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Strange
- Thread starter Ziploc
- Start date
behind the seat against the wall,,, paint took off and dieletric grease applied,,, i use one of these to make my grounds,, havent had a problem with it in years,, this is in my 1999 ranger,, blazer goes to battery though,,,
Test locations present. If you don’t like them, make one.
Firewall to frame (or unit body above subframe).
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Tom Rauch —W8JI— covers that one in a short article on his website.
The MARINCO 3% Voltage Drop Chart and k0bg on the subject of power wiring cover the rest.
There are some Power devices sorta guaranteeing a set voltage. MFJ or WEST MOUNTAIN.
Wanting a giant amp ain’t really gonna do much for Eleven Meter AM/SSB mobile. IMO, 50W gets you all the base hits you want, but past 200W (true) ain’t any home run guarantee. 120-150W is it.
Reasonable amplification goes hand-in-hand with reasonable audio filtration. Hear, and Get Heard. The point to having both is to overcome the deficiencies of other mobile units on the road.
Just the past week (escaping and now chasing this damned winter storm) there’s been much more than the usual CB chatter.
On a daily basis I run into 2-3 BIG RADIOS!! that have pinholes for ears.
They’re worthless.
They don’t have a more difficult vehicle to work with, RX or TX.
They can’t hear farther than the barefoot guy.
So why can I hear them, but they not hear me?
(It’s not a problem that a 5% voltage drop remedy will fix.)
This is also not car audio driving multiple speakers with a concern about dynamic range (Saint-Saens Symphony 3; post-1964 “music” has no range). That’s a huge instant amp demand. I defy it’s the same.
An antenna system optimized for the band or bands (tuner included if multiple) is where the real work goes.
The vehicle can be improved over factory in some aspects, but it also ought to have a separate dedicated battery for Radio. (Audio matters. Clean audio).
I’d be more concerned with the passenger compartment wiring distribution & harness than where a central ground point should be located. Almost any will do.
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So here the latest. I check the seat bolt with Dmm. Ohms set to 20 I touched probes together reading 0.2 . Ran one to negative terminal to battery other lead to seat bolt were eye lug is bolted to bracket. That reading was 0.2 so that’s 0.00 which is a great ground.
Yes thanks you all. I might now re do my positive cable run to battery from Anderson clip to 6 awg as well. With my comp 29 and 2 pill 1446 at idle I still see a lil draw for power , however thinking this might be normal?
That's pretty much exactly what I did.
I ran my ground for the second battery through the CT, it's the only way your charging system will see the load and kick up the voltage and current.
What is your definition of "draw"? You should notice current draw when your amp is running, means she's working, though 2X1446 shouldn't draw much....it takes current to make power....no current, no power.
How long is your 6 AWG run? Over distance, you'll have voltage drop, the wire will get hotter, causing resistance, limiting current to your amp, thus starving your system. If I can explain this right...the current draw at the beginning (at the battery) will not be what the amp is getting because of the above mentioned issues. You'll see, let's say 30 amps at the battery connection but only 25 at the load, 5 amps are being converted to heat instead of useful power (think I said that right) ... I'm using 4 AWG for my amp, it's between a 9-10' run....it works great for my 1X4 and of course, everything smaller.
My 2017 GMC Sierra does that, I'll have to run the RPMs up to 12-1500 to prevent it. The ground looks fine, especially if you're getting .02/0.0 ohms, I will say this, you can have 0.0 ohms until you put a load on it, then if it's not solid, the resistance will increase, the lug will get hot and your ground becomes a current drain, but as long as everything is tight, that should be a non-issue. . Your ground sounds good, as short as possible is the rule.
How long is your positive run?
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Shadetree Mechanic
Delaware Base Station 808
The true test of your seat bolt ground is to measure the voltage at the amplifier when you hit the key. It is possible to have a connection that looks good when checking resistance because it has no load. A situation like this could deliver adequate average power out of the amp, but peak power would be lower than rated.
Or you can say that it works ok so that means that it's good. If you're not worried about it being the best that it can be, then what it is, is good enough. I am not trying to be snarky, I am just letting you know how I look at it. You can run your stuff however you want, we will always be here to help.
Chris
Or you can say that it works ok so that means that it's good. If you're not worried about it being the best that it can be, then what it is, is good enough. I am not trying to be snarky, I am just letting you know how I look at it. You can run your stuff however you want, we will always be here to help.
Chris
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