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inside a wilson 5000 coil part 2

gamegetter said:
Looking at pics 1-2-3-4- & 6, where the coil enters the tap hole...there looks like the possibility of a small gap there.

what if the tap was off a hair and the coil is loose instead?

just an idea.
Click to expand...

someone else on another forum mentioned this as well .that the tap could have lost contact .i never checked that !! i should have .not only does the nut get loose maybe that tap does lose connection too .

although i do run quite a bit of rf thru mine it could be heating to the point of melting the solder .then it loses connection .
i never thought to check that .when the next one fails i will do a total tear down and see whats what .

good observations guys.
 
ONAWHIM said:
In that last pic the nut looks like it's on backwards.
The curved side is down.
Shouldn't it be the other way around?

I'm assuming none of that gook is dielectric, just hot glue?


sorry if i missed an earlier post, I'm at work ready to bail...



.
Click to expand...

the nut came off that way .its still covered in silicone .before i reassembled i totaly took the dremel to it with a wire wheel and cleaned all that stuff up .
i think the nut has to be that way to grab the perforations in the cap that are to hold the nut from turning .

if it was to be installed flat side down the rounded corners would not grab the cap.look inside the cap and you will see what i mean .

if you cant see it in these pics go to part 1 and look there .

edit= i went and looked at my own pictures in part 1 and yes in part 2 here the nut is on backwards .but this pic is before i cleaned it all up .i cannot be sure if i put the nut back on correctly or not at this point .in any event it failed again and it hit the trash heap .

good eye!
 
Last edited:
I thought X Force had the exclusive rights on using hot glue.
That large coil is the reason the Wilson 5000 is the king of the base loaded antennas.
 
it was a wilson ,i have not bought a new one since barjan took over .
i hit the drive thru`s alot in that vehicle and the occasional tree limb and i am sure that contributes to the damage .
more so that i run a thru the roof mount now .previously it would just knock the mag and all over but now the whip and the tower have to absorb all that .
 
rabbiporkchop said:
Was that a Bill Wilson 5K or a Barjan 5K? My Bill Wilson 5K with the serial number has never come loose on me yet.
Click to expand...

I have a pre Bargan 5k with a serial #. I was just doing to spring cleaning and stuff and noticed that the outer shell of mine was loose, so I spun it of and sure enough the nut as well. The locking washer is a elcheapo one so I replaced it with a new stainless one. I just cleaned it up and really torque it down, applied some silicone on it and plan to let it air out for a few days while its apart. If it does it again then its up for exploration as well.
 
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wow , i never had the shell comes loose .matter of fact they were near impossible to get open .
you might have lucked out in that regard. :sneaky2:
 
alot of good information here guys, i just wish i could have read it before i bought a new wilson 5000. i was on the fence for awhile between the siro p 5000 and the wilson 5000 and finally decided to try the wilson, after waiting two week to receive it, when it finally showed up it had a bad coil right out of the box. sent it back to the current owners of the company and had to wait for them to "find" one to send me. so after almost a month i got to try it out wondering how long before the next time i would have to "service" it, i noticed that there is no longer a "weep" hole in the coil for moisture drainage. i thought i did all of the research that could be done on it and i guess i was wrong. the issue i was having with it seemed weired. and i was only seeing the issue when using a little power. i had no problem setting the swr with just the radio and was seeing 1.2.1 max through all 40 channels then when i rechecked the swr when using around 120 watts i was seeing the swr "jump" from 38 to 40. it would read 1.2.1 when you first key up and then after about a half second it would jump to 2.4.1 or higher, and the swr would get progressively worse as you went higher in frequency. was thinking maybe a bad solder joint in the coil was the culprit. i installed my kw can dummy load to make sure their wasn't any equiptment issues and sure enough found no problems. so now i am seeing this issue with my wilson 1000 and i am wondering if i should try to disect the coil and repair it, or just throw it into the trash heap and get the p 5000?

i am wondering how you opened up the coil without distroying the plastic housing? and what kind of "glue" did you use to put it back together? no dought it has to do with water intrusion and or corrosion.:thumbdown: any help that you could offer would be greatly appreciated.
 
Bandit:

Doubt very much that you need to take apart a brand-new coil.
Chances are, that the poor SWR is caused by:

a) a poor input match with the amp

b) the antenna is on a poorly chosen location on the vehicle
 
well the 5000 did have a bad coil as the problem was corrected after replaceing it with the new one that they shipped me and i am not seeing any further problems with it.

the wilson 1000 is about seven years old and hasen't given me a lick of trouble. i am running both antennas on a full sized vehicle through a switchbox, both antennas spaced about 4 feet apart and using a blue rhino antenna switch that leaves the unused portion ungrounded as both antennas are sharing the same ground plane( using the wilson 5000 for ten meter and the 1000 for 11 meter). the input swr between amp and radio never goes above 1.2.1 except when i am seeing this "jump".

i am only seeing this problem during am use from 38 on up, i am not seeing it on ssb using a two tone test to accurately calibrate my swr meter which is a yeasu ys-60. checked the jumper between amp and radio and it is good, i can rule out coax issues as well as i upgraded it not to long ago( LMR240 ultraflex)...just got me stumped
 
you probably need to do more antenna tuning .if you get good swr from ch1 thru 38 thats not bad .i dont even get that wide a spread with the amp on but i run much more power .
i just tune the whip for the channel i will be using the most with the amp on .in my case thats ch28 so i set it for that channel with the amp on .

i dont think any wilson will get a great low swr across the whole 40 with a amp running .barefoot yes....

the very first 5000 i had was a good one .i ran a 2by6 thru it for near 5 years ,then a 2by8 for a couple more after that .that coil gave me a good low swr across all 40 .

the coils as of late just havent been as good .

getting them open without trashing the casing is no east task .i got lucky .i used a thin blade to gouge out the glue around the base enough to get a thin blade up around the outer casing .i went slow and kept working that blade in as far as i could .
i eventually got it off .it wasnt perfect by no means but was useable .
i glued it back on with super glue .then ran a bead of silicone around the small gap at the bottom .

in the end it only lasted a few more months then failed again so it really wasnt worth the time .when this one goes i might try the sirio myself .

i dont think theres anything wrong with your antenna that some more tuning wouldnt correct .mine were spiking swr into the red and receive would come n go .
i attest that to to many drive thru`s and tree limb strikes .

good luck .
 
i understand what you mean by more tuning, however i did that with the 5000 and i got the swr to 1.1.1 and it would still jump. i tuned it enough to see the swr start to rise on channel 1. if i would have kept trimming the whip i would have overshot channel 40. now i have done the best i can as far as tuning goes with the 1000 as the swr(radio only) is 1.4.1 on 26.805 and 1.4.1 on 27.505 with 1.1.1 being somewhere around 26.965 to 27. 205 i also forgot to mention, not that it would help i had done extensive bonding work on the vehicle with 5/8" ground braid years ago to help with radation patterns.
 

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