• You can now help support WorldwideDX when you shop on Amazon at no additional cost to you! Simply follow this Shop on Amazon link first and a portion of any purchase is sent to WorldwideDX to help with site costs.

Running wires thru firewall 2017 f150


Ok guys going to install my quad 5 this week. just need some advice on how to get the wires from the battery thru the firewall...

Thanks in advance..
Usually what I do is go through the same grommet that the hood latch cable goes through. Straighten out a section of coat hanger and make a small hook on the end and smash it closed. Now pry it open enough to hook the end of the wires. Strip about 4 inches off the wires and put them in the hook and smash the hook flat. Carefully pierce the grommet from the inside pointing slightly upward and push it in a few inches. Look under the hood to see where it is going and carefully pull it through. Fuse the positive at the battery. What size wire are you going to run? I would run 12 awg if you have it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: undertaker
I would also go to the relay fuse box under the hood instead of the battery terminal. The battery itself is bad as far as corrosion goes. Small wires won't last long. The relay fuse box has a big stud where the power comes in from the battery. This is where I connect. The ground I use is the body ground stud that connects to the battery. Hope this helps.
 
I use a coat hanger, but a slightly different method. I solder the wire directly to a straight coat hanger instead of using a hook. After the wire is soldered to the hanger I deburr or shape the connection with my Dremel. It's a little extra work, but allows for a much easier passage through the grommet without the possibility of losing my connection.
 
The floor plug will work if you want to pull up the carpet I guess. The hood latch boot is easy and nothing has to be taken apart to get to it. This was the spot we used when I worked for Bell Atlantic installing car phones. What ever is easiest will work as long as the wire can be routed safely away from sharp or moving or hot items. If I need to run bigger wires, I will use the blanking plate where the clutch mechanism would have been. I don't think many new vehicles have a standard trans option now days so this may not work. For car stereo installations that sometimes require multiple runs of 2/0 cable, drilling holes in the firewall is unavoidable. With any drilled hole it of course needs a grommet.
Chris
 
  • Like
Reactions: hotrod
Dude, no need to go through the firewall. I went through a rubber plug under the driver's floorboard for both power and feedline on my '16 F150. I also went straight to the battery and have had zero corrosion. I'm actually about to redo mine with 8GA for my Galaxy.

Your terminals might be ok as far as corrosion goes if the connection is far enough away from the battery post. I would definitely not use the bolt that is used to tighten the terminal to the post. I have done this and it looks good for a long time, but the crimp connector metal is thin. When it was time to replace my battery, I could see that the ring terminals looked like they were about to break so I moved the connections.
Chris
 

dxChat
Help Users
  • No one is chatting at the moment.
  • dxBot:
    Tucker442 has left the room.
  • @ BJ radionut:
    LIVE 10:00 AM EST :cool:
  • @ Charles Edwards:
    I'm looking for factory settings 1 through 59 for a AT 5555 n2 or AT500 M2 I only wrote down half the values feel like a idiot I need help will be appreciated