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Carl Built

TimmyTheTorch said:
I had a nice surprise arrive in today's mail.

I do need to extend the power and ground wires before I can hook it up to my PSU though. It looks like the existing wire is 8 AWG. I already have a bunch of 6 AWG THHN lying around from other projects so I may just use it. I think it should be fine. I just need to determine the best way to splice them since I know I don't have any appropriate connectors/terminals on hand. Of course I'd have the same decision if I pick up some 8 AWG too.

Do any of you folks splice in an inline fuse holder when connecting your amp to your PSU? A 50 amp one right by the PSU might be a good insurance policy.

I just hope the SSB is as clear as folks say it will be when running an appropriate amount of drive and modulation.

View attachment 62709View attachment 62710
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I like to install the red Anderson connectors on all of my amplifiers and higher powered radio's. Makes it a snap to change out or unplug quick if there is a problem. Since your amp is a 2 pill these will work great up to 8 gage wire.

Amazon product ASIN B00YOFBS94
 
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9C1Driver said:
I like to install the red Anderson connectors on all of my amplifiers and higher powered radio's. Makes it a snap to change out or unplug quick if there is a problem. Since your amp is a 2 pill these will work great up to 8 gage wire.

Amazon product ASIN B00YOFBS94
Click to expand...
These look like they're just what the doctor ordered. I have several different crimpers but none that look like the one that is used for these. Yet. :)
 
I definitely need to address the fan noise. It's quite loud. Maybe a quieter replacement fan, if there is one that fits, after the 30 day warranty is up is in order. Also going to relocate the amp from the desktop to a shelf under the bench. It's an open shelf in a cool basement so airflow and cool air should not be an issue. Of course I don't have any patch cables long enough. I do have barrel connectors and multiple RG213 and RG8X 2 and 3 foot patch cables but I'll pass on that and get some on the required length. I probably need 5-6 foot cables.

And of course the above means I will no longer have a spot for one of my work computers so I'll need to find a new home for it too.
 
snippits75 said:
@TimmyTheTorch

You posted ratings for the two pill 2879 box. The picture of the amp you posted had different ratings on the back of the amp. Is that a 2879C box?
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The info I posted was what was shown for the default amp configuration.
Below are shown the as-ordered specs. The text below "Add To Cart" does not change when you select the optional transistors.

1676822107276.png
 
TimmyTheTorch said:
These look like they're just what the doctor ordered. I have several different crimpers but none that look like the one that is used for these. Yet. :)
Click to expand...
I solder mine, because if the wire doesn't fill the connector completely, then it just smashes it. Put the connector tab in a vice with the barrel opening pointed up. Strip the wire and put flux on it so it is ready. Heat with a torch and melt solder into it to fill about half way. Stick the wire in and hold steady until it is solid. This method also makes them reusable.
 
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TimmyTheTorch said:
I definitely need to address the fan noise. It's quite loud. Maybe a quieter replacement fan, if there is one that fits, after the 30 day warranty is up is in order. Also going to relocate the amp from the desktop to a shelf under the bench. It's an open shelf in a cool basement so airflow and cool air should not be an issue. Of course I don't have any patch cables long enough. I do have barrel connectors and multiple RG213 and RG8X 2 and 3 foot patch cables but I'll pass on that and get some on the required length. I probably need 5-6 foot cables.

And of course the above means I will no longer have a spot for one of my work computers so I'll need to find a new home for it too.
Click to expand...
Why does everyone always want to open these boxes and fuck with the fans. If they're not complaining about the fan noise, they're changing them out for a blue LED fan. I never understood it. You should move as much air as humanly possible through that heat sink.
 
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linearone said:
Why does everyone always want to open these boxes and fuck with the fans. If they're not complaining about the fan noise, they're changing them out for a blue LED fan. I never understood it. You should move as much air as humanly possible through that heat sink.
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c'mon man, you know everybody wants the colorful christmas lights that change colors on their radio equipment. lol,
 
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linearone said:
Why does everyone always want to open these boxes and fuck with the fans. If they're not complaining about the fan noise, they're changing them out for a blue LED fan. I never understood it. You should move as much air as humanly possible through that heat sink.
Click to expand...
Wow. I explicitly stated I am not going to open this up to fuck around with it when discussing extending the power cables. I don't care about the lights or a LED fan. I am a bit on in the years for that. I stated that the fan is loud and it is. Maybe the fan on your Carl Built is a bit less boisterous and that's great. The fan on mine is not malfunctioning, it's just a bit loud. Just like more db at a car's tailpipe does not necessarily mean higher flow through the exhaust manifolds, I know that it is possible to get a fan that is quieter while still pushing the same or more CFM so less noise + at least as much air through the heat sink is a win-win to me. On my 1968 Mustang I swapped out a belt-driven fan with a pair of smaller electric fans and this freed up a few horsepower plus significantly improved the amount of air being pulled through the radiator, running the 351C about 15 degrees cooler. It was an upgrade more than fucking around. However, one pair of chrome valve covers I had on it for a bit were definitely in the fucking around category, plus they leaked a bit of oil.

I still greatly appreciate all of the help I receive on this forum and will probably still ask questions that irritate others.
 
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TimmyTheTorch said:
Wow. I explicitly stated I am not going to open this up to fuck around with it when discussing extending the power cables. I don't care about the lights or a LED fan. I am a bit on in the years for that. I stated that the fan is loud and it is. Maybe the fan on your Carl Built is a bit less boisterous and that's great. The fan on mine is not malfunctioning, it's just a bit loud. Just like more db at a car's tailpipe does not necessarily mean higher flow through the exhaust manifolds, I know that it is possible to get a fan that is quieter while still pushing the same or more CFM so less noise + at least as much air through the heat sink is a win-win to me. On my 1968 Mustang I swapped out a belt-driven fan with a pair of smaller electric fans and this freed up a few horsepower plus significantly improved the amount of air being pulled through the radiator, running the 351C about 15 degrees cooler. It was an upgrade more than fucking around. However, one pair of chrome valve covers I had on it for a bit were definitely in the fucking around category, plus they leaked a bit of oil.

I still greatly appreciate all of the help I receive on this forum and will probably still ask questions that irritate others.
Click to expand...
I will agree with you that the fan noise is loud. When people can hear it in the transmit audio, then it is time for a solution. Moving it farther away or under the desk will help. I believe a majority of the noise comes from the grill of the fan being mounted so close to the blades. Cutting the grill out would help if you didn't mind an open fan. Another grill could be mounted in a way that spaces it out and away from the blades. Remove the fan from the lid and see how much quieter it is when running. Play around with it and see what works. That's the fun part, figuring out how to do what needs to be done.
 
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Now I am working out the safe power levels I can run this at using my Lincoln II+ V4. It has a max dead key of about 5 watts and max PEP on SSB of 30 watts as measured on my Daiwa CN-901HP.

This is the description of the stock amp I bought:

200 2 hg 2 x 2sc2879, Class C bias, low/high power, fan cooled. Max amp draw 48a, install recommended with 8ga wire and 50a fuse. Max input carrier of 7w or 80w max carrier from amp. Max peak input 40w.

but I did opt for the 2879hg c transistors in 4 pill case.

The label on the back of my amp says this:

1676845293297.png
I'm good with the SWR part. but am not sure where the commas should be in the sentence i.e. I'm having trouble clearly understanding what it is telling me. Yet another area where I am learning..

Do I set the radio's AM RF power at a level the generates a maximum of 100 watt dead key on the amp, presumably with the amp on hi?
Since my radio is only good for 30 watt PEP, do I even need to worry about the amp's power output at that point or can 30 watts still exceed what the amp can handle even though it says Max peak input 40w in the original description ? (although that may have been for the stock transistors, not the C version I got). I already have a dead KL503HD, I don't want to add another carcass (still makes me laugh).

There is a product owner that sits in on most of our engineering team meetings and if we either drone on too long or do not target the information to the level of knowledge of the associate, she has a longstanding threat to launch a shoe at said person. I have been threatened more than once for cause. Yet she's my favorite person to work with because you know where you stand with her. She says it is her Boston upbringing. She would not like this product guidance label on the amp.
 
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