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What size Power Supply ?

Tripple Nickel

Active Member
Jun 21, 2013
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Monroe, Georgia USA
What size are you running as well as what's your preference, switching or non switching ? Running a small gl 100, probably 60/70 amps tops out, on a good dead key for a few, the relays have a small chatter with the present 8 amp Pyramid. Let's hear your thought's as to what brand and size I should look for. All of my previous STUFF in the late 60's was tube type Contex 500, no transistors then which was good. I've noticed 30 amp power supply that weigh like 3 1/2 pounds compared to the Pyramid 21 weighs in @ 16+ pounds, where is the difference ? I just don't want to make a mistake. Tell me what you think. Good evening to you/yours and 3's to everyone. AKA 555.



 

I run several different powers supplies, my main is a homebrew 35 amp continuous with heavy cables. Works well with my 100 watt rigs. I also have a decent but cheap Samlex 20 amp but I renewed the rectifier diodes when it was still fairly new. I use a 12 amp with my HR2510, a no name brand.
Fun stuff is to build your own, brute force type. Power transformers the hardest to find. For every five to ten amps design you will need a pass transistor, that is what I have done.

73 mechanic
 
The 30 amp megawatt runs my icom 746 (100 watts), just fine. Have heard of some using them to power 2 transitor Amps. Usually amp draw is about 10 amps per 100 watts, maybe a couple more amps than that but it's a close figure. You can find the small ones like the megawatt on Amazon as well, some have gotten them for as cheap as $12. I opted for the more expensive megawatt s400-12, they run about $67 shipped. They do work well for how small they are and the voltage can be adjusted as well from 9-15vdc. And they don't take up much room either!
 
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The 30 amp megawatt runs my icom 746 (100 watts), just fine. Have heard of some using them to power 2 transitor Amps. Usually amp draw is about 10 amps per 100 watts, maybe a couple more amps than that but it's a close figure. You can find the small ones like the megawatt on Amazon as well, some have gotten them for as cheap as $12. I opted for the more expensive megawatt s400-12, they run about $67 shipped. They do work well for how small they are and the voltage can be adjusted as well from 9-15vdc. And they don't take up much room either!

222DBFL has it right on the money! Minimum 10 amps per 100 watts. You could do a lot worse than the MegaWatt power supply. I run two of them and have not had a problem.
 
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Well volts x amps=watts you can go the other way as well.... Soo if you have a 100 watt device and you have a 12 volt supply then you would need a continious amp rating of 8.3 amps. Now because your radio is not driving your 100 watt device at any where near 100% because of the way your modulation works you can often get away with a little less since you only hit 100 watts at 100% modulation etc....

I had a second generation RCI 2950 that had 2 x MRF455 transistor amp bolted onto the rear of it's chassis. I put it on a friends 32 amp power supply with amp meter. It varied between 11 amps and 15 amps depending on the amount of RF power I had selected.

I like switching power supplies mostly because they are light weight and very portable. The problem with switching power supplies are birdies spurious emissions that if they are resonate with the the band you are operating on they induce noise in your receive.

Linear power supply uses a heavy transformer made with high silicone steel and lots of copper wire. Depending on who makes it you can see various capacitors, rectifiers and Fe bead or toroidals before the output to the terminals. The less rectification the less noise. If it is AC to DC transformer you can just filter it with a cap and Fe choke.

If you look at old battery chargers they often used ac-ac transformer and then a germanium rectifer to turn it to DC and had no caps or Fe chokes on them.

Linear AC-DC transformers are not very efficient, are expensive and heavy but produce a very clean power that is low ripple and usualy free of birdies. Expect a lot of heat so keep them where air can circulate!

Switching power supplies work in much the same way your alternator on your car works. Your alternator makes AC and it uses a bunch of diodes to take that high voltage AC and produce something that is very very similar to DC. They are noisy and dirty. That is why I will never take power directly from an alternators out put I always want it to either go through a lead acid battery (think electrolytic cap) or I put it through a filter sometimes both!

AS far as head room goes I like to have at least a 30% reserve based off of the continuous rating of the power supply if it is switching. If it is linear I will reduce that some.
 
For 100 watts out you need a 20 amp supply . never seen any device that will do 100 for 8.2amps 12volts as stated.Rf transistors if biased for linear operations are around 55% efficient . So 100 watts output is about 180 watts dc in or 15 amps at 12 v. 20 amps to be safe.Most 100 watt amateur radios need 19 to 23 amps to get 100 out.
 
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Well volts x amps=watts you can go the other way as well.... Soo if you have a 100 watt device and you have a 12 volt supply then you would need a continious amp rating of 8.3 amps. Now because your radio is not driving your 100 watt device at any where near 100% because of the way your modulation works you can often get away with a little less since you only hit 100 watts at 100% modulation etc....

You clearly do not understand efficiency or how a radio drives an amp. P=V x I however that is just DC power into the amp. Power out is equal to P=V xI x eff. Most solidstate amps are about 50% efficient unless it is a class C crap box and then you might see 70%. Therefore a 100 watt amp would require 12 v x 16.66 amps x 50% for a total of 200 watts input for 100 watts output. the rest is heat. Hitting full output only at 100% modulation still means that you need the full current available during peaks.


I had a second generation RCI 2950 that had 2 x MRF455 transistor amp bolted onto the rear of it's chassis. I put it on a friends 32 amp power supply with amp meter. It varied between 11 amps and 15 amps depending on the amount of RF power I had selected.

Either the radio was not driving the finals to full output or the meter you were measuring current with was too slow to show peak current and was reading low just like trying to read pep power with an average reading meter which will always read low.

Linear power supply uses a heavy transformer made with high silicone steel and lots of copper wire. Depending on who makes it you can see various capacitors, rectifiers and Fe bead or toroidals before the output to the terminals. The less rectification the less noise. If it is AC to DC transformer you can just filter it with a cap and Fe choke.

An AC to DC transformer? No such device exists. A transformer is an AC device. Ac in on the primary and AC out of the secondary. Also not sure what you mean by less rectification. Rectification is the process of changing AC to DC. Nothing more and nothing less. Less rectification ? Is that like using a half wave rectifier instead of a full wave rectifier? A half wave requires a bigger capacitor to filter out the higher level and lower frequency of ripple.


If you look at old battery chargers they often used ac-ac transformer and then a germanium rectifer to turn it to DC and had no caps or Fe chokes on them.

They ALWAYS used an AC-AC transformer. there is no other kind. Transformers do not pass DC nor do they convert AC to DC

Linear AC-DC transformers are not very efficient, are expensive and heavy but produce a very clean power that is low ripple and usualy free of birdies. Expect a lot of heat so keep them where air can circulate!

Please stop calling them AC to DC transformers. I believe you are looking for the words "power supply". Yes linear supplies are heavy and bulky and less efficient than switching but they are easy to repair and will take more of a beating if something goes wrong. I prefer them for their clean output and serviceability.

Switching power supplies work in much the same way your alternator on your car works. Your alternator makes AC and it uses a bunch of diodes to take that high voltage AC and produce something that is very very similar to DC. They are noisy and dirty. That is why I will never take power directly from an alternators out put I always want it to either go through a lead acid battery (think electrolytic cap) or I put it through a filter sometimes both!

The alternator is noisy because of the voltage spikes that are developed from the brushes and slip rings. The output is a high frequency AC that is rectified to pulsating DC which is filtered by the battery. It is much higher than the nominal 12 volt and feeds a voltage regulator to maintain a nominal 13.2-14.4 volts depending on the rate of charge.The high pitched whine you sometimes hear is a result of that high frequency output. You are correct about never running anything directly from an alternator without a large filter, preferably a storage battery and even if that battery is bad it will provide filtering.

AS far as head room goes I like to have at least a 30% reserve based off of the continuous rating of the power supply if it is switching. If it is linear I will reduce that some.

Usually a good linear supply can be run pretty much right up to it's maximum ratings but switching supplies do indeed like to have a little headroom left. A linear supply generates most of the heat in the transformer and pass transistors on a heatsink whereas a switching supply, although they create less heat, tends to generate that heat in smaller components that need better cooling.
 
You guy's are the best, thank's for all your input. Now I'm certain what direction to go. When I started all this years ago, it was kinda Plug/Play if you know what I mean. Today is much different, you gotta think more and @ 73, it's getting harder, but again Thank's to all of you, it helps. Good evening to you/your's, 3's and all that good stuff.
555
 
Mydel MP-30SWIV 30A switch mode. Very quiet operation, hardly ever hear the fan come on even during 48hr contests and its very clean RFI wise. That'll do you fine unless you intend going past 120-130W.
 
Well volts x amps=watts you can go the other way as well.... Soo if you have a 100 watt device and you have a 12 volt supply then you would need a continious amp rating of 8.3 amps. Now because your radio is not driving your 100 watt device at any where near 100% because of the way your modulation works you can often get away with a little less since you only hit 100 watts at 100% modulation etc....
The 10 amps per 100 watts is a general W.A.G.. Roughly and approximately are terms I usually attach to that statement. Not everyone carries a calculator in their pocket or a cell phone and 10 amps per 100 is close enough for most users.
I won't even go into the AC/DC transformer comment. Captain Kilowatt said it all.
 
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I wouldn't ! 10 amps is not even close.
I don't what math you are using. At 13.8 volts you only need 7.24 amps for 100 watts.
Power (100) divided by voltage (13.8) = 7.2463768 Amperes. So 10 amps of DC current is more than enough for most users.
OhmsWattsLaws.png
 
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I don't what math you are using. At 13.8 volts you only need 7.24 amps for 100 watts.
Power (100) divided by voltage (13.8) = 7.2463768 Amperes. So 10 amps of DC current is more than enough for most users.

Apparently you entirely missed my post above regarding the difference between DC INPUT POWER and RF OUTPUT POWER. The big difference is EFFICIENCY. Look at my post above again. Your numbers above are based on 100% efficiency which is 0% possible. Most amps run at about 50% on average so double your numbers. Now you will see just what kind of math vkrules was in fact using. He was using the correct math, the same as I was.
 
I was going to make this very thread. I'm looking to start my first base station, dont plan to ever run more than 100 watts, what kind should i go with?

Strongly considering the Jetstream JTPS31MB
 
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