They are not .47pF, they are 47pF. The factory schematic shows C80 and C81 as 39-68pF, which makes sense as under a half a pF of tank would be impractical.
There are large SMD parts like 2512's, but I think a compromise between being able to work with them and being able to easily fit them would be 1206.
A fine soldering iron tip, good magnifying glasses and .015" solder is the way to go. This little helper is how I got started soldering SMD parts.

edit: and pick up a roll of MG chemicals #453 fine solder wick. If you goof and have to try again, that little helper tool is useless with a blob of solder under the part. They will go on all crooked and not flush with the board. Always start with bare tinned pads.
edit 2: And if you are like me and keep your fingernails trimmed short, it helps to leave the nail on your index finger a little longer. That magnetic helper isn't always possible to use so you will find yourself trying to hold them down with your fingernail while tacking one side. A little fingernail there keeps you from getting burned.
There are large SMD parts like 2512's, but I think a compromise between being able to work with them and being able to easily fit them would be 1206.
A fine soldering iron tip, good magnifying glasses and .015" solder is the way to go. This little helper is how I got started soldering SMD parts.

edit: and pick up a roll of MG chemicals #453 fine solder wick. If you goof and have to try again, that little helper tool is useless with a blob of solder under the part. They will go on all crooked and not flush with the board. Always start with bare tinned pads.
edit 2: And if you are like me and keep your fingernails trimmed short, it helps to leave the nail on your index finger a little longer. That magnetic helper isn't always possible to use so you will find yourself trying to hold them down with your fingernail while tacking one side. A little fingernail there keeps you from getting burned.
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