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Cobra 2000 GTL ideas...

Cable Guy

Packaged by weight, some settling may occur.
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Dec 29, 2010
447
370
73
West Tennessee
A friend gave me a non-working radio, although in pretty good condition, the issues were a bad capacitor array on the program pins, a broken trace on one of the 7 segment displays, pin rot on the pll from corrosive glue, stuck meters, various blown bulbs and a missing top chassis shield.

So far, I repaired the array with individual ceramics, replaced the factory pll with a mb8719 and socket, repaired the trace on the channel display, cleaned the main board and recapped the whole radio with a Klondike Mike kit. I will try to free the meters and install LEDs all over, but I have no idea what to do about the shield. Also, I need to do the service bulletin for the FC, as this radio was born in 1981, per the stock pll markings.

I already have a stock 2000 on the shelf, so I was thinking of going overboard with this one. I have been playing with those rm stinger boards, figured out how to make them perform great on an am only rig, so I was thinking of putting one inside this radio and see if I can make it perform well on sideband. There appears to be enough clearance under the chassis, below the power supply, for both the stinger and a shield. Now, I know the puny stock power supply won't carry the stinger, so aside from just running it on the DC plug, was thinking of replacing the power supply altogether and adding a micro fan or two. I have a few hp server power supplies so I could probably retrofit one inside.

I know, an exterior amp solution would be better and easier and will probably be a chore getting the stinger to cooperate, and a stock 2000 in good condition would probably be worth more if it was not modded so much. I don't care.

Any ideas or comments? Has anyone successfully put a stinger inside and got good results on sideband? Is it sacrilege to mod this radio in that way? I may just leave it as is, if I could be convinced.

Thanks,
Greg
 

I didn't think that the stinger could do SSB?
I have read conflicting accounts, some say yay, some say nay. Someone on another forum said they had to re-bias it or it won't work well. That's why I wanted to see if anyone had successfully done it. I have read bad reviews of that board even on am, but that was not my experience, as long as modulation is kept at or below 100% and the radio output is tuned to what the board input expects.
 
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I think I talked myself out of installing another power supply. I could wire just the stinger to the DC plug, using an external supply just for the stinger, as I always have an ext. supply running. Still undecided.
 
Best solution I remember hearing about put the amplifier and its power supply in the speaker cabinet. Not sure how it got sufficient air circulation.,

73
That is an interesting idea, Nomad, that speaker cabinet is full of air and opportunity. It looks to certainly be big enuf...
 
Oh. I noticed that I have more power output running on the DC plug, being fed 13.8v than using the internal AC supply. Like 4 watt vs 2 watt dk difference. Probing the yellow power wire from the regulator circuit shows 10.2v on AC or DC rx, but using AC, voltage drops to about 9.5 under tx whereas DC power does not. Could be the issue with lower output using AC vs DC.

Either way, the regulator is over-regulating power to the radio, not giving it the 13.8vdc spec called for in the service manual, instead regulating to 10.2v. I also see that the power supply has no adjustment VR, so is set using a static resistance in the regulator circuit?

Has anyone else experienced this? Is there a tsb for this anywhere? Should I change resistance on the PS regulator circuit to bring this voltage back up? I don't mind using the DC plug, but I want the voltage to be minimum 12vdc leaving the regulator.
 
I'd be looking at the unregulated and regulated sides with a 'scope. There's a reason it's underperforming. Seeing the ripple waveform on the unregulated side would reveal a failing main filter cap or a rectifier bridge with one or more failed diodes in it. The sawtooth ripple waveform should be symmetrical. If every other peak is higher than the one next to it, the rectifier bridge has a problem. If the regulated side reveals excessive rectifier ripple under load, that alone will cause a DC voltmeter reading to fall under load.

All linear-regulator circuits require what they call a "pedestal". This is the *minimum* difference between the unregulated voltage feeding into the regulator circuit and the regulated output voltage. For simple 3-terminal regulator chip like a 7805 this tends to be around 3 Volts more or less. I don't know what this figure is for the Cobra 2000's regulator circuit, but when the lowest part of the ripple waveform on the unregulated side falls below that threshold you'll see little downward 'bumps' in the regulated side on a 'scope instead of the clean flat line you should see.

Back in the bad old days when the economics supported repair of external linear-regulated power supplies the quickest fix was to unsolder every semiconductor component and test each one in turn. Replacing every part that flunked would usually fix it. Tended to be quicker than head-scratching over odd meter readings.

73
 
Ok, I will scope it out. I did replace the main filter cap before I noticed the voltage issue. Thanks!
 
In rx using the onboard power supply, I got ~20v DC coming from the rectifier into the regulator with about .6v ac sawtooth ripple riding it.
IMG_20241124_090345608.jpg
Sorry for the pic quality, scope set at .2 volt/div in AC mode to center it up some.

Regulator output is steady at 10v, shown in DC mode, 5 volt/div.
IMG_20241124_090943884.jpg
Even viewing in AC mode to keep waveform centered, and at 5 mv/div, little ripple on the output.
IMG_20241124_091246246.jpg

Going to check TX now. Will be back soon.
 
Tx using the on board power supply, from the rectifier, scope in AC mode for centering, .5 volt/div, looks about 1.6vpp sawtooth, hmm.
IMG_20241124_091753740.jpg

The output of the regulator in tx, scope in AC mode, set at 10mv/div...
IMG_20241124_092023183.jpg
When viewing in DC mode, 5 volt/div, still shows right about 10vdc on the scope, just a thicker, blurrier trace. Also, all measurements are made without the clock/counter powered/plugged in.
IMG_20241124_093750593.jpg
What do you think?
 
I took some Rx voltages around the power supply.
Tr401 - spec - measured
B - 14.43 - 10.68
C - 18.60 - 19.83
E - 13.80 - 10.05
The base is low, but the BE junction shows .63 voltage drops, looks good to me.
Tr301
B - 14.95 - 11.23
C - 18.60 - 19.54
E - 14.43 - 10.69
Same as above, looks like the base isn't high enough, causing the emitter to be lower, BE junction dropping .54v, seems a little low.
Tr302
B - 06.83 - 05.38
C - 14.95 - 11.23
E - 06.22 - 06.19
BE drop off .81v. The zener, d301, at the emitter of tr302, appears to be fine per emitter measurement. Im going to check the area again.
 
Rock on! Gotta love it when a plan comes together. Decades ago I had a customer argue with me that I should fix his 20-Amp linear-regulated power supply. Told him the repair would cost nearly enough to buy a new one. He was skeptical, and had just enough skill to change parts and test them. The second workbench position wasn't occupied that day, so I told him to go ahead and fix it himself. I knew the parts he would need were on hand. He tested a couple of transistors and one of them was bad. He replaced it and the output still wouldn't regulate. I pointed to the next likely ones to have trouble. He found one that flunked the test, replaced it and still had trouble. After a couple more cycles of lather, rinse repeat it finally delivered current and would regulate properly.

Took him the whole afternoon. Yeah, I would have gotten it done faster, but the price would still have been out of reason IMHO.

Did accomplish one thing. He never asked me to fix one of those ever again.

73
 
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