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Strange
- Thread starter Ziploc
- Start date
Shadetree Mechanic
Delaware Base Station 808
I would run the ground to the battery. Or through the floor to the frame. Anywhere to the body, like seat bolt relies on the spot welds of the panels to get back to the battery. Small devices have no problem, but big loads will need more. Yeah, it might work. Might have no problems that you can see. I would put a volt meter on the amp and key it up and talk. See what the voltage drop is and figure out what is acceptable to you. Me, I would want as little voltage drop as possible. As if the amp were mounted at the battery would be my goal.
Seat bolts and seat belt bolts have been known to have Lock-Tite applied to them for obvious reasons. Never tested Lock-Tite for conduction but could be an "insulator" or partial insulator as the metal to metal contact is impeded?
Shadetree Mechanic is correct about the number of spot welds, panel sealant etc.
Directly tied to the battery is always best but you do encounter the voltage drop (positive cable) issue with longer cables or higher resistance to ground on the negative side of the power supply with the longer cables.
73
David
Shadetree Mechanic is correct about the number of spot welds, panel sealant etc.
Directly tied to the battery is always best but you do encounter the voltage drop (positive cable) issue with longer cables or higher resistance to ground on the negative side of the power supply with the longer cables.
73
David
Shadetree Mechanic
Delaware Base Station 808
With car audio, it's normal to be in a situation where the power to run an amplifier costs more than the amplifier itself. A lot depends on the effeciency of the amplifier too.
You're still having trouble?
As said earlier, RF ground and the Seat Belt Bolt - ONE NEEDS A GOOD GROUND - the other CAN YOU TRUST BEING A GOOD GROUND?
IF you can not figure out that simple equation, then try it and see - if you are tooling down the road and hear a friend come over the radio calling for you - you gonna' answer? OR is your friend just going to hear a loud BOOM when you key up?
If you have to put that amp so close to you so you can play with those switches while you drive, then we cannot help you when and if it goes wrong.
As said earlier, RF ground and the Seat Belt Bolt - ONE NEEDS A GOOD GROUND - the other CAN YOU TRUST BEING A GOOD GROUND?
IF you can not figure out that simple equation, then try it and see - if you are tooling down the road and hear a friend come over the radio calling for you - you gonna' answer? OR is your friend just going to hear a loud BOOM when you key up?
The poster and WorldWideDX.Com
assumes no responsibility for poor decision making...
It's as simple as good layout and bonding...nothing more...assumes no responsibility for poor decision making...
If you have to put that amp so close to you so you can play with those switches while you drive, then we cannot help you when and if it goes wrong.
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And as is the same with RF amps, a lot of people do not even consider this part of it.
Heavy wire to the Frame should solve the problem with out going all the way up to the battery.
Look for and check the ground going to the block from the batt negative and from the block to the frame.
73
Jeff
In my pickup I ran A heavy neg wire from the 8 pill, through a plug in the cab to the frame.
The b+ ran from the battery up front to the amp.
It was 2|0 welding cable, maybe overkill, but I had a lot of it on hand at the time.
There should be a factory ground cable from the block to the frame.
I have never had a problem using the frame for ground.
Make sure you clean the connection point down to bare metal.
73
Jeff
The b+ ran from the battery up front to the amp.
It was 2|0 welding cable, maybe overkill, but I had a lot of it on hand at the time.
There should be a factory ground cable from the block to the frame.
I have never had a problem using the frame for ground.
Make sure you clean the connection point down to bare metal.
73
Jeff
old story,,, years and years and years ago,,,, the seat bolt and i am saying seat bolt and not safety belt bolt because all cars didnt have seat belts then,,, one way to tell if the seat was well grounded was when it would get dry in the winter scooting across the seat and touching the dash or horn button on steering column ya would get a static shock,,, years later in my 2001 blazer i had to install antistatic straps to drag the ground because i got tired of the shock from touching the key switch,,, straps on shock gone,,,,
I grounded my amp to the rear seat bolt in my truck, I also ran a ground strap from the frame to the bolt (about 8") and used Kopr-Shield on all connections. Also, the nuts and bolts usually have a coating on them to prevent corrosion, this has to be removed as it is not conductive and will have you scratching you head.