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Anytone At-6666 Pro

Just to add another data point, I received a new AT-6666Pro yesterday (via Amazon). It came with version 1.01 firmware installed.

The version 1.02 test data tool gave a "communitation error" on radio read (data cable had a CH343 chip). Installed the 1.03 version tool & it read with no trouble so I have a good backup of my original settings.

I did see the issue of disappearing M/N/O bands while testing with CPS 2.05. I.E. if you save read radio data, close the CPS program & restart it, when you read the data back, M/N/O are gone, CPS pull down list only goes through "L". If you read from the radio first, then read the saved data, M/N/O are present in the CPS pull down list.

I'm still doing familiarization/backups. I'll probably do some xmit tests into a dummy load next for baseline & to verify function.

BTW It was a " prime spring deal" from one vendor at Amazon for $254. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D9CVXQR3?tag=worradfor-20
Thanks for the link, I will probably get another one as a backup. With the price on imports going up, the time to buy is now...
 
The service menu became such a problem with people wrecking their radios, Anytone made some special software to program the service menu.

Available for download on their website:

 
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The service menu became such a problem with people wrecking their radios, Anytone made some special software to program the service menu.

Available for download on their website:


Thanx! I can see how some folks would love to get in there and start turning crap! LOL
 
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I just ordered another QT80 direct from Radioddity. I figure with the tariffs and all, now would be a good time before the prices go up 25-50%. I'll put this one up on the shelf just in case we won't be able to get any in the future. These are still the best 10/11m radios ever, and that's saying something since I've pretty much had 'em all. See you on the bands!
 
Hi everyone, friends!
I've been happily using the AT-6666 Pro since its release, and it's updated with the latest firmware.

While it's possible to adjust the power output via PC settings with clear results, increasing the modulation seems to have limited effect — it's still constrained within a certain range, likely due to anc or similar modulation limiter.

Additionally, I’ve noticed that the positive modulation peaks are not always consistent across different power levels when adjusting the power with the stock potentiometer. For example:

From level 10 to 20, the peaks appear negative

From 1 to 9 and 25 to 40, the peaks are positive


If anyone knows where in the settings I could disable or bypass this limiter, I’d really appreciate it — I strongly believe it's responsible for this behavior.
 
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Isn't a 13.8 volt 10 amp power supply enough power for this 6666 pro ? I chopped off about half of the power cord (one fuse is enough) but when the radio is on and running it with a new pyramid 10 amp 12 amp surge power supply there's no sound coming from the speaker on 11 meter and when I key down the radio display says DC low and radio does not transmit.
What am I doing wrong here ?
 
Isn't a 13.8 volt 10 amp power supply enough power for this 6666 pro ?
No. 10 Amps is not enough. 10 A @ 13.8 VDC is only 138 watts. An 80 watt radio requires at least 150 to 160 watts DC. So it's close, but I wouldn't run with less than a 15 Amp supply otherwise there will be distortion on the audio peaks.

Not understanding why you aren't getting audio from the speaker though! That sounds like an unrelated problem.
 
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The device requires at least 15A. If your power supply is 10A, you could simply lower the power to see if the problem goes away. You'll then know it's just the power supply being undersized for the required peak power. Furthermore, if you connect the device to a PC for programming, you can increase or decrease the low voltage alarm to make it less invasive.
 
I have my Q6 Pro wired direct to the battery using 14 gauge wire in my Chevy Cobalt and unless the engine is running I get a Low Power message on the radio when I try to transmit. So looks like the alternator has to give it that little extra Zap when transmitting.
 
A healthy car battery should deliver 12.6 volts when the car is off. So if the CB gives you this alarm when the engine is off but there are no problems when the car is running, it means your battery voltage is insufficient. Therefore, the battery is old or needs to be replaced.
 

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