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How to guy a mast pole

TimmyTheTorch

Active Member
Dec 11, 2022
254
193
43
Northeast Wisconsin
I am debating putting up three or four guy wires toward the top of a 30 foot tall mast that currently has a Maco V58 antenna on top.

The bottom two sections of the mast are 11 gauge "1-7/8" x 11' Galvanized WT-40 Chain-Link Fence Line Posts. There is a 16 gauge, 6 foot long sleeve inside these two pipes that overlaps the joint. It's a very tight fit so less than one mm of wiggle room. Grade 8 bolts secure the sleeve inside the outer pipes.

The next two sections are GENUINE ROHN 5' Steel Tubing - 16 Gauge Steel Mast Pipe with Locking Joints. About two feet of the mast overlaps the larger pipe section below. The masts are secured to the main mast by four stainless steel double U-bolts.

Then the Maco V58 sits atop the second mast.

The mast is secured to the house using two Easy Up 18" Stand Off Wall Antenna Mount for Masts 2" - 4" Y Style Bracket - EZ 30-18W. The brackets are attached to pressure treated 2x4s that are attached to studs behind the vinyl siding using hardware appropriate to the environment. The lower bracket attaches to the mast at a height of about 3 feet and the second one at a height of about 10 feet. That's as high as I could go.

The mast itself sits in an EZ32C Telescopic Antenna Mast Heavy Duty Base Plate and the base plate has a spike in it that is driven into the ground to both keep the base plate from moving but also to have the mast slide over it and be locked in place with a capture nut.

This setup leaves me about 20 feet of mast plus the V58 above the top Y support. It seems quite secure and heavy duty but who knows.

The problem I have is I don't know where to install the guy wire anchors. We just spent about $25K getting the roof replaced and don't want to hack into it. The entire house has a 16 inch overhang where the gutters mount so getting a guy wire from the ring on the mast down to an anchor on the roof fascia is troublesome. I can just wrap the guy wire around the gutters because it would destroy them I could come up with a mechanism that attaches to the bottom of the soffit then does a 90 degree turn up high enough to allow the guy wire to attach to it. Seems like that might possibly be a lot of torque being placed on that type of setup. Even if I did that, that would cover the mast to the NE and the SE. I'd need a third guy wire on the west side of the house which is the side of the house where the antenna is mounted. The best options I see there are some very large trunks for both maple and oak trees. If I did that I'd want to make sure it's not a safety hazard.

I do plan on putting up set of beams next spring. I may either use something like an M103C on horizontal with the V58 vertical or an M104C horizontal again with the V58 vertical. If I went with the M103C I would probably just stick with this mast as long as I can get a suitable guy wire arrangement figured out. For the M104C I'd go the tower route but I still may have to guy the tower unless I fork out for a freestanding one.

Any of you folks ever have to run guys wires on a roof with a 16 inch overhang and gutters? The roof is multi-faceted so no really straightforward anchor points that I can see.

01 (Medium) - Copy.jpg02 (Medium) - Copy.jpg03 (Medium) - Copy.jpg04 (Medium) - Copy.jpg05 (Medium) - Copy.jpg06 (Medium) - Copy.jpg07 (Medium) - Copy.jpg
 

The main challenge I have right now is how do I create an anchor point that the guy wire can securely connect to when there is an overhang with gutters around the entire house. We just had a new roof put on so I really don't want to start drilling holes through the new shingles right at the edge of the roof. I'm thinking of either:

a) fastening a 2x4 under the soffit and extending out a bit past the shingles and have a vertical eyebolt near the end of the 2x4 that the guy wire can connect to (but that might expose the support board to more torque than it can handle)

or

b) maybe I can run a long eyebolt through the gutter and through the fascia so that the eye is out a bit past the edge of the gutter, but this requires me to drill through the gutter for the bolt to pass, and not sure if the fascia board will be strong enough.

Or maybe I'll just leave it alone and see what happens. I am hoping to put up a tower in the spring but if it's a guyed tower I'll be back to a similar issue.
If I wasn't concerned with possibly decapitating one of my kids or the neighbor's kids I could just put three anchors out in the yard in the appropriate spot and run the guy wire to them.

Overhang1.JPGOverhang3.JPG
 
Use 3 guy wires. Problem solved.
Yup, no problem as long as I ignore my goal to not anchor two of the guy wires through the shingles. But since I do not want to go through the shingles, the problem of where to anchor two of the guy wires remains.
The blue is the location of the antenna. The horizontal red line going to the left is to an existing post so no worries for anchoring that guy wire. The two angled red lines on the right are the two that seem to have no good anchor points except if I go through the shingles. I'm just going to leave this antenna's fate to Mother Nature. The mast and brackets are very robust and if they aren't strong enough, oh well.

Regardless, thanks for the suggestions. Sometimes there really aren't any great answers to engineering/design challenges. Just the best of a bunch of not-great compromises.
Capture.JPG
 
Not the ideal idea, but you could run your guy line as you show above and use a good lag screw to anchor it thru the top of the gutter into the end of a rafter just as the eves trough is mounted. It won't take much to secure that installation and you should be fine with that idea.
 
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At the point where you have the guy line going to the ground level, you can put a pipe into the ground and be high enough that the guy line would not hang anyone under it. Paint the pipe dark green so it will blend into the background (and they can walk into it).

The pipe needs to be deep enough (2 to 3 feet) to not get pulled out or over by the load of the antenna and mast in the wind.

Would also make it easier for mowing if you have a zero-turn (but you may hit it being green).

Without the guy lines, the antenna will be gone sooner than you think. You may not like the damage it would do to the house in the middle of winter, in the middle of the night, in the middle of a sound sleep, it wakes up the wife, and then.............
I don't even want to know what happens then!
 
Well, now the guy wire question is a part of me deciding if I can have a guyed 30-40 foot tower with either a Shooting Star or Comet on it and several tidy, non-leaking anchor points on the shingled roof plus one connected to a pole set in concrete in the west yard or if I will have to ante up for a freestanding tower. It is a new roof but I have decided I am okay with attaching several guy wire anchors to it as long as they are secure and don't leak. Not sure how to go about that part yet but it sure would give me a lot more options.
 
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Well, now the guy wire question is a part of me deciding if I can have a guyed 30-40 foot tower with either a Shooting Star or Comet on it and several tidy, non-leaking anchor points on the shingled roof plus one connected to a pole set in concrete in the west yard or if I will have to ante up for a freestanding tower. It is a new roof but I have decided I am okay with attaching several guy wire anchors to it as long as they are secure and don't leak. Not sure how to go about that part yet but it sure would give me a lot more options.
A 40 foot tower attached to the house might not need to be guyed. Which reminds me that I have 40 feet of old tower that someone gave me, that I need to put up. I am interested to see what you come up with.
 
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A 40 foot tower attached to the house might not need to be guyed. Which reminds me that I have 40 feet of old tower that someone gave me, that I need to put up. I am interested to see what you come up with.
That would make me nervous. The tower would be attached to a tilting base on a concrete pad and only attached to the house at the 10 foot level. That leaves 30 feet of tower plus maybe 10 feet of mast above it with a Yaesu rotator and 3 or 4 element dual polarity beam as the cherry on the cake.
 
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