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Experiments with Russian "G" tubes.

Shockwave

Sr. Member
Sep 19, 2009
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Many of us have noticed the attractive price on the surplus Russian radar tubes and have wondered about using them as linear amps. The cost per watt of dissipation makes this attractive but you should remember you are getting what you paid for. They have been sitting on the shelf for decades and most are not useable without being conditioned first. Of all the ceramic tubes, these may have the worst vacuum seals or poorest getter materials that fail to preserve the vacuum.

If you apply HV and RF before burning in the filament, you are almost guaranteed an internal tube arc in every case. Slowly running the filament voltage up over many hours will burn off contaminants trapped inside the vacuum and prevent these arcs. The topic and how to do this is well covered online and should not be ignored.

Others have suggested the GS35B is like an 8877 on steroids. I say hogwash! Both tubes have a fragile grid at between 25 and 26 watts. If you think you can run a GS35B at twice the output of the 8877 get ready for a failure! The GS35B does NOT have a 2500 plate dissipation as advertised to the ham community and extrapolated from the radar specs.

Don't let that big anode cooler fool you. It actually sucks for two reasons. First it's not part of the tube and has a mechanical bond between it and the anode, causing a significant loss in heat transfer between the two. Second, the tube is a planar triode for microwave and not a conical design. That means the plate surface area is MUCH smaller than other conical tubes of the same physical size.

Many are familiar with the high emissions available from oxide coated cathodes and their lower current consumption. Tubes like the 8877 can be grossly overdriven for short periods of time and produce much higher peak output since the cathode can support these emissions. Not the case with the Russian tubes.

While the Russian tubes are rated for pulse service they can't handle the extra current for any length of time useful in communications duty. Lots of testing on everything from the GI7B to the GS35B were conducted. Drive them hard and the power only comes up for a few seconds. Then get ready for the "fade". Output will begin to drop rapidly. I've watched it fall all the way down to where there was virtually no gain and it then kicks out the over current protection on the test amp.

This condition is very prevalent at higher plate voltages and seems to be dependant on the bias voltage used at higher plate voltages. This presents a situation where bias voltage cannot stabilize the tube at higher than normal plate voltage. You can set the idling current properly but once you apply RF a very interesting thing happens. Grid current will spike in a negative direction and prevent you from using more plate voltage almost regardless of the bias voltage. Only way around this is excessive forward bias current.

I've never seen Western tubes fade in output or spike in negative grid current like this and have tried to figure out what may be the cause. Only two possibilities come to mind. The fragile grids inside these tubes may be turning red hot. Dissection of several failed tubes revealed significant grid damage inside. The second thought is the oxide coating on the cathode may not be deep enough to support these emissions. One clue here is that short 500 hour life span.

Knowing the limitations of these tubes can help you make the right choice. They are a good value but only when used to their RATED military specs. That's 1500 watts on a GS35B, not 2500! Whoever came up with this 2500 watt rating on HF put very little thought into how much more than the rated air flow would actually be required at this power level. You'll need a blower than can nearly push the tube out of the socket to sustain this power level otherwise the copper will turn blue.
 
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Good stuff. You have pretty much highlighted my reasons for not even looking sideways at them. I too could never understand where the 2500 watt rating came from either.
 
My question is... allowing proper "burn in time" for, say, a GS35B tube, is it possible to get 500W out of the tube? Not trying to squeeze every watt out of the tube or anything, but is it feasible to get 500-600W PEP out of a tube with good cooling, proper B+ and proper grid voltages and currents?


~Cheers~
 
My question is... allowing proper "burn in time" for, say, a GS35B tube, is it possible to get 500W out of the tube? Not trying to squeeze every watt out of the tube or anything, but is it feasible to get 500-600W PEP out of a tube with good cooling, proper B+ and proper grid voltages and currents?


~Cheers~

The tube will easily make 1500 watts output. It runs fairly reliable up to 2000 watts PEP once you get past the burn in process. Don't put more than 4000 volts on the plate.
 
While this may be true, I can buy 10-15 NOS GS35b tubes for the price of one new 8877.

This is true but I purchased six of the GS35B tubes for testing to get three that past the hi pot test after burn in. Most won't hold off 3000 volts without noticeable leakage unless you burn them in. One had such a weak vacuum it wouldn't even light the filament without drawing almost 6 amps. That's about double the normal current and a clear sign of a poor vacuum.


In the flat out side by side power testing the 8877 is the clear winner even though it's noted for being fragile. An Eimac 8877 held over 6000 volts under load and produced a 7200 watt CW carrier before meltdown. The best GS35B out of the six began to fall apart with internal arcs at about 3000 watts and 4500 volts. The 8877 has immense reserve emissions available from the cathode where the GS35B appears to have little reserve peak emissions.

These tests were not conducted to see where you could run either tube safely but were intended to reveal the strengths and weaknesses of both tubes. One way to test the headroom or durability is to push them to the max and record the conditions they fail under. I'm no fan of the 8877 being it's very expensive for the power class and too fragile to run without over current protection on the grid. I can tell you a good one will kick the snot out of a GS35B though.
 
Oh ok! So I could even do 1000W PEP and be well within reasonable operating parameters of the tube then. I wouldn't mind building something with a GS35B tube, and just run it about half throttle or something... let it loaf @ 1000W PEP or something. I suppose it would need a pretty complex grid bias circuit?


~Cheers~
 
Oh ok! So I could even do 1000W PEP and be well within reasonable operating parameters of the tube then. I wouldn't mind building something with a GS35B tube, and just run it about half throttle or something... let it loaf @ 1000W PEP or something. I suppose it would need a pretty complex grid bias circuit?


~Cheers~

It's actually easy to work with requiring no socket. The filament can light with AC or DC since the cathode is separate and tied to only one side of the filament. Bias is simple. I use the same shunt regulator that works with screens on tetrodes to bias the cathode of a triode. The simple zener diode across the base - collector junction of a large NPN transistor with the regulated output across the collector - emitter junction. Cheap, easy and much more stable than the string of rectifier diodes.
 
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While the transistor set up for bias works nicely, I have done a few this way. I still like my big bulky string or 6A or 10A diodes. Seems very nearly stable as transistor, and less likely to fail. The transistor setup works, but you have to bypas and choke/ isolate everything to keep RF out of circuit. Oh and you better fuse the cathode/ bias circuit.
 
The string of rectifier diodes should also be RF bypassed the same way the transistor would be, otherwise they can do what their names says. Rectify any RF dropped across the diode string. By using the transistor and zener diode, you draw at least 10 to 20 times less current (depending on the transistors HFE) off the constant voltage source (diodes). You can see just how unstable the rectifier string is by taking a single 10 amp diode and measure the voltage drop across it as you vary the current from 100 ma to 10 amps (or whatever your maximum cathode current is). The voltage drop goes up from maybe .6 to sometimes over a volt.

Then you multiply that by the number of diodes and you can see where the bias moves around a lot. Things like this will reduce the linearity on SSB and prevent you from reaching the full positive peaks on AM. One thing I can say is the diode string is virtually indestructible where the transistor is not. You need good protection to save the transistor in the event of an internal tube arc. Cathode fuses and glitch resistors help but are not fast enough all of the time to save these parts.

I used two different RF decks to test these tubes. One was for the GI7B and GI46B group and the other was for the GS31B and GS35B group. Both had all the protection mentioned above plus they used "The Triode Board". The level of protection this board offers is unparalleled. In the event of a grid over current fault, drive is removed by deenergizing the RF vacuum relay and resets just by rekeying the mic. In the event of a serious plate over current fault such as a tube arc, the same thing happens but the plate primary contactor is immediately deenergized while another vacuum relay opens the B+ line and pulls the anode to ground through the glitch resistor.

All of this happens in a few milliseconds and is vital to stop the filter caps from recharging and continuing the arc through the tube. This allowed an individual tube to sustain countless internal arcs before the grid was finally destroyed. The current was limited so the initial arc didn't blow the grid apart and the time was limited so the elements didn't get a chance to melt. If the tubes cost over $100 it's worth it to install the triode board kit in the RF deck. When properly calibrated it nearly eliminates tube destruction by operator error or equipment malfunction.
 
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Yup, the diode string has a choke on both ends and a bypas cap @ both ends. Using the 6a, seems pretty stable. You can see when it heats up, it does drop about a volt. But as you said virtually industructable. Good stuff. Thanks for sharing. The key on either design, I place near the blower so it gets plenty of airflow which keeps the parts happy. Pressurized deck on underside. 150cfm with a blower rated with high back pressure.
 
So while we're on the subject ...... Is there any advantage to conditioning a tube every couple of years if you know it'll sit around awhile, or is it just as beneficial to wait and condition it before use?

I think Eimac recommends new tubes be conditioned after even a year or two of being shelved.
 
I like to test and condition Russian tubes as soon as I get them. That way I can spot the duds during my 14 day refund period and return them for another try. As mentioned I've received them under such poor vacuum the filament wouldn't light and that's one I wouldn't even bother to condition.

With respect to western ceramic tubes, I've never seen a situation where conditioning was required. I've purchased many NOS Eimacs that sat around for 15 years and never had an issue. It is recommended that you rotate stock and use the oldest tubes first but they just about always pass high pot testing without conditioning.
 
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With respect to western ceramic tubes, I've never seen a situation where conditioning was required. I've purchased many NOS Eimacs that sat around for 15 years and never had an issue. It is recommended that you rotate stock and use the oldest tubes first but they just about always pass high pot testing without conditioning.
I'll see if I can find the PDF again, but Eimac does recommend conditioning NOS metal oxide tubes in that paper. Thoriated tubes on the other hand, won't benefit from conditioning as I understand it.
 
That's probably because oxide coated cathodes are much more sensitive to ion bombardment that can sputter away the coating, poisoning the cathode. Having said that I've put at least six 8877's in service that were idle for more than 10 years with no issues related to a weak or contaminated vacuum. Its been many peoples experience that western ceramic tubes almost never require conditioning where Russian surplus tubes almost always require it. While it very well may be recommended, you just about never get the "big bang" if you skip it.
 

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