CB Re-caping

[Philomath]

I see I'm in the right place for advice. Thank you all.

I'm interested to know if you guys flush mount the new cap, or leave some leg length sticking up like a factory job? I've always flush mounted cap on my circuit builds.

 

[MKwrench]

I see I'm in the right place for advice. Thank you all.

I'm interested to know if you guys flush mount the new cap, or leave some leg length sticking up like a factory job? I've always flush mounted cap on my circuit builds.

Me too, I hate when they float above the board. Larger ones might even get a drop of adhesive. Gorilla glues Cear Grip Contact Adhesive, It remains removable.
I've heard once that some might need the space between the board, *Inductance*? interference*? Anyone know?

 

[brandon7861]

I would mount them flush whenever possible, especially in a mobile rig. Powered subwoofers (especially the class D ones due to the larger filter components) often have bad solder joints from the parts moving relative to the board. I dread the day my friend brings that miserable Alto back for repair.

The capacitor has mass. If the radio vibrates, the capacitors mass tries to keep it in place, so as the radio vibrates, the leads at the board are constantly flexing and straining the solder joint and pad.

Theres likely so much inductance in the wound foil construction already that the additional inductance you get floating it a mm or two off the board is relatively insignificant to the DC and audio stuff these electrolytics are used for. Ceramics and RF, now that's a different story.

 

[Night Stalker10]

Me too, I hate when they float above the board. Larger ones might even get a drop of adhesive. Gorilla glues Cear Grip Contact Adhesive, It remains removable.
I've heard once that some might need the space between the board, *Inductance*? interference*? Anyone know?

Sometimes you have no choice but to let the capacitor show a little leg (ahem), on the components side. The reason is because the newer caps today, are sometimes smaller in diameter than the caps that the 40 year old PCB were designed for. As was mentioned earlier. When I run across this problem, I just leave the negative lead straight through the hole in the PCB, and then bend the positive lead straight out on top of the board, and bend another 90 degree through the hole. This allows the capacitor to be flat on the board. The best part about doing it this way is it still looks somewhat professional, and it's very handy to test the capacitors voltage for trouble shooting with out flipping the radio over and trying to locate the positive lead on the solder side.