TS DX 350 HDV enroute.. couple questions

[CB590]

Well, I have trade secrets but I have no scruples...

Look these over from the TS350 I have as a "template" I had to eat a cost on. I'll let you look it over and you can see if there's something amiss - go ahead and zoom in if needed to help you determine your amps fate...
View attachment 25123 View attachment 25124

And No complaints about my messy desk either...!

Purple wire on my power switch not going toward relay??

I dunno

Here's mine according to the pics seller posted.



I too noticed his cooked transistors..

 

[Shadetree Mechanic]

Are they cooked or is that flux? Also is that the CW board on its edge? Is it worth changing to Toshiba if the DEI are still good?

 

[Handy Andy]

No it was bought thru a dealer locally I was setting up a system for someone.

T/S said in fewer words, that is your problem.

So arced or burnt - doesn't matter I use it for a "template" to help me straighten things out when I get amps in that need repair.

The amp works - I just can't explain the "arc'd" ferrite and smoke-stained resistor - it's like a part or solder blob caused this.

It's why I also believe in the phrase "Do Not Return To Store" - because what I'm thinking happened is the arc was from a previous buyer, returned - shop fixed and then it sat. I call - they send - I get this...

 

[CB590]

No it was bought thru a dealer locally I was setting up a system for someone.

T/S said in fewer words, that is your problem.

So arced or burnt - doesn't matter I use it for a "template" to help me straighten things out when I get amps in that need repair.

The amp works - I just can't explain the "arc'd" ferrite and smoke-stained resistor - it's like a part or solder blob caused this.

It's why I also believe in the phrase "Do Not Return To Store" - because what I'm thinking happened is the arc was from a previous buyer, returned - shop fixed and then it sat. I call - they send - I get this...

So your saying if I screw mine up but over driving it. It's going to cook my transistors.. not that you actually see anything wrong in my pic that I posted..

So run it low and don't shoot for max..

 

[CB590]

No it was bought thru a dealer locally I was setting up a system for someone.

T/S said in fewer words, that is your problem.

So arced or burnt - doesn't matter I use it for a "template" to help me straighten things out when I get amps in that need repair.

The amp works - I just can't explain the "arc'd" ferrite and smoke-stained resistor - it's like a part or solder blob caused this.

It's why I also believe in the phrase "Do Not Return To Store" - because what I'm thinking happened is the arc was from a previous buyer, returned - shop fixed and then it sat. I call - they send - I get this...

I see the arc now on that ferrite rod and resistor area.. hopefully mine is from a different batch.. it does have HG in it and not the DEI.. the seller said it works fine and he does alot of cb/ham and amp sales on EB with 100% feedback. I checked some of his recent items feedback before buying.

 

[Handy Andy]

So your saying if I screw mine up but over driving it. It's going to cook my transistors.. not that you actually see anything wrong in my pic that I posted..

So run it low and don't shoot for max..

Don't make me start to ask you a lot of questions...

The advice I gave you is simple, straightforward common sense -

Please tell me, you don't stomp on the gas on your new car do you?

Run it with the cheapest, stale-watery gas you can find?

If you do, then you're asking the wrong guy...

Then heed the advice me and several others have given.

Including the 4X rule - that being the amp will take the radios power - carrier, envelope - et al. and produce it nearly identical in every aspect, except it will be a lot bigger, larger, stronger and heavier. <<<---See? 4 -words that also equate to the level of expected ratios of drive to power - since antennas, vehicles, homes, coax, power supplies and all the assorted accessories play a role - and the sheer variety of these combinations is near infinite number - to each their own - the setup you have will be different than another - even with all events being equal - location - grounding - soil composition and conductivity for image and counterpoise all play a role in that amps PERFORMANCE.

If you put too much faith in thinking you need a lot of energy to get a lot out of it, then you have missed the whole point of even buying that kind of amp. Return it and exchange it - place, or duct tape, instructions on it saying something to the effect "I want people to hear me key up on the Superbowl" - and watch your credit card activity for the next few months, you'll either receive a refund or a series of extra charges will be placed as the options and accessories get added to your package request.

Apparently you are not seeing it...

Notice the vertical card? In my photo and situation, this is what makes T/S different from all the others and why you are pretty much dedicated/screwed - you pick - to the hobby when you buy one of these things.

Welcome to Grey Market Advertising...

That Vertical card is a CW tone and Oscillator board that connects a Key to make the amp key up in CW mode using a Xtal you choose for 10 meters.

Right now, the amp does not work because it has no Crystal in it. To use it requires a Key. So therefore it satisfies a basic requirement that you can sell equipment that can contain an amplifier - but is not able to be used on 11 meters - IN ITS CURRENT FORM.

Doing the work, or having the work done, will violate the warranty and you are now stuck with an exchangeable item, not a REFUNDABLE one - work was done...I lost my wallet on the fact that this amp arced and the shop it came from or went back to - fixed it themselves and sent it along with a BRAND NEW ONE drop shipped separately. (Here's your Money Mr. Star, send that item to this address, thank you Mr. OutComm.)

With that being said, you have an amp that contains a lot of what you see in the photos I posted. Now what makes you concerned is that yours is a little different. That is true, and also - the person SELLING the amp has done a conversion to make it ready for 10 meter or 11 meter - that choice is up to you.

This is why you have to be careful when you purchase any amp from sight-unseen dealers - I got two amps and kept the worst one - both did work and the user went on their way. He did have a General license to use it, so I'm not going to go down that road. But, I can take you on this little gravelly - rutted - less traveled road - right next to it. Referring to; no matter what, you now own it.

Another aspect to learn, is how well they stand behind what they sell. I can take the amp I have and verify every part because the maker has posted schematics, part lists, even part SKU numbers to order replacement parts - thanks to CB Tricks - we have a means to repair it - what is your story?

Now, what questions do you have for me? Because you may have to go back into that amp and take a pic or two with greater details so you can show me your concerns.

 

[w9cll]

 

[CB590]

Just came in. Maybe later tonight after work I can at least hook up and set a dk and check SWR with this inline..

 

[CB590]

All hooked up. Good audio reports with my RF gain up all way on both sideband and AM as I am running just an Astatic 636l mic.

SWR are 1.2-1.3 all day from 60-95w dk.



Testing and setup:

With 3/4w dk I get 80w dk with switch out. 40w dk with dial a watt maxed. 4 on meter with switch out.

With 1w dk I get just about 100w dk with switch out and 50w dk with dial a watt maxed. 4 1/2 on meter with switch out.

With 1.5w dk I get 100w+ dk with switch out. And 70w with dial a watt maxed. 5 on meter with switch out.

With 1.75w dk I get 100w+ dk with switch out. And 95-100w dk with dial a watt. 6 on meter with switch out.

The TS meter swings forward when modulating in all cases.

For AM use I'm going to run 1.5w and make 70w with dial a watt maxed.. which with math should be like 220w or so I guess..

On sideband I need set my dk to 1.5w in order to get the TS relay to really stay engaged.. And not run dial a watt at all. I noticed anything less and it would drop me out.. and yes I used the SSB switch on the back..

I tested with a driver far away and he said I sounded good, no clipping..

Opinions on my AM and SSB setting choices??

 

[dave457]

I would set it at a 35-40watt dead key

 

[CB590]

I would set it at a 35-40watt dead key

Most on here and online say 60w or so DK. And using the x4 factor would yield if the wind was perfect and stars aligned 240w pep.. I'm hoping just for 200 on AM.. and 275 on SSB..

My meter only goes to 100w so I don't know my pep

 

[CB590]

Update with DAW off at 1.5dk I am dk supposedly over 100w.. and the needle on the TS is modulating 5-6 with speech on AM..

With DAW on at 1.5dk I get a dk 70w. The needle is doing just 3-5 with speech on AM..

Debating on 1.75w dk and running DAW. Which gives a nice 4-6 with modulation on the TS meter, but that 90-100w dk is scary..

Thinking 1.5w is best..

 

[CB590]

Looks pretty good inside to me..

 

[Handy Andy]

Nice job!

If you are comfortable with your setup - the less fiddling you have to do to it with to make it work, the less likely it is to fail...

I presume you may choose later to key directly from the radio- so how do you feel about using the sense amp in it?

You will have less heating and longer life out of the amp at your lower settings than running 60 watts or more DK - the power loading variances tends to impact the quality of that relay that handles the routing - you don't want a ton of arcs from the power switch points on those relay contacts or a lot of chatter when you go to SSB mode.

When you use the "Direct key" method I find the amp is more stable and seems to run better; than using and putting all my trust into the sense amp - so later as the "shimmer wears off and you get serious" the amp can be rewired for direct key - I would recommend that more, over say, even adjusting DK to get carrier - because you will have variance on the output side from loading of the antenna and the radio will do to both sides of that amp. So it's better right now to get used to the idea of how Sense can be a quick fix and as you get more proficient and iron the bugs out of the setup - the direct key option looks better and it is more reliable in the longer term than - again, to trust the sense amp for all conditions.

You did say "Base radio" so unless you want to mess with installs/removals all the time of that amp - Direct works but get the bugs worked out of the rest of the setup first as you get thru the "break in period" for both you and that amp.

Wish you all the best!

 

[CB590]

Nice job!

If you are comfortable with your setup - the less fiddling you have to do to it with to make it work, the less likely it is to fail...

I presume you may choose later to key directly from the radio- so how do you feel about using the sense amp in it?

You will have less heating and longer life out of the amp at your lower settings than running 60 watts or more DK - the power loading variances tends to impact the quality of that relay that handles the routing - you don't want a ton of arcs from the power switch points on those relay contacts or a lot of chatter when you go to SSB mode.

When you use the "Direct key" method I find the amp is more stable and seems to run better; than using and putting all my trust into the sense amp - so later as the "shimmer wears off and you get serious" the amp can be rewired for direct key - I would recommend that more, over say, even adjusting DK to get carrier - because you will have variance on the output side from loading of the antenna and the radio will do to both sides of that amp. So it's better right now to get used to the idea of how Sense can be a quick fix and as you get more proficient and iron the bugs out of the setup - the direct key option looks better and it is more reliable in the longer term than - again, to trust the sense amp for all conditions.

You did say "Base radio" so unless you want to mess with installs/removals all the time of that amp - Direct works but get the bugs worked out of the rest of the setup first as you get thru the "break in period" for both you and that amp.

Wish you all the best!

Thank you.

So I should turn down the variable output knob from 70 to 60 or a touch less to run cooler?