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My old truck

Well, it's not my f250 but my 2010 Nissan frontier crew cab. I've been considering getting a camper shell for it because by the time I load the back seat down, I can't even lean the seat back to take a nap. I bought a waterproof bag threw it in the bed of the truck, and you guessed it, it wasn't all that waterproof. When I got to West Virginia I had a bag full of wet clothes. So I bit the bullet and ordered an ARE camper shell. They quoted me $ 2,472.50 . But I guess since I payed with cash he charged me $2,300.00 and told me Marry Christmas, their even painting it silver to match the truck. Only catch, is it may be 10 to 12 wks for it to come in. I figure I've made it this long without it a little longer won't kill me.
 
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Got all the bubbled up chrome off, sanded and primed. Tomorrow's plan is painting and installing the chrome inserts.
 
Did you just peel the chrome finish off? I would love to remove the chrome on my grill also.
Yes. It was bubbled up really bad in some places so I was able to poke a hole in the chrome a peel it off. I tried using my power washer to remove it but it didn't work, but it did force water underneath the chrome finish and loosen it up so it was easier to peel. Be careful that chrome finish is sharp, I have several cuts on my fingertips from peeling it off with no gloves. I got it painted today but the weather was cool and damp, so it was drying really slow. Thinking about wet sanding it and trying to get a better finish on it or just going with it because I'm most likely going to replace the grill at some point in the near future. It should be dry enough to put the chrome grill inserts in tomorrow but I'll have to go get some double sided adhesive to put the Ford emblem back on.

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Thinking about wet sanding it and trying to get a better finish on it or just going with it because I'm most likely going to replace the grill at some point in the near future. It should be dry enough to put the chrome grill inserts in tomorrow but I'll have to go get some double sided adhesive to put the Ford emblem back on.

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Just a thought, Wally. If you want the chrome finish and don't want to pay the price for a whole new grille, you might think about going to a custom car place and having your present grille vinyl wrapped. There is chrome vinyl wrap, and it'll look like new. Probably really less expensive.

- 399
 
Just a thought, Wally. If you want the chrome finish and don't want to pay the price for a whole new grille, you might think about going to a custom car place and having your present grille vinyl wrapped. There is chrome vinyl wrap, and it'll look like new. Probably really less expensive.

- 399
That's actually a really good idea! I never thought about a wrap!
 
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I'll have to wait for the roads to clear up before I test my theory. I recently put 20's on my 2006 f250 and had a death wobble problem arise. Everything I've searched says the 2019 rims will fit my 06. I put my stock wheels back on, take it back to the same spot on the hwy where the wobble occurs and nothing! Three passes through the rough spot and not even a wiggle. Took the truck back home, put it on the lift took the stock wheels back off and started to investigate. I noticed the 20's are slightly different, but like I said before according to all Google searches they are supposed to fit with no issues. I was using my old lug nuts from my stock wheels thought that might be the problem, so I ordered the correct lug nuts for the 20's but before I mounted the wheels I noticed there was a build up of dirt, road grime, salt and whatever else I've driven through so I'm thinking this was keeping the 20's from seating properly, the bevel on the 20's is slightly different from the stock wheels. So I scraped and cleaned all the crud off the hubs, put a thin coat of never seize on the back side of the rim to check if it was flush with the hub, it seem to set flush against the hub so I'm thinking the 8th of an inch of crud may have been my problem. So the 20's are on with the correct lug nuts just have to wait for the snow to clear up and take it back to the ruff spot on the highway. Hopefully I have no issues next time.
 
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Still have the wobble. I'm pretty sure my traction control arm is the problem. Anyway called my longtime friend and mechanic, he said to bring it over to his shop and he'd figure it out one way or another. We need to visit anyway it's been 2 years since we've seen each other, we've been friends since the first grade. We live so far apart it makes visiting a little tough. But we still stay in touch. In all honesty he's probably the one person in this world I can trust 100%
He's a Dodge mechanic and when I take my truck to him he always says hurry up and pull it in the shop before someone sees me working on a FORD!! LOL.
 
My trailer break control has been faulting out for awhile and has become very annoying. So after looking at a few videos it seems an easy repair, mostly solder joints failing over time. All my solder joints seem fine but I did have a bad capacitor, I figure it's best to replace all 3 caps and be done with it. I'm no electronic guru by any stretch of the imagination but my gut tells me that bad cap is my problem, plus it's swelled pretty noticeably. I thought, no problem I've got some caps, no such luck, I had one cap and not the value I need. Shouldn't be a problem to aquire what's needed.
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UPDATE!! For those interested, and those of you who are not, like they say in France O WELL! ( except they say it in French) :ROFLMAO: Seriously, Took the F250 to my buddies shop and he couldn't find anything wrong with the front end. So we switched the wheels around, front to back and the back to the front. STILL HAS THE WOBBLE! So now I've come to the conclusion that it's the rims or the tires. The tires aren't in the best of shape so I ordered $920 worth of 10 ply rubber. If I still have the wobble issue then I'll take the tires off the rims and scrap the rims. After that I don't what I'll do, go back to the stock rims I suppose.
 
Tires can make a big difference. I had a set of Maxim or something I bought for my truck while on vacation one year. They never did seem to balance and the truck seemed to have noise and shake. I was starting to look at transmission od rear end troubles when one of the tires came apart on a rescue mission. I decided to change all 6 tires, Yokahama's, and everything went away as far as noise and shaking etc. Drove like a new truck. Not sayin it was the tire brand that made the difference, but new rubber sure made a HUGE change.
I hope the tires cure your problem as it did mine.
 
Rims? Well, that might set you back a few bucks - but you should have seen some sort of cracking and or loss of paint in those hub areas. Tires can go flat from the cracks leaking air.

A simple tire iron thru the hub / spindle hole of the rim to see if it twists would show that...

The other concern is the HUBS, where the rotors and drums meet.

A loose stud bolt(s) can also cause that same issue - but you could have a h*ll of a time removing the bolts - but if the bolts are ok, are the rotors and drums frozen or come off pretty easily - or "start to come off but it hangs up"?

If inspections give you results like that, that is also a sign of worn hubs - or cracks in hub to drum/rotor faces.

I'm still leaning to a bad bushing that is in a hole that rusted - where it should have seated into the frame with a nut on the opposite side - but that link/arm or drag member bolt may be intact but the noise / support (read rubber to keep the road noise quiet) is shot and when you hit bumps that slack from the lost bushing is evident.
 
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Rims? Well, that might set you back a few bucks - but you should have seen some sort of cracking and or loss of paint in those hub areas. Tires can go flat from the cracks leaking air.

A simple tire iron thru the hub / spindle hole of the rim to see if it twists would show that...

The other concern is the HUBS, where the rotors and drums meet.

A loose stud bolt(s) can also cause that same issue - but you could have a h*ll of a time removing the bolts - but if the bolts are ok, are the rotors and drums frozen or come off pretty easily - or "start to come off but it hangs up"?

If inspections give you results like that, that is also a sign of worn hubs - or cracks in hub to drum/rotor faces.

I'm still leaning to a bad bushing that is in a hole that rusted - where it should have seated into the frame with a nut on the opposite side - but that link/arm or drag member bolt may be intact but the noise / support (read rubber to keep the road noise quiet) is shot and when you hit bumps that slack from the lost bushing is evident.
What's baffling to me is I can put my stock rims that came with the truck, and the tires are horrible, chopped up from driving with the front end worn-out ,almost bald ,put them back on and I can drive it down any rough road I choose, and it breezes through with out a hitch.
I don't know?? I've become very good friends with Big Red of Big Reds tire shopp, as we discussed my situation he said if I had aftermarket rims he would lean towards the rims being bad. But since these are Ford factory rims, same bolt pattern and all you'd think it's the tires especially since I used to run King Ranch 20's and had no issues. I wish I knew someone that had a set of factory Ford 20's that would let me use them on the same bad spot on the highway just to see what happens.
 
Think I got ya beat in the 'old' department..

First I love the upgrades and everything you've done with your superduty! Gotta keep the older ones around.

Here's mine, a '97 F350 with the 7.3 powerstroke. Zero rust. The doors are junk because of dumb people, and the dually fenders have, well they're down to their last life.
 

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