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UNIDEN PRO-505XL: The Most Bang For The Buck;

Onthecoast said:
I have two. One is still unopened. The other seems to have really high volume if you even turn the volume control at all. That kind of bothered me. With all the skip out there I really like having the ability to turn down RF gain. I don't care for DX on CB at all and really only use this kind of radio for trail rides and such where local with as little noise as possible is key.
Click to expand...

I wonder if there's a way to put a VR pot with an externally adjustable knob to control the receive sensitivity?
 
High pitched vehicle whine bleeding on Uniden PRO505 XL

Here's a short video I published on YouTube of the high pitched whine that I can hear over my transceivers in my SUV. It's not so bad with the CRE-8900 while the NB/ANL is engaged. With the little Uniden it's a major ordeal. I'm just wondering if anyone has a clue what might be causing it?
Note that I haven't grounded the exhaust system yet. I was planning on doing that when I do a rear brake job. The whine doesn't change pitch with engine revs. The whine momentarily drops down an octave when the A/C clutch engages and the computer tells the engine to idle up and when I turn the highlights on.
Heater fan noise only comes through radio's speaker when on it's highest setting. It doesn't matter if hood is open or closed.
The SUV has;
1. Engine computer under dash
2. Crank and cam electro-mechanical sensors.
3. Alternator
4. Fuel tank mounted electric fuel pump
iPhone video file instead of YouTube.
 
High pitched vehicle whine bleeding on Uniden PRO505 XL

Here's a short video I published on YouTube of the high pitched whine that I can hear over my transceivers in my SUV. It's not so bad with the CRE-8900 while the NB/ANL is engaged. With the little Uniden it's a major ordeal. I'm just wondering if anyone has a clue what might be causing it?
Note that I haven't grounded the exhaust system yet. I was planning on doing that when I do a rear brake job. The whine doesn't change pitch with engine revs. The whine momentarily drops down an octave when the A/C clutch engages and the computer tells the engine to idle up and when I turn the highlights on.
Heater fan noise only comes through radio's speaker when on it's highest setting. It doesn't matter if hood is open or closed.
The SUV has;
1. Engine computer under dash
2. Crank and cam electro-mechanical sensors.
3. Alternator
4. Fuel tank mounted electric fuel pump
Uniden PRO505 XL - YouTube
 
I would say it is the fuel pump. I have the same problem in my S10 2003 pickup. the pitch changes some as the fuel pump changes with engine speed and certain items happen as you stated the torque convertor clutch . when I slow down it will change just a little for a few seconds then back up as I set at a stop light.
 
I agree with Sonoma. Have the same fuel pump noise issue with my Hyundai Accent. A member of another forum named Roadrage recommended ferrite chokes, and I've been experimenting with them. Have had moderate success on the battery side of the power lines to the CB. He also recommended putting a ferrite choke on the power wires for the fuel pump as the best bet. He advised me to get them as close as possible to the pump and it should kill any RFI it is producing. Will be having my mechanic add them next time the car is at the shop.
 
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Mark IV said:
I agree with Sonoma. Have the same fuel pump noise issue with my Hyundai Accent. Turn off the key and it goes away. I've been experimenting with ferrite chokes with moderate success.
Click to expand...

M42Duster would have tips on that. I'm fixing to ground my exhaust system in an attempt to cut out all those electro-mechanical sensor and some spark plug noise. I keep the NB/ANL switched on my CRE-8900. However with the Uniden, it doesn't have one. The two NIB 33 yr old Realistic radios I bought have ANL.
I think M42Duster put his noise suppression things at the fuel pump. I would have to drop my tank unless I can stem the fuel pump noise where the wire comes out from hiding. I did the same with my A/C fan. Instead of putting a cap right where the leads come out from the motor,I installed the cap at the fan plug to vehicle harness connection. Now to take off all those chokes I still have on it. I could use one more choke at my windshield wiper motor. Either that or put a cap on the leads.
 

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Lil'Yeshua said:
Just tried it out with my Xtreme 2018 mic on it. Sounds good!
Tested it out to a local 6 miles away with a fellow CB'er who's talking in a Cobra 89. I'm putting 8 S-Units on him. Same as my CRE-8900 does.
Note: the fellow CB'er just acquired his cobra in a trade so the his readings may not be accurate.
Modulation is good. The 505's modulation is 90-95% so a power mic gives it good volume.
Even though the stock mic is made in China,it has a nice feel to it and has a knock out plug for channel buttons on top.
Haven't checked power output readings yet but a 30 watt PEP should be what it does.
Click to expand...


A local runs a beautiful Browning Eagle on his base and he was testing a Realistic 422A he paid $3 for at a yard sale. Both radios were putting the same signal on my radio's S meter......wow what a deal!!!!!!! LMAO!
 
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My brother checked my 505 against my CRE-8900 at Ten miles away.
The 8900 put out 4 1/2 S-Units,my 505 showed 3 S-Units.
Not much difference between.

My bro lives in a depressed area of land. So with trees and other obstacles between us the signal is attenuated even more.

A power mic on the 505 is definantly a must especially for distance or noisy conditions
 
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Lil'Yeshua said:
My brother checked my 505 against my CRE-8900 at Ten miles away.
The 8900 put out 4 1/2 S-Units,my 505 showed 3 S-Units.
Not much difference between.

My bro lives in a depressed area of land. So with trees and other obstacles between us the signal is attenuated even more.

A power mic on the 505 is definantly a must especially for distance or noisy conditions
Click to expand...



Nowadays I don't know of many areas that aren't depressed. :laugh:
 
Needs a Heatsink

I'm thinking that I might have to put a heat sink on the back of my Uniden 505. The 505's back panel gets pretty hot after extended talking while using my 2018 Xtreme. Of course that means relocating the FCC type accepted label.
Anybody else getting good performance numbers out of their 505's?
:D
 
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I emailed DTB Radio this morning about sending him some more business.
Also I used my RoadPro power/swr meter to check on the 505's state of tune and realized that the meter is a piece of junk especially after I zeroed the needle and then on purpose tapped the meter pretty good to see if it would hold. The needle just slid down. Note: I pulled the meter out from the housing and used a knife to drill a hole in front of the needle adjust screw in order to access the needle zero screw. This is a rarely used meter that's only a few months old. :mad:
Looks like a Diawa meter is in my future.

In Road Pro's defense the meter isn't made readily to adjust and after adjusting the needle zero,it would probably need some sort if loctite on it.
 

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