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Who else Hand Loads for their Shootin Iron?
- Thread starter Tallman
- Start date
DXman
Yes, that's 3100 degrees F. Nine yrs of hard work.
I use to reload the "nickel plated" casings, tried them in the '06 & 270, but the problem was they never would stretch properly in the chamber. On the 270 the necks were constantly black from "blow by" (necks not expanding). Even on a "over pressure" load, they still were black, so I just quit using them.
I have never seen Bench Rest shooters using them, even the scrap yard won't take them in for scrap.
When using nickel plated cases you neck size only and you should anneal the cases before use.
DXman
Yes, that's 3100 degrees F. Nine yrs of hard work.
Oh I have done the neck size thing many times, I fired some of the 270 casing 5 times and only neck sized, but the head space never moved. But for me, there is no reason to anneal any casing that is going to be used just for hunting. Brass is lots easier to work with and expands in the chamber better than the nickels.
To prove your point about being easier to work with, I have noting but brass here at my house. Sold the nickel plated to a guy that was just like a giddy school girl when he saw them.
DXman
Yes, that's 3100 degrees F. Nine yrs of hard work.
Ya, I threw all my nickel casing away too.
For the last 35 yrs I have gotten all my rifle casings free, I would get them from the rifle range, all once fired, but clean. Only exception was I had to buy my 22-250's, none of them were to be found at the range.
I have sold lots of brass casing to the scrap yard here, one time I turned in 1500 - 30'06 casings and I still kept 200 for myself. All in all, I've sold 80 lbs of casings that I just didn't need back to the scrap yard.
Also lots of money to be made in the Weatherby casings.
Tallman, do you use either one of these tools?
For the last 35 yrs I have gotten all my rifle casings free, I would get them from the rifle range, all once fired, but clean. Only exception was I had to buy my 22-250's, none of them were to be found at the range.
I have sold lots of brass casing to the scrap yard here, one time I turned in 1500 - 30'06 casings and I still kept 200 for myself. All in all, I've sold 80 lbs of casings that I just didn't need back to the scrap yard.
Also lots of money to be made in the Weatherby casings.
Tallman, do you use either one of these tools?
S&W357
$upporting Member KO4RJD....WDX-556
I’ve never loaded any nickeled rifle cases, only some for handguns. Seem to me like the nickel plated ones crack around the case mouth after shooting several times. Regular brass seems better to me.
Especially if you’re putting a heavy roll crimp on a big, fat cast bullet.
I use a primer pocket brush in a dremel tool. No need to use the pocket reamer unless it is military brass.
I also measure the length of the brass and trim just to meet basic specification.
That's why I spend so much time inspecting the cases,brass or plated.
I also measure the length of the brass and trim just to meet basic specification.
DXman
Yes, that's 3100 degrees F. Nine yrs of hard work.
Well actually there is, many times I have found some primers will fit very hard and would have to be a "crush" fit. So crushing the primer is not really a good thing to do, but using the "primer pocket uniformer" will make every primer pocket the same depth - thus no more crush primers.
There has been some brass (new) that I could not even get the primer to seat flush with the pocket, so I would have to knock the primer out and use the uniformer, then the primer would fit perfect.
Some Federal primers that I have used, have been very hard and thus require a lot of force to seat into new casings, so now I use a drill with the uniformer and a quick 3 second burst and it's done. It's one time thing, never have to do it again!
Just another part of Precision reloading.......
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