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Anytone AT-900 Pro

Is the black face the anytone branded one? Are they available? That's a good looking radio.
The black one is a factory sample, however it is identical to the Abbree version. It is only the LCD start-up screen (picture), and the sticker on the microphone that changes between any of the "brands".

IIRC, AnyTone originally planned to keep the black version available for other brands only, such as Abbree.

AnyTone have not supplied their own brand to the market yet in either color (maybe they won't if their ODM customers move enough quantity).
 
Anything above 40 or below channel 1 used to be called freebanding.
That's the name I was trying to think of ( Freebanding ). I was out of radioing about 30 years because of poverty. Trying to get the necessities for the wife and kids so radio took a back seat. Now the kids are on their own and doing good & no more wife so I can have as much fun as my location allows ! LOL
 
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Yes sir, that is the plan. I just need to figure out how to cut the lids without messing up the paint. I wish I knew someone with a water jet table. It might not need the top lid if it is mounted in the can. I will have to see what I can come up with.

Here is a link to my ammo can thread:
Thread 'Ammo Can Portable Radio' https://www.worldwidedx.com/threads/ammo-can-portable-radio.265314/
If it is going to live out it's life in a ammo can just use a little paint on the cut areas and have fun !
 
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The black one is a factory sample, however it is identical to the Abbree version. It is only the LCD start-up screen (picture), and the sticker on the microphone that changes between any of the "brands".
I should clarify what I said here - There are two core firmware versions - one is for FCC, and the other version (recently added) includes the UK FM band + multi-norms for the European markets.
 
I just purchased a 900PRO. I downloaded the user manual. Is the RF POWER OUT adjustable ?? Manual doesn't mention it, and I didn't read all 3 pages of this thread. So. if someone posted how to do it, Lo Siento.

- J.J. 399
 
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I just purchased a 900PRO. I downloaded the user manual. Is the RF POWER OUT adjustable ?? Manual doesn't mention it, and I didn't read all 3 pages of this thread. So. if someone posted how to do it, Lo Siento.

- J.J. 399
I think after you move the jumper, the menu will let you select two different power levels.
 
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There might be a way, but I have not seen it yet.
There is a way.
Here is what I know. They are set up a lot like an export. They can take an NPC mod. This radio was a pain in the @ss to figure out because the board is a multilayer. We have it doing 30 watts PEP with clean modulation and have figured out how to lower the dead key to 1-2 watts with the same 30 watts PEP swing. The audio is VERY anemic out of the box! It took some time to figure out how to open the audio and make it right, not flat topping, but we have figured that out. It uses a common TDA2003 audio chip. The audio on this radio is like digital. The radio transmits the signal a split second after it has been processed. Therefore, the talkback takes a little getting used to. It will really mess with your head if you listen to it on a monitor radio. The echo is OK as is the talkback. Not the best, but for the price, what do you expect? It will accept a dynamic or elect mic. It has 6 gay roger beeps built in. You will not hear them in the talkback unless the key beep is on. The most un-annoying one is 6. The echo sounds good at 2 volume and 2 delay. Like most of the radios built by these guys, including some of the Stryker Radios, the talkback does not exactly represent what you hear over the air. If you set the echo level to what sounds good to your ear on the talkback.......no one will want to talk to you because you will sound like a total d!pSh!t, Freightliner Crapscadia driving, wannabe Chicken Haulers that like to play hide the pickle with his male codriver. Simply put, its WAY overdone if you don't know where to set it! Simply move the jumper on the PCB to obtain 10 bands of 45 frequencies. A dot will appear between the 2 digits in the display when you are on an alpha channel. When we do the "power modifications" to it, it does not like the wide pool of frequency. It falls on its face after 20 channels either direction from where you center the tune of the radio. I'm sure there has to be a hidden menu in this radio, but we haven't figured out where it is or how to access it yet. This may rectify the situation with the power, but I'm not sure. There is also only so much you can do to the power because the radio runs on a regulator. It will support 12-24 volts which is awesome because you can easily hook it up to most heavy equipment without purchasing a stepdown converter. We did get more power out of the IRFZ24N final in it, but we had to bypass the radio voltage regulation and volt the final. Doing this will not allow you to put up to 24 V input into the radio. Frankly, it wasn't worth the time to do that and it was only done on our testing radio and we have since removed that mod. We have been beating the hell out of it on the bench for the last 3 weeks to work out the bugs. I like the square inductors in the PA section. It has a settable SWR bridge that will flash warning when the SWR is over what you set it at. The VOX is actually easy to use. If you are in a noisy truck, you will want to probably wire a noise canceling mic for it and turn the sensitivity up to about 6 or 7. The weather function is spot on. I like the operation of it. You can set the PA to different functions. It has the ability to change the display to different meter types. The mic it comes with is elect. It has the same wiring as cobra 4 pin but you can add a switch to change channels like you can for a Stryker if you know the secret sauce. The stock mic is very sensitive. It can pick up a fly fart at fifty feet. The 7808 and 7805 regulators run VERY HOT. My test radio has TO220s mounted on the chassis wall. 180 degrees on the 7808 IMO is way too hot. For the guy wanting to put in the ammo can, just simply remove the face and mount the face in the side of the can. It is easily made into a remote head. Your "cut out", fold the metal inside the box and use 4 screws with spacers to mount the head to the can, use the mounting bracket to mount the radio inside the can to the inner wall.
That's about all I can say about it. 73s
 
Last edited:
There is a way.
Here is what I know. They are set up a lot like an export. They can take an NPC mod. This radio was a pain in the @ss to figure out because the board is a multilayer. We have it doing 30 watts PEP with clean modulation and have figured out how to lower the dead key to 1-2 watts with the same 30 watts PEP swing. The audio is VERY anemic out of the box! It took some time to figure out how to open the audio and make it right, not flat topping, but we have figured that out. It uses a common TDA2003 audio chip. The audio on this radio is like digital. The radio transmits the signal a split second after it has been processed. Therefore, the talkback takes a little getting used to. It will really mess with your head if you listen to it on a monitor radio. The echo is OK as is the talkback. Not the best, but for the price, what do you expect? It will accept a dynamic or elect mic. It has 6 gay roger beeps built in. You will not hear them in the talkback unless the key beep is on. The most un-annoying one is 6. The echo sounds good at 2 volume and 2 delay. Like most of the radios built by these guys, including some of the Stryker Radios, the talkback does not exactly represent what you hear over the air. If you set the echo level to what sounds good to your ear on the talkback.......no one will want to talk to you because you will sound like a total d!pSh!t, Freightliner Crapscadia driving, wannabe Chicken Haulers that like to play hide the pickle with his male codriver. Simply put, its WAY overdone if you don't know where to set it! Simply move the jumper on the PCB to obtain 10 bands of 45 frequencies. A dot will appear between the 2 digits in the display when you are on an alpha channel. When we do the "power modifications" to it, it does not like the wide pool of frequency. It falls on its face after 20 channels either direction from where you center the tune of the radio. I'm sure there has to be a hidden menu in this radio, but we haven't figured out where it is or how to access it yet. This may rectify the situation with the power, but I'm not sure. There is also only so much you can do to the power because the radio runs on a regulator. It will support 12-24 volts which is awesome because you can easily hook it up to most heavy equipment without purchasing a stepdown converter. We did get more power out of the IRFZ24N final in it, but we had to bypass the radio voltage regulation and volt the final. Doing this will not allow you to put up to 24 V input into the radio. Frankly, it wasn't worth the time to do that and it was only done on our testing radio and we have since removed that mod. We have been beating the hell out of it on the bench for the last 3 weeks to work out the bugs. I like the square inductors in the PA section. It has a settable SWR bridge that will flash warning when the SWR is over what you set it at. The VOX is actually easy to use. If you are in a noisy truck, you will want to probably wire a noise canceling mic for it and turn the sensitivity up to about 6 or 7. The weather function is spot on. I like the operation of it. You can set the PA to different functions. It has the ability to change the display to different meter types. The mic it comes with is elect. It has the same wiring as cobra 4 pin but you can add a switch to change channels like you can for a Stryker if you know the secret sauce. The stock mic is very sensitive. It can pick up a fly fart at fifty feet. The 7808 and 7805 regulators run VERY HOT. My test radio has TO220s mounted on the chassis wall. 180 degrees on the 7808 IMO is way too hot. For the guy wanting to put in the ammo can, just simply remove the face and mount the face in the side of the can. It is easily made into a remote head. Your "cut out", fold the metal inside the box and use 4 screws with spacers to mount the head to the can, use the mounting bracket to mount the radio inside the can to the inner wall.
That's about all I can say about it. 73s
Thanks for the info, the NPC mod would be interesting. I was able to cut the chassis down and it came out pretty good.

 

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