to a crisp by the time we see them, and all but one has gotten converted to a DX300 before it went back to its owner. The damage is usually that bad.

The last time we actually fixed a KW-one amplifier was about 20 years ago. It was in decent condition, and repairing it was not a big deal.

The high SWR you're seeing on the input leads me to first ask how much excess drive power was there? Might be nice to know if your infinite SWR is showing an open circuit?

Or a short circuit?

Either one will cause the high reflected power reading on the input.

But knowing whether you need to find a short or a broken circuit is what I would do next.

Simply following the signal path the drive power follows with a 'scope or a RF volt meter is what I would probably do next.

But if you don't have those tools this suggestion is worthless.

Looking at the schematic the list of suspects is pretty short. The radio's power goes directly from the relay to the dummy-load string of resistors. Even with the tube removed from the amplifier you should show a low SWR feeding into the amplifier when it's keyed.

But this brings us back to the "high SWR reading" question. Are we looking for a short circuit?

Or an open circuit? Either one will cause a high SWR on the input.

The relay, the circuit-board foil traces those input resistors and the disc capacitor that goes to ground at the hot end of the resistor string are all I see. The diagram is smeared on that capacitor in my copy, and that capacitor to ground looks like "15 1KV". Might mean 15 pf, not really sure. If it were to short out, that would cause what you're seeing.

Kinda like telling your mechanic "my car won't start". Probably has just one cause, but which one?

73
 
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