Ah, sorry, writing an essay for the College Finals Exam and the Tutor that's supposed to proof read, goes on vacation...SIGH.. I putting my life story here, so thank you for being kind too!
Yes, for the Finals - since I've been away from a Bench and knowing the Anytone has seen several revisions. I don't want to make an unexpected left turn - when we should have gone straight... I get ahead of myself I'm trying to condense a "Cliff-notes" manual into one post - not easy...
The radio will still consume the same amount of power (as you adjust) in SSB mode, you can even verify this on another radio for testing your faith in this method. All you are doing is changing the location of the Ammeter to the main power feed. Since it uses full rail in SSB mode, this is the 2nd best way and what many of my techs at the shop did for the work they performed. Set up a bench, one voltmeter - one ammeter and used both for their main go-to - so I'm just passing that along to you.
Disconnecting the jumpers is the safest way to go, then all you have is a roughly 300mW transmitter sitting idle - won't take more than 2 amps, more lucky to take 1 amp.
Disconnected jumpers turn off a lot of the TX section of the radio - so as long as you can keep the meter from blowing it's internal; fuse by setting it to the 20A setting for the TX then once Keyed and all parts are now stable in TX mode, you can safely switch to 2A setting and adjust the mA adding 55 to the displayed number (If your meter has mA great, but be careful, you are on a mail power feed rail - it can blow that meters' fuse.
Ok, Back to those Finals...I wanted you to reset the pot, but in some radios Anytone or otherwise, the Pot may not have a "stop" - this usually indicated the owner has had work done to it. (Bearcat 980 is prone to this) I mean, The pot can rotate freely, adding to your reset problems - and is how many of these radios wind up in the shop - the owners over torqued the pots and now they spin. They can still work, just not reliable for knowing your "ground zero" starting point.
You only check the Gates if you don't know if you have found your "ground Zero" starting point on the pot - if the pot spins - you have lost the main reference - you'll have to find a point in it's rotation to start over. The pot itself should let you pre-set the Gate voltage to 2 volts ...
(or lower than 3 - find it's low spot and note the rotation so you don't "over" turn it to suddenly feed it 6 volts turning it on)
- just remember which direction you have to turn the pot to turn it DOWN to get to 2 volts, and the direction to turn it up. For if you don't, you can overvolt the gate, latching the Final and kill the final quicker than you can locate "ground zero" to turn it off and start over.
If the pot stops, then usually CCW is the low position - you turn up (Clockwise) from there and watch the Ammeter rise - slowly...easy... 22mA up to 30mA ok...to "
boing" "55 to 75" - then you found that brands particular "latch on" point.
Trying to set the voltage or using the scope methods may work to a degree, but when it in Alaska, you may have raw ore to work with in that Tundra, but the Tech to do the work is several Area Codes away...
The mA reading takes precedence (JMO) because of it's accuracy is better, verifiable and presently the best way to set that gate threshold for every MOSFET I've come across - is like an individual - each one has a unique fingerprint of operation - even in the same batch.