Search results

OK so I tried building a 300 ohm twin lead j pole... I followed the directions for 450 ohm window line seen here http://www.qsl.net/dk7zb/J_Pole/wiremanjpole.htm I used some random 300 ohm twin lead I had laying around (the black hard plastic stuff with windows through it) for the matching...

Well I have an old antron 99 that is no good I might use the tubes from that the fiber glass tube that is to repair the imax 2000

The metal roof is another structure not connected to my shack. Only mentioned the roof because I was considering using my 102 whip on the roof of the two car garage that is not too terribly far from my shack. I am familiar with the loop but this is going to be for working locals for working DX...

I folded the braid back... IE the coax runs inside the braid.... The braid goes down 8ish feet... The center conductor goes up 8ish feet In total its around 16 feet

I tried to take some rg58 cut off 8 feet of sleeve and roll the braid back over the sleeve... Then tied the center conductor to a rope and pulled it up into a tree... Best match I found was like 2.9:1

I have a steel 2 car garage. I might try mounting a mobile 102 steel whip on it and use the garage as a counterpoise

The break on the imax 2000 starts right above the mounting bracket and goes 2 or 3 feet up...

I need a 10m vertical antenna for local work... I dont want to deal with radials... I have an Imax 2000 sitting around... but the antenna is broken on the bottom section

what about putting the 144mhz yagi in between the two 432mhz yagis?

I think that is what I was looking for thanks that was what I was trying to explain with this 'picture' look at it like it's a dipole ------15m trap---------feed point---------15m trap------

the Stepir is more like a copper roll up flat strap inside the fiberglass. its every bit as much of an issue as any other antenna, wire, aluminum or 'fiberglass' 1/2 wave separation would be better you might there will likely be some 'excitement' on 12m/11m/10m however as you thought...

I had an old Hi Gain TH-4 (2 elements 20m/15/10m, 1 element 10m, and 1 element 15m/20m) laying around... it was not worth fixing as it was just falling apart... I stole some parts off it to add 6m to my triband yagi (old Wilson SY-33) (built 3 6m 1/2 wave elements) It has 4 traps for 10m and 6...

Ok so I am revamping my VHF UHF stack. Currently it's a 2 el 6m Moxon, a (single) m2 432-9wl (432mhz, 28 element, 20 foot boom) and an old Cushcraft a144-11 (2m 11 element, 13ft long???) The plan is to install a 2nd m2 432-9wl (which I have sitting in my garage... cost = $0 and some elbow...

Thats the ft-8800 I have the ft-8000

I am trying to figure out if the Yaesu ft-8000 is DCS TRANSMIT capable? I would think is would be... I mean my old Motorola Maxtrac can do dcs... I have tried to look online but the 8000r is somewhat of a 'rare' rig

Thanks Captain KW, That was kinda my first guess too... time to clean the setup up a little bit Would an A/V style cable be good enough?

I have been spending the last few hours trying to get DM780 to work with a COM port (RTS/DTS) keyer I built... It works fine on 432, 144, 50, and 28Mhz... However When I dropped down to 21 and 14Mhz and Key up it locks in transmit... NOTE: into a dummy load this does NOT happen I have...

AWESOME!

for 80-15 I am running: -Tarheel 200a (the 100a would be a better choice for 40-10m, would even work 80m) -home brew mount -Scorpion mast and 3 lobe cap hat then for 10m I run a 102 whip I works quite well... in fact I am normally told on 80m and 40m that it's hard to belive I am mobile...

never meant to say that I have full understanding of the material, just that I dont feel I have any understanding of certain parts, but I am able to at least work through and apply most of what I have learned... but at the same time some of it I doubt I will ever use