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I agree. But with the part # maybe someone on Ebay or in the USA may carry the part. Surprisingly, NewEgg carries some Sirio parts. Or take the dimensions and see if you can find another whip that is close enough.

Correct. The 2879C is totally different. It is NOT a drop in replacement. It has very different input and output impedances. Can't over volt and is rated at 150w out. If any major amp builder would re-engineer their 2SC-2879 amps to use the HG 2879C with an AB bias (passive like Texas Star...

Only true at levels of S3 and above. Absolutely not true below... Looks good on paper, but not in reality. And if your friend is giving you S5, then he doesn't need to increase his output. But, If your friend is giving you S0~S1, then even doubling his output (+3dB) will increase his signal...

Whip for your Sirio Fighter 5000: P/N: 2507503.00 (Ø3.5x1800xØ1.5mm INOX) https://moonrakeronline.com/us/sirio-replacement-stainless-steel-whip-3-5-x-1800-x-1-5-inox

If this is a "newer" Imax 2000, then it is made for 10 meters and won't tune properly for 11 meters with out the "optimizer" or a 12" extension. https://www.ebay.com/itm/395286141066?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5336136228&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

He has a white one that has the extra channels in it and a CPI desk mic. You can tell by the "67" in the channel display.

Don't go by colors. Mic cord could have been changed. What ever wire the bare copper shield is wrapped around should be the audio wire. Connect it to the Ring of the phono plug. Using a continuity tester, connect the shield and the other wires. Do any of them have continuity with the mic...

mrf454 uses a 211-11 case (larger) mrf455 uses a 211-07 case (smaller) The transistors in the amp are the larger case style.

Here is the original schematic. Don't know if it helps any.

These should help. Looks like the Blue wire is your HV. Sounds like your Power supply matches Power Supply 1.

On my Magnum 6000, there are 2 pink 2 pin jumpers (near the main relay). One is a "low" drive and the other is a "high" drive (3dB). That gives you 4 different drive levels that can be set internally with the 2 jumpers. Active class A bias, 5 pole Chebyshev output filter, keying jack, cooling...

Have you checked the on/off switch to make sure it is working correctly? Got voltage going through both contacts when "On"?

Its based on a false pretense. For a receive signal greater than 3 S units, I would say it is relatively accurate. For receive signals below 3 S units, it is not. If the AGC circuit hasn't kicked in (audio only signal), then: 1. 3dB increase is audibly noticeable, not 5dB. 2. A 3dB increase...

Between the two of these, you should be able to figure it out. Good Luck.

Unfortunately, the firmware was for the earlier ARES II. You will see that the file dates and the comments are all from 3/2023 to 4/2023. This firmware update was for ARES II that were made before 3/2023. If you just purchased one from Moonraker, it is a new one and the firmware update...

https://www.worldwidedx.com/threads/anybody-use-switching-power-supplies.259884/post-743478 I think Eldorado828 is right. If you are going to try this, instead of using 22k it will need to be ~15K resistor to increase the voltage up that High. With a 22k I can get it up to 14v.

Not the firmware (I don't think it is publicly available). But it is the setup software that allows you to copy or re-write your radio's current settings using a programing cable.

White and Gray shielded wire connects from J104 To CN608 Q603 good? Signal/voltage on pin 14 of U604?

D14 Ok? Correct polarity on C39?

Another cheap option, especially if you are comfortable soldering. Get one of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/162116182904?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5336136228&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1 And just swap them out with the 4 Toshibas. They are the closest thing to a drop...