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Need Help Identifying Plugs On An ANTENNA ROTOR

More related items . . . Note that the Yaesu plug is only 7 pins, not 8, as required for the WR-500.

WILSON WR-500 ADVERTISEMENT - 1.JPG
515693.jpg
IMG_20120630_075926.jpg
YAESU G-800 ROTOR - 7.jpg
 
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Ez2cDave,
That is a bummer.(n)
Interesting advertising you have dug up. I remember "lusting" after one of these Wilson Crank up towers in the late 70's. Seems it was awful expensive then-not so much now!

73's
David
 
Ez2cDave,
That does put it in perspective.
Is it a possible smoother journey to replace that "socket" with something more readily available? Surely the rotor will have to be disassembled but considering the manufacturing date of this unit, might be at least due some fresh grease!

Good luck!

73's
David

Oh, yes . . . "Basic" disassembly is definitely in the plans ( NOT the Gear Train ) !

The exploded drawing in the manual gives a "hint" to what lies within. I'll definitely open it up in an "inverted" position, to avoid chasing 98 Ball-Bearings all over the place !

WILSON WR-500 EXPLODED VIEW.JPG
WILSON WR-500 SCHEMATIC.JPG
WILSON WR-500 WIRING CORRECTION.JPG
WILSON WR-500 PARTS LIST.JPG
 
Oh, yes . . . "Basic" disassembly is definitely in the plans ( NOT the Gear Train ) !

The exploded drawing in the manual gives a "hint" to what lies within. I'll definitely open it up in an "inverted" position, to avoid chasing 98 Ball-Bearings all over the place !

Set it inside a cardboard box when you take it apart. That keeps all the bearings from running away and leaving little grease tracks across the floor.
 
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Ez2cDave,
I believe there are many different types available. They are not all equipped with a flange mount.
I have seen some that are like a "bulkhead" type mount that could be sealed with a flat fiber washer/ O ring or similar.
It looks like the mount ring (with the screws) on your rotor may be on a flat surface. There appears to be a machined "step" in the housing that the chrome ring sits in.

Another possibility would be to remove the current plug, fabricate a small curved plate that will fit what you removed and install a short 12" pigtail through your replacement plate using a grommet with a cable mounted plug. Shouldn't be too hard to weather proof that set up.

73's
David
 
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I have taken several rotators apart and do this all the time. I just cut the sides down to a couple inches so they don't get in the way yet still keep the bearings contained.

That makes a lot of sense . . . The good news is that if any bearings are messed up or missing, they should be a "standard" size and fairly easy to find, if necessary.

The one internal part that worries me ( other than the Gear Train ) is the potentiometer that operates the "direction needle" on the meter. Hopefully, they are still available, if the original one has crapped out.
 
Ez2cDave,
I believe there are many different types available. They are not all equipped with a flange mount.
I have seen some that are like a "bulkhead" type mount that could be sealed with a flat fiber washer/ O ring or similar.
It looks like the mount ring (with the screws) on your rotor may be on a flat surface. There appears to be a machined "step" in the housing that the chrome ring sits in.

Another possibility would be to remove the current plug, fabricate a small curved plate that will fit what you removed and install a short 12" pigtail through your replacement plate using a grommet with a cable mounted plug. Shouldn't be too hard to weather proof that set up.

73's
David

Some good ideas there . . . I dread screwing things up on this !
 
Ez2cDave,
Take your time, think it through, think it through, think it through, measure 5 times, cut once and trial fit everything. Take lots of before pictures.

I am thinking the pigtail thing may be the best option. Require less clearance inside the housing. Leaving the pigtail long enough to secure it well to the tower or mast...............

I'm thinking this through a lot myself.............

73's
David
 
Ez2cDave,
Take your time, think it through, think it through, think it through, measure 5 times, cut once and trial fit everything. Take lots of before pictures.

I am thinking the pigtail thing may be the best option. Require less clearance inside the housing. Leaving the pigtail long enough to secure it well to the tower or mast...............

I'm thinking this through a lot myself.............

73's
David


Great advice . . . Slow & methodical is the ticket !
 
Just choose a connector that will be as waterproof as the original.

73

From what I understand, the original plug was only "waterproof" because it had a rubber "boot" that was pulled up over it after it was screwed in place . . . I might be wrong about that, however.
 

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