Sidebar Sidebar
  • You can now help support WorldwideDX when you shop on Amazon at no additional cost to you! Simply follow this Shop on Amazon link first and a portion of any purchase is sent to WorldwideDX to help with site costs.

What do you guys think of RM?


I hear there good for the money, talk to Justin before you buy one. I hear he can improve them and set um up good for ya.

Also check out HY electronics, there shipping is much cheaper. :)

AP
 
there not a good deal for the money, you see about half of what the numbers say. a good deal is a heathkit sb 220. do a kilowatt + easy for under $400 with freight from ebay. an ameritron 811 with some 572b tubes in place can do 750+ squeeky clean for under $400 as well.
 
Wow, Where can I get one of the Ameritron 811 tube amps for less than 400 bucks in great condition? I find them for 600+ bucks.

If there that cheap then yes there better bang for the buck than the RM stuff.

How do you mod them though?

AP
 
you gotta keep an eye on ebay. wizaed had one for $375 here about a month ago that he ended up putting on ebay. even if you find one with origional 811 tubes (or retubed) its still 450 watts am or so on 10/11 meter. ideally you want to find one where they threw in 572b tubes. cooler, lower voltage and more power. as far as the conversion goes i believe thery are like the rest of the ameritrons. there should be a green wire to ground on the band switch. clip that and the aux position is 10 meter (or cb if you need)

if you are finding them used for 600 your really looking in the wrong place. aes has them for $619.99 brand new

as far as the klv's go they disable them in a few ways. in some of the smaller units the so239 connector ( the coax out) is unsoldered so you need to reattach it. others have a part or 2 uninstalled. keep in mind the klv's dont seem to be a very durriable amp, the 1000 high drive is good but the low drive likes to kill tubes. if you pick up an old sb 220 or 220 or any old tuber for that matter keep an eye on the caps and other misc parts. they can dry up and short out over time.
 
only problem is they are mobile amps. for what you pay for a texas star you can get an equivelent xforce or dave made for less and you get more power out as long as class c is alright, you can have them biased for ab with sideband for a few bucks more.
 
Guys at the quack shack seem to have them for a reasonable price . . . but I know what you mean - 667v plus an 80 amp power supply comes in around $700. That's why I was originally looking at RM - seemed a bit cheaper but not all that much. Maybe $50 or so all told.
 
ya its expensive any way you look at it, when i ran a 667v in the house i used a 50 amp power supply and the amp ran outta juice before the power supply did. if i rember right i got pretty close to 600 watts am with it, about 580 or so. the problem is the driver stage, they wont take much for drive and you cant volt them so you can run outta steam. good news is there is really no difference between 400 and 600 watts so you dont need to push them to much.
 
I'll be running a 2547 and I guess I'll just turn down the power.

Guys are telling me I need an 80 amp power supply though - you didn't trip the 50?
 
i didnt when i ran it. your not gunna see over 600 watts with it so you dont need to big of a power supply. Pyramid PS-52KX was what i had. consider the cost though, you could run a smaller 400 watt linier and it would do the same as the 667 would. you would need to go to 800 watts to see any gain over the 400 watt. save a little on your wallet and go that route. to be perfectly honest it looks like am power has a 2 transistor 2290 amp for $129, get that and a smaller 35 amp or so power supply and you will be doing just fine, its more than you need and very cheap to do, if you pick up the power supply on ebay its very possiable you could have less than $200 into it. its where i have found to show the most gain per dollar. as a matter of fact i do not run anything larger than a 2 transistor amp. now if you really need more power a single 2290 driving 2 2879's is a faily cheap way to get over 400 watts.
 
Not all 50-Amp rated power supplies are created equal.

Not every 667V behaves in an identical way, either.

One unit that draws just under the supply's current limit appears to just cruise, problem-free.

If another unit from a year before, (or later) should draw just ten percent more than that, the same power supply will now appear to "stumble" on peaks, causing the output voltage to fall. A small margin can make a difference that looks pretty large.

Ten percent difference from one production run to the next is not unusual for the same model, especially one that's been in production as long as the 667 has. From year to year they have continued to "tweak" the design, changing transformer ratios, and the value of resistor and capacitor values.

They're a whole lot more alike than two Chevy Impalas made ten years apart.

A power supply that's too large is nearly always a better idea than a power supply that's hair-close to the limit.

73
 
I was thinking of going with the bigger box and not running it wide open; crank it back a bit.

But it seems like good practice to have everything set up for knobs turned all the way to the right.

The 400 idea sounds interesting though; using the more effective power level means fewer watts to potentially cause problems with someone's TV.
 
$600 is a lot, but it does have way over $200 in Harbach mods not including shipping or labor (if you can't do it yourself). In addition it has a $300 plus shipping set of tubes from RF Parts (although it seems they are 1 year old).

Looks to me like you are getting a fair deal for $600+ shipping if the seller is legit in his claims. Fair, not great. $400 for that amp would be a steal. I would never let it go for that.
 

dxChat
Help Users
  • No one is chatting at the moment.


      Top Bottom
      Back