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Palomar RFX95HD
- Thread starter grimace
- Start date
Ramko sent me a flyer on it but I have yet to see it listed on their site. Someone said Bells had it on his site but IDK. I too am curious about it, might have to tie a counterweight off the front of the radio to balance it out.
Shadetree Mechanic
Delaware Base Station 808
I don't see why not...
But it does not have a Pre-driver (ERF2030 into AN7530) like the older RFX 75/85 units used to - so it appears by install guide, you do not have to remove any Finals - caps or any type of specific mounting requirements - except you can't exceed 18 watts.
But by specs in the install sheet below, you don't get much above 20Watts from 4W carrier - so you know. So you don't gain a ton of power.
Enjoy!
But it does not have a Pre-driver (ERF2030 into AN7530) like the older RFX 75/85 units used to - so it appears by install guide, you do not have to remove any Finals - caps or any type of specific mounting requirements - except you can't exceed 18 watts.
But by specs in the install sheet below, you don't get much above 20Watts from 4W carrier - so you know. So you don't gain a ton of power.
Enjoy!
Shadetree Mechanic
Delaware Base Station 808
It says that it will take 40w pep AM from the transceiver. Does this mean that I can put it on my Galaxy 99v? But wouldn't the removal of the stock heat sink cause the stock finals to overheat? Maybe it would be better to put it on the other side and move the power socket. Also, how would a person measure the SWR between the stock final and this amp since it has no coax connectors between them? Is there another way to measure to ensure a good match?
I don't see why you would need to measure the SWR like that. One does not measure the SWR inside a radio between the driver and final, should be the same basic concept with the RFX-75 and 95.
Shadetree Mechanic
Delaware Base Station 808
Yeah I guess the question comes from my basic understanding of what I would normally do to an amp. I am not sure how to make a final happy with a driver. Maybe measuring the bias current would do this?
Well, not to be Captain Oblivious here but...
Did you read the instructions?
The connection point of the device is at the place where the coax connector is at, inside the radio - you insert it there.
Read step 10.
THEN is the SWR metering is BEFORE the coax connector (inside the radio - by either vertical card or coax ferrite combo)? Then, you can read it directly.
Did you read the instructions?
The connection point of the device is at the place where the coax connector is at, inside the radio - you insert it there.
Read step 10.
THEN is the SWR metering is BEFORE the coax connector (inside the radio - by either vertical card or coax ferrite combo)? Then, you can read it directly.
Having Fun with RF....
Level 1 - Cooking with BIAS...
Today, we'll be using an ordinary Cobra 29 GTL/NW/ST/WX - LTD with the TA2003z Audio chip.
As you know this radio was specifically designed to accept RFX75/85/95 - and the new 150 units - with optional Steel bracket bracing for your Ford Pinto (see Technical Service Bulletin TSB#1024: Explosive Results Caused By Arcing Of Your Lips Due To Poor RF Shielding Causing Severe Burns)
Inside the Radio you'll notice that there are a lot of little parts connected to bigger parts and those bigger parts are connected to the metal case - this is where you begin your procedure...
To prevent further injury - the Author has decided to SACK the entire idea...As you know this radio was specifically designed to accept RFX75/85/95 - and the new 150 units - with optional Steel bracket bracing for your Ford Pinto (see Technical Service Bulletin TSB#1024: Explosive Results Caused By Arcing Of Your Lips Due To Poor RF Shielding Causing Severe Burns)
Inside the Radio you'll notice that there are a lot of little parts connected to bigger parts and those bigger parts are connected to the metal case - this is where you begin your procedure...
In regards to BIAS - in an AM radio - there is no bias control - at least one that can be set readily (See AnyTone)
But you wouldn't need to either - you just need to remember to keep stock levels of power. The specs for that near the top of the instructions.
40 Watts PEP is a little different than a 4 watt carrier - one is a dynamic result of power being applied if only for audio peaks inside an envelope of other power it mixes in with. While another is a "STEADY" constant level of power being applied all the time for amplification through the device, aka - the lower, smaller figure of merit.
So throwing 40 watts pep in a tone all the time - like a elongated Roger Beep - can damage the unit.
But throwing a 4 watt carrier driven by even a M104 - when the limiters are kept in place - should prolong the life of the unit - considerably as long as cooling is provided.