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dx959
- Thread starter cdc181
- Start date
If you are looking for a fast food answer and you haven't done any internal diagnostics; then you really cannot be helped - since there is no other evidence to work with. Too vague and too many variables. You need test gear such as a DVM to begin with.
Best to send it to a shop as others have already pointed out.
if you do not have TX or RX you need to verify the PLL is locked on. does the TX rx light change, does the s meter move when you are in RX mode and does it move when you are in TX mode. could be a bad solder joint in the PLL or vco areas.
you need to check all of this before much help can be given.
you need to check all of this before much help can be given.
Shadetree Mechanic
Delaware Base Station 808
Do you have an external VSWR meter? Maybe that would tell if anything is coming out. Here is a question that maybe someone can answer: If the PLL is out of lock will it still receive?
I Have never had one that had RX when the PLL was out of lock. you have to get it on freq 1st to RX or TX. since no meter movement at all I would start looking for voltage at the vco and PLL. so far I am leaning towards a bad solder joint.
I would first ask what tools are available to troubleshoot and maybe fix it.
A DMM or analog multimeter is a good place to start.
If you don't have a wattmeter in the coax line, how can you tell what it is or isn't doing? The radio's internal meter can be helpful, but has limited use as a troubleshooting aid.
Do you have soldering tools set up to use? Most points of failure in a radio like this will be caused either by a failed solder connection, or by a component you'll have to remove and replace once you zero in on the cause of the failure. The factory that builds this radio is famous for solder connections that come loose in the many brands of radio they make.
Somebody (else) should post a step-by-step "things to check first" sticky that asks all the routine questions about "Won't receive" , "Won't transmit" and "won't do either one".
Defpom got tired of asking the same questions over and over about this and put a form on his forum. Once you answered the questions on the form, you could ask about your "won't work" radio.
Not so different from calling your mechanic to ask advice about "my car won't start".
He will begin by asking what things you CAN see that work, like dashboard indicators, the sound you hear when twisting the key to the "start" position, etc.
Troubleshooting is pretty much the same process for any machine. You identify the internal functions that are not broken. One by one as you find things that are NOT broken, this will lead you to what IS broken.
The cause of "Car won't start" might be fuel, spark, compression or a combination of them. Finding out which of the vital parts of the motor that make it run are dead and which ones are alive will lead you to the cause of that fault.
I would first take a VERY bright light and have a close look at the solder connections especially around the outer edge of the circuit board. Around the inside aluminum chassis rail you'll see components that are bolted to the surface, usually with an insulating washer under them. Examine the soldering to each of the legs on these parts where they are lapped over the foil at the edge of the circuit board. Many routine failures are caused by these connections cracking and coming loose. A radio that is mounted in the factory bracket is vulnerable to this. The rubber washers that come with the radio are meant to "shim" the gap between the ears of the bracket and the sides of the radio. If you don't fill that gap between the radio and the bracket's ears, you will put spring tension onto the bracket when you tighten the thumbscrews. This tension pulls the sides of the radio outwards and will pull those lapped-over solder connections apart.
Most of the time this failure becomes intermittent and causes the radio to cut in and out. But it's the simplest common fault to look for first.
And if you don't have the tools to fix that problem if you find it, you really do need to hire someone.
73
A DMM or analog multimeter is a good place to start.
If you don't have a wattmeter in the coax line, how can you tell what it is or isn't doing? The radio's internal meter can be helpful, but has limited use as a troubleshooting aid.
Do you have soldering tools set up to use? Most points of failure in a radio like this will be caused either by a failed solder connection, or by a component you'll have to remove and replace once you zero in on the cause of the failure. The factory that builds this radio is famous for solder connections that come loose in the many brands of radio they make.
Somebody (else) should post a step-by-step "things to check first" sticky that asks all the routine questions about "Won't receive" , "Won't transmit" and "won't do either one".
Defpom got tired of asking the same questions over and over about this and put a form on his forum. Once you answered the questions on the form, you could ask about your "won't work" radio.
Not so different from calling your mechanic to ask advice about "my car won't start".
He will begin by asking what things you CAN see that work, like dashboard indicators, the sound you hear when twisting the key to the "start" position, etc.
Troubleshooting is pretty much the same process for any machine. You identify the internal functions that are not broken. One by one as you find things that are NOT broken, this will lead you to what IS broken.
The cause of "Car won't start" might be fuel, spark, compression or a combination of them. Finding out which of the vital parts of the motor that make it run are dead and which ones are alive will lead you to the cause of that fault.
I would first take a VERY bright light and have a close look at the solder connections especially around the outer edge of the circuit board. Around the inside aluminum chassis rail you'll see components that are bolted to the surface, usually with an insulating washer under them. Examine the soldering to each of the legs on these parts where they are lapped over the foil at the edge of the circuit board. Many routine failures are caused by these connections cracking and coming loose. A radio that is mounted in the factory bracket is vulnerable to this. The rubber washers that come with the radio are meant to "shim" the gap between the ears of the bracket and the sides of the radio. If you don't fill that gap between the radio and the bracket's ears, you will put spring tension onto the bracket when you tighten the thumbscrews. This tension pulls the sides of the radio outwards and will pull those lapped-over solder connections apart.
Most of the time this failure becomes intermittent and causes the radio to cut in and out. But it's the simplest common fault to look for first.
And if you don't have the tools to fix that problem if you find it, you really do need to hire someone.
73
OK guys got my password reset this is aka cdc181 now had to go around the pll seems it had bad joints.But now needle moves when key the mike light turns red for tx.Now there is no power out with it hooked up to a power meter looks like have to do some more digging into this
OK now you are getting some where. can you check the freq at the leg of the 10.240 crystal to see if it is making good connection. after finding that you have some bad solder joints at the PLL I would gamble you have more in the VCO and crystal area and possible around the audio IC mounted to the side of the case.. do not stop now with the PLL area.
Will check RX still sound's funny and to hear anything all static like have to turn volume up the whole way