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What electronics have YOU fixed lately?

I gotcha now. Yeah... I always have to replace ppls cord ends cause they burn and melt. I would say most receptacles are toast in the service boxes.
 
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I started to fix this BS but decided it wasn’t worth my time or efforts, to the parts bin she went. That friggin’ glue crap ruins many a good radio if not got out before it gets out of hand. After replacing stuff in the PLL area, I noticed many other areas very corroded and just said, well you know.

So I took out the expo kit that came in it and the rest will be used for whatever good it can be.

5538CFBE-62B4-449E-9956-DA532BFBFBB4.jpeg 35648A53-1D59-4F40-90D8-246197EE1C0A.jpeg 8AAB8F60-B9CD-427E-A9BC-385452A70587.jpeg
 
Damn Chop... good one there. I have 2 - 2510s that look similar. Gonna give it my college try before condemning. If no go, hopefully recoup by parting out on the bay maybe..?
 
I’ve never seen one this bad before. Many areas in this thing looks like you dumped a car battery out in it, lots of corrosion if you inspect closely.

The 10.240 was about to lose a leg. The 8719 did lose one, almost 2. A few jumpers were toast. And many more I started pulling to check the condition of, the legs just fell off. So I just said “screw you guys I’m going home” and tossed it in the parts bin. I have 4 already, not a big deal to lose one I don’t guess, oh it’s a 148GTL if you don’t recognize it.

Oddly I have one that has NO glue in it at all, just a lot of wax. They should’ve stuck with that, least the wax doesn’t eat legs off components.
 
I also have a Philly 148 that has glue. The glue looks like it has never seen heat or any signs of eating stuff up. Still a nice yellow mustard color. Unreal how "virgin" that radios is.

And yes... I will remove said glue when I can get around to it.
 
other thing to watch is type of led and color temp.
ones with a square emitting surface dont work well with the lenses.
and color temp.
most i have seen are 6500-7500 kelvin.
ones from a led bulb are most commonly 2700-3000k.
while your bulb salvaged leds may "work" you will have bright spots and discolored areas if you get the wrong leds.
i have seen 3,6,and 9 volt leds in tv's as well as led bulbs.
The only thing you have to watch out for here is that more of the 120 volt LED light bulbs are using LED chips that have two elements in series on the same chip and drop over 6 volts. The constant current power supply that drives them in the TV is smart and will detect the change, going into fault mode. To avoid the possibility of taking apart the wrong light bulb, you could buy a 12 volt LED light bulb with an Edison base sold in marine electronics stores or on eBay. The reason to look for one with an Edison base is they are larger than most of the automotive 12 volt bulbs and are likely to have the right size chip inside.

They are surface soldered to an aluminum backing plate for heat transfer. Removing and installing chips should be done with a heat gun but a small torch can be used to heat the underside if you're careful to not overheat it. Clean and re-tin the solder pads on the top of the metal strip or plate. Carefully position the replacement LED over the solder pads in the right polarity and heat the underside until the tinned solder under it melts and the chip drops flat on the metal strip. Some TV's like Sharp are smart enough to remember the fault after the repair and will not start until you force them into service mode and clear the fault. Google that procedure for your model.
 
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I have been prepping a 2003 Camry for body work, new fender, rusted rocker repair, and prep for paint. Did replace the fuel filter in the tank and replaced the valve cover seal.

Trying to figure out why a 1995 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 with 235K miles is running a bit rough and slowly making repairs.

Built two rifles but have not finished making the stocks for them.

Remodeling my basement for my one son and trying to get rid of all mold and solve water incursion issues.

Fixing up garage.

Building a new work bench and a new desk for radio's room from recycled materials .

Repaired a Toyota ECM 2 new caps, cold soldier joint issue to connector and corroded pins. replaced bearing in a 1995.5 Tacoma alternator.

Recapped and modified 3 server power supplies for hobby use. Not as pretty as Robb's! His power supply mod has got to be the "Gold Standard!"!!!

Recapped my Dad's Reel to Reel from 1979 Wiesbaden West Germany in 1979 it was "West Germany"....LOL That thing has more caps than President Jimmy Carter has liver pills! Pioneer model that replaced his AIWA that failed under warranty. I need to go through his 2 amp's one is a TEAC the other a Keenwood both from late 1970's early 1980's. Rebuilt one Bose 501 Series 3 for him from same time frame the other is still rocking hard. I have to say these survived him and me as a teenager. Everything was still working but you could hear noise from caps drying out and sound was getting harsher. All of the gear came with fold out schematics and while it is not a service manual it is still handy! I think the amps have service manuals from the factory. Oh the good old days. Oh and parts lists!

I had to ask around online about proper bias settings for a few items. So far people have had the knowledge and shared it!

I tore a rotator cuff so I am out of work and short on money but lots of time! I am self employed so no work no money! The surgeons say that it is not bad enough to warranty surgery even though 2 tendons are torn rather deeply and I can barely lift a 10lbs dumbell over head or work more than 2-3 minutes before that shoulder cramps up and stops working. Since my work is rather physical that is an issue and it is also largely upper body dependant.

I rebuilt my old 1980's Kenmore Dryer I need to figure out why only the Cotton setting works on the dryer but it is as smooth and quite as can be and works great other than only having a single heat setting.

So I have been busy as hell while not on WorldWideDX!!! I am going to be building 2 more trumpets for clinets as well!
 
Pace 8193 on my bench right now. Deaf as a stone. Didn't even register input signal. Traced it to the T/R relay, a receive only voltage wasn't making it through.

Pulled said relay and checked resistance out of circuit for NC contacts, they were open. Looked like they were making physical contact, though.

Hmmmm......

Found I could open the top of the relay. Grabbed Deoxit, gave relay a squirt and worked the contacts back and forth for minute. Recheck resistance, and the NC terminals are making contact! Back into the radio she goes!

Fired it up and I can now see received signal strength. Still no audio, but one link in the chain has been reattached.

Still going to order a new relay, though. Deoxit may only be a temp fix, and I don't want to have to troubleshoot it again next time I can work on it and I've forgotten what fixed it this time.
 
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This is my latest project. Bought this radio plus the mic for less than a C note. Did a full recap on the radio with a couple minor cap changes to open up the audio bandwidth a bit. I was chatting to a buddy and had a guy in DX holler at me, said I had FM broadcaster quality audio. Apparently, he had an SDR setup, and was running an Icom 7300 (is that right? Icom did make a 7300?) and he said my radio sounded amazing... didn't believe I was on a CB until I sent him a video of our conversation. It's been a great radio.


~Cheers~
 
Just repaired an old Royce 1-640 for a fellow. 23 channel with SSB ......
He also wanted the upper CB band channels so he could talk to his buddies on 36, 37, and 38 .....
I changed the master receive/transmit crystal, aligned and he is good to go.
I replaced the crystal for channels 1 - 4 to give him the four upper channels.
Gave it back to him yesterday and he called me to say it is working great and he is a very happy camper .........
 
It's been a great radio.
They usually are . More than a few of us have the affliction :)
Did you also replace C179? (before it detonated?)
I used a Turner SS on mine for years. Never did wire a +2 for it , seems odd since I have three of them .

Had to rebuild the supply about a few decades ago (give or take) and may yet yard it out for a switcher.
 
Yep, I replaced C179, it was still original and intact, amazingly enough. I also removed the input/output wires going to/from the little NB board, and replaced them with shielded wiring, and my noise level went down about another half an "S" unit. Super quiet RX until I get actual RX audio.

The Turner +2 is THE mic for me... it matches up to my voice extremely well. I want to get a couple more down the road for other radios. For now, though, my modified D104's do a pretty good job of matching up with my voice until I can get more +2's.


~Cheers~
 
my d and a pdx 400 recently quit keying for me,,, so today i got my grandson to help me set it on my work table,,, figured out the input relay was not contacting good, so some cleaning and running a contact cleaning paper thru with contact cleaner and it is back up and running,,,, grandson helped me set it back in line and we happy now,,,,,,,,
 

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