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655hp and amps. What’s your thoughts?


Will this be a mobile or base setup? The simple answer is since you have a higher powered radio you will need an amp that can take that amount of drive. If it's a mobile application you will also have to have an alternator with the capability to feed the amp, radio, and your vehicle. You will also have to do a proper job installing the amp (grounding, soldered connections, a fuse at the battery, and so on) Obviously your antenna system must be in order as well.

Here are several amplifiers that will work with a Stryker 655 radio. You will still have to adjust the variable power control on your radio to best match up to which ever amp you choose. If you wanted to go with a smaller amp you would have to have your radio de-tuned some so you would not overdrive the smaller amp.

http://www.xforceamps.com/item/Straight-6Pill---Xtreme-Duty---600HD-M-91

http://www.xforceamps.com/item/Straight-4Pill---Xtreme-Duty---400HD-M-87

http://www.xforceamps.com/item/Straight-4Pill---Biased---Xtra-Duty---Hi-Drive---T600HD-163

http://www.jokermanelectronics.com/texas-star-1600x/
 
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A Texas Star 500V will work fine behind the Stryker SR955 radio and the SR655 radio.
I use two setups like that. One in a mobil, and one in a base station.
Set your am deadkey at about 2.5 ~ 3 watts. No more than 4 watts.
And then let the radio "swing into the TS500. It works fine.
 
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I'd run a 3-500z or an 8877 behind it....if mobile a 6 pill. With all the hack job builders trying to maximize profits these days I have no brand recommendation. Definitely put a low pass filter between that thing and any amplifier that's worth money.
 
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I'd run a 3-500z or an 8877 behind it....if mobile a 6 pill. With all the hack job builders trying to maximize profits these days I have no brand recommendation. Definitely put a low pass filter between that thing and any amplifier that's worth money.
That low pass will at least clean up half the problem. Bandpass would be better though.
1526091115505.png
 
That low pass will at least clean up half the problem. Bandpass would be better though.
View attachment 23617

Probably would be better to have a band pass filter. The 955 I had was a turd with spurious emission right out of the box. I fixed mine by improving shielding inside the rig but after it was all said and done my old truck has a cobra 29 in it again.
 
What exactly are you asking about? This is not a carpentry board if you want to learn about boxes and how to build them a carpentry board or forum might be more helpful! This is particular area is for asking questions about RF amplifiers. Asking an intelligent question is not an admission of guilt.

First thing first decide what transistors you want in the amplifier or tubes if that is how you want to roll. So if you wanted to know about Toshiba 2SC2879's you would google Toshiba 2SC2879 Data Sheet.

Then once you click on it scroll down to all the graphs. You will them for power in terms of voltage and input drive. Look at see how many watts of input drive it needs to reach saturation at the voltage you intend to use it at. It matters becasue most are between 13.8V and 15V with a nominal of 14.5V once everything is warm and settled down and your at high way speeds. You will select an amp that can accommodate your carrier level with a little extra headroom. If you are using a power supply at home 13.8 if it is a regulated power supply is about the most you can hope for.

Ideally you really need to have the radio and the amp matched up just to ensure the optimum matching. You want the radio's output power and modulation to remain linear and clean if not it wont matter how much power you put behind it.
 
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And it’s a mobile setup. 2016 Silverado work truck. After doing a little research I may end up having to add an extra battery to compensate for the extra amps this thing is gonna pull.
 

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