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Looking for help for perfect install

Robb

Yup
Dec 18, 2008
11,429
3,542
323
Silicon Valley CA, Storm Lake IA
I think this may be the best solution I have seen. If I go this route, I would have to remove the headliner to change coax, and I don't want to do that if I decide to add an amp. My radio will be mounted to the roof between the sun visors, so I won't need much coax to reach it. My amp would be in the back seat somewhere, so I would like to start with coax long enough.
(a)What do I do with the excess? Just stuff it above the headliner randomly, or big coils?
(b)What is the best coax for 1k watts?
Sorry for the questions, there is just so much bad info everywhere that I am hesitant to believe anything anymore.
(a)Use a piece of coax that is long enough to do the job; not a pre-made piece. Certainly don't need to store the excess coax up inside the headliner; why?

(b)Between the amp and the radio, the coax will need to be pretty flexible. A quality brand of RG-8X should work out fine. Still can't figure out why you must have a 1k amp.
:unsure:

IMO - You can do just fine with the radio alone with that Predator antenna.
 
Last edited:

InTheRed

New Member
Jun 6, 2014
9
0
1
I don't plan to amp it initially, but I would like to leave the option open. I just thought it would be easier to use a coax that would be long enough to reach an amp. Would it be acceptable to use a male-male adapter to hookup an extension if I add an amp later? I will definitely never remove the headliner again after the initial install.
 

543_Dallas

Sr. Member
Jul 25, 2011
2,854
4,030
273
I don't plan to amp it initially, but I would like to leave the option open. I just thought it would be easier to use a coax that would be long enough to reach an amp. Would it be acceptable to use a male-male adapter to hookup an extension if I add an amp later? I will definitely never remove the headliner again after the initial install.

No issue with running the barrel connector so you can install an amp in the future. If you plan on a kW amp a solid mount on the roof will perform better and be less likely to give you problems with RF interference.

I have a puck mount on the roof of my 01 with a predator 10k on top. You need a good backing plate for support. I believe mine is 6 or 8 inch square 1/4" thick aluminum plate. I've hit my antenna pretty hard and not damaged the roof. The monkey made antennas are built like a tank but IMO that's not a good thing here. I think the thin lower shaft on my predator will break before the roof gets any damage.

They seem to tune better if you put them as far back on the cab as possible and a 17" shaft seems to be the best compromise between low swr and flexibility....the longer the lower shaft the shorter the stinger. You can use a mag mount base and your antenna of choice to find the sweet spot before you commit and drill a hole.

Something else I did for piece of mind is put a few snap on ferrite cores around the coax as close to the mount as possible before I put the headliner back in. Will help prevent common mode current that will cause all kinds of RF havoc in these Chrysler products. You have to know what mix of ferrite you're dealing with. Some mixes are useless for HF.
 

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  • @ ButtFuzz:
    on the connector with the green wire, if you short that to a nearby black wire, the power supply will turn on. (for use as a bench supply or whatever)
  • @ ButtFuzz:
    And IIRC, the purple wire is -12VDC, but that is from memory and it does not serve.
  • @ ButtFuzz:
    So if you need, say, 7v, connect + to the Yellow wire and - to the Red wire.
  • @ ButtFuzz:
    or or you need 9v connect + to the yellow wire and - to the orange wire. note: not all PSU's have the orange wire nowadays, as many manufactures had the voltage regulation on the motherboard, and all the power supply gives is 12 vdc
  • @ BJ radionut:
    Thanks ROB will check it out!~!! got to clean the work bench a little make room for that big case :)