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Best Amp for 95t2 "new or old"
- Thread starter 70cst
- Start date
You need an 8-12 transistor amp for that radio. With 150 watts output, that would be almost 4 times the actual power needed to drive a 4 pill. And about 2 times the power needed to drive a 6 pill amp. Not saying it won't work, you'll just be over driving most any 4 or 6 pill amp with that radio. JMHO. With an 8 pill you would be pushing each transistor at almost 2 times the actual needed power of 10 watts per transistor. Like I said, it might work on a 4-6 pill amp, but the amp will get hot and most likely have an early life. Those radios are a 150 watt plus radio. Don't need that much drive for a 4 pill amp. Just need about 40-60 watts max for a good 4 pill. About the same for a 6 pill.
I'm sure some will argue. But the real techs will tell you the truth. Clean is mean. Over driving an amp equals a splatter box!! JMHO's. And I am no expert.
My uniden 980 makes my TNT 600 HD with toshiba 2879's work just fine. My optima mk3 with a pep of about 50-60 watts is the max I'll drive it with. Anymore and I know the amp won't last as long. You don't have to believe me, look up the spec sheets on a toshiba 2879. See what the actual needed input is to get full power out. And I don't mean dosy watts either. Again, these are JMO's. Hope it helps. Have a good one.
I'm sure some will argue. But the real techs will tell you the truth. Clean is mean. Over driving an amp equals a splatter box!! JMHO's. And I am no expert.
My uniden 980 makes my TNT 600 HD with toshiba 2879's work just fine. My optima mk3 with a pep of about 50-60 watts is the max I'll drive it with. Anymore and I know the amp won't last as long. You don't have to believe me, look up the spec sheets on a toshiba 2879. See what the actual needed input is to get full power out. And I don't mean dosy watts either. Again, these are JMO's. Hope it helps. Have a good one.
You can bring down the output via variable power on this rig, so just about any amp without a driver transistor ought to be fine. Texas Star DX500, X Force T600D, or whatever you like. I tend to stop at a 4 pill to avoid having to add an extra battery, bigger alternator, and all the things that go along with that ($$$$). Keeping the drive down on our 95T should help it live a longer life, too.
Still love your truck, 70cst!
73,
Brett
Still love your truck, 70cst!
73,
Brett
The older amps with toshiba transistors would be what to look for. But even then an older TNT 600hd like the one I have with toshiba 2879's will draw almost 100 amps on peaks. Keep this in mind when installing even a 4 pill amp. Make sure you have a good alternator. Something that is at least over 120 amps. But that is JMHO. And yes you will need to lower the power if you plan on going this route. If not then an 8 pill minimum would be required. And that is a lot more work thank a 4 pill just like 2RT307 stated. Hope you got the answers you needed and always keep it clean and mean!!
Have a good evening.
Have a good evening.
With 50-150 watts of output do not bother wasting your time unless you plan on going up to 600 to 1500 watts. I am guessing it does 50-75 watts rms on am and swings. 150-200 PEP on SSB??
I would consider having something built to order. If you want it mobile than we are primarily talking 12V transistors right? My choices would be 6 transistor's if using 2879's, 2290's, MRF454's even high beta units with no driver. If you step up to MRF421's you could get away with 4 of them since they top out at 16 watts input drive each and can with stand 28V but I do not like to run gear that hard.
I would insist on class AB or B at the very least! Even with SSB delay a class C device is unacceptable if you actually use SSB. no matter what the builder says insist on class B a the very least and AB prefered. Have them build it with a heat sink and case large enough for double that number of transistors this way you do not need to mess around with fans or worry about over heating the finals as they cycle between class A,B and C as heat and drive fluctuates. Demand Toshiba, Macon, Motorola or ST Micro transistors no chinese clones run away from anything with DEI or PP100 tranistors if you want long life out of the amp. Make sure they use teflon wire inside and Amidon transformer cores and name brand resistors and capacitors resistors are so cheap that it is not worth it to use cheap ones and have the amp blow in one year because a resistor failed and took out at least one transistor considering you need to have matching hfe's.
If this is for home use well the options open up a lot since size and space and voltage is not an issue given 120 to 220 volts to play with. Then you could go tube or 50V-100V LDMOS etc....The 50V-100V LDMOS units for mobile use are huge by none keydown user standards so a standard cab pickup would not fit one. You also have 50V to think about should you have an accident. Some them though are tested to 67:1 swr repeated going from open no load to short over and over and over again at full output. In FM use I have seen some people cut a can in half with the output kind of like you could with a stick welder with the amperage turned up too high. High voltage LDMOS is the way of the future but right now I am not sure people outside ham's and keydown guys are embracing them just yet. Depending on which one you go with you can be looking at 500-1500 watts with 1 transistor depending on the mode of operation. Most of them come to life with 2 watts input and most 2-4 LDMOS units top out at 100 watts input drive depending on which one we are talking about and what the voltage is your running it at. The gain is proportional to the input voltage. You also have the older 28V LDMOS's but when looking at output power, gain and durability it is hard to choose them based on price per-performance. The new guys like the BLF188XR and other's have two transistors on a single die so each one is push-pull with in it's own design and you can still add more also in push pull. It woudl be like having 2 MRF150's on a single die in push pull with each one only working half the time depending on mode. Really cool stuff.
I would consider having something built to order. If you want it mobile than we are primarily talking 12V transistors right? My choices would be 6 transistor's if using 2879's, 2290's, MRF454's even high beta units with no driver. If you step up to MRF421's you could get away with 4 of them since they top out at 16 watts input drive each and can with stand 28V but I do not like to run gear that hard.
I would insist on class AB or B at the very least! Even with SSB delay a class C device is unacceptable if you actually use SSB. no matter what the builder says insist on class B a the very least and AB prefered. Have them build it with a heat sink and case large enough for double that number of transistors this way you do not need to mess around with fans or worry about over heating the finals as they cycle between class A,B and C as heat and drive fluctuates. Demand Toshiba, Macon, Motorola or ST Micro transistors no chinese clones run away from anything with DEI or PP100 tranistors if you want long life out of the amp. Make sure they use teflon wire inside and Amidon transformer cores and name brand resistors and capacitors resistors are so cheap that it is not worth it to use cheap ones and have the amp blow in one year because a resistor failed and took out at least one transistor considering you need to have matching hfe's.
If this is for home use well the options open up a lot since size and space and voltage is not an issue given 120 to 220 volts to play with. Then you could go tube or 50V-100V LDMOS etc....The 50V-100V LDMOS units for mobile use are huge by none keydown user standards so a standard cab pickup would not fit one. You also have 50V to think about should you have an accident. Some them though are tested to 67:1 swr repeated going from open no load to short over and over and over again at full output. In FM use I have seen some people cut a can in half with the output kind of like you could with a stick welder with the amperage turned up too high. High voltage LDMOS is the way of the future but right now I am not sure people outside ham's and keydown guys are embracing them just yet. Depending on which one you go with you can be looking at 500-1500 watts with 1 transistor depending on the mode of operation. Most of them come to life with 2 watts input and most 2-4 LDMOS units top out at 100 watts input drive depending on which one we are talking about and what the voltage is your running it at. The gain is proportional to the input voltage. You also have the older 28V LDMOS's but when looking at output power, gain and durability it is hard to choose them based on price per-performance. The new guys like the BLF188XR and other's have two transistors on a single die so each one is push-pull with in it's own design and you can still add more also in push pull. It woudl be like having 2 MRF150's on a single die in push pull with each one only working half the time depending on mode. Really cool stuff.
I would rather run the best antenna I could with that radio and wait for conditions to improve rather that try to re-invent that vehicle's electrical system and drill an antenna hole to accommodate - for just a few more local calls. If this is a company vehicle; then you have already done your best. Congrats.
Having owned a 95t2, I would also consider making sure modulation is squeaky clean and your vehicle/antenna is optimally mounted. Powered directly from the battery with heavy gauge wire/fuses too. The 95t2's are notorious for over-modulation and work best with a noise-cancelling mic - IMO. Forget using the modulation indicator lamp as any kind of gauge - as well; it is not a scope . . .
Having owned a 95t2, I would also consider making sure modulation is squeaky clean and your vehicle/antenna is optimally mounted. Powered directly from the battery with heavy gauge wire/fuses too. The 95t2's are notorious for over-modulation and work best with a noise-cancelling mic - IMO. Forget using the modulation indicator lamp as any kind of gauge - as well; it is not a scope . . .
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I have to agree with Robb on this one as well, even though I have given some other options. Best thing to do is get your antenna system the best it can be and use that 100-200 watts of power to make what contacts that are even out there! The band is just dead!! 11 meters that is! Not sure where you are, but local talk is going to be about the gist of it these days. And if you're lucky you'll get some long distance local stuff, 2-400 miles. That is harder to do than shooting regular DX! With things the way they are, the only good thing of all of this is many are getting rid of their stuff. With that said, just be on the lookout for a good amp. Something 6 transistors or more unless you truly turn the power back a bunch. And know this, a class AB biased amp won't need much drive at all to make it work properly versus a class C amp. This means a radio like the one you have isn't going to work well with anything below an 8-12 transistor amp. JMO's. I'm not an amp expert or don't claim to be, but have seen and messed with my share of them. And at the moment I don't care if you have 1-2000 watts, with no one on the other end to hear it, it's a waste. Again, JMHO. Get that antenna system as best as you possibly can and make sure your grounded, bonded, mounted, and powered correctly. A good battery, and good bonding of the entire vehicle including the exhaust will be key to your success at the moment. JMHO's. I will say this, if you do run across a good deal on an old amp that is worthy, have a good look at it and snatch it up for future use. But don't go springing for a new amp at the moment as it's just not worth it. JMHO's man.
73 and God Bless from
222 Daytona Beach, FL.
Sean
73 and God Bless from
222 Daytona Beach, FL.
Sean
I will be using a Messenger MV4 with a Siro 3/8 Mag Mount antenna. The MV4 will give me plenty of power at low power usage - plus it will be a clear transmission. I will be having switch installed with ability to turn off internal amp with DK about 1.5 w - 2 w. Thanks for the info.
Attachments
This would work.
http://www.xforceamps.com/item/Straight-6Pill---Biased---Xtra-Duty---Hi-Drive---T1200HD-M-166
Or this.
http://www.xforceamps.com/item/Straight-8Pill---Biased---Hi-Drive---T1500HD-M-168
This will work only if you keep things dialed back.
http://www.xforceamps.com/item/Straight-4Pill---Biased---Xtra-Duty---Hi-Drive---T600HD-163
http://www.xforceamps.com/item/Straight-6Pill---Biased---Xtra-Duty---Hi-Drive---T1200HD-M-166
Or this.
http://www.xforceamps.com/item/Straight-8Pill---Biased---Hi-Drive---T1500HD-M-168
This will work only if you keep things dialed back.
http://www.xforceamps.com/item/Straight-4Pill---Biased---Xtra-Duty---Hi-Drive---T600HD-163
I'd recommend a 16 x 2sc2879 amp with genuine Toshiba transistors or 24 x dei 2879 transistors for breathing room .
For every 10 watts out of the radio I recommend one Toshiba 2sc2879
For every 10 watts out of the radio I recommend one Toshiba 2sc2879
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