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Carl Built

its more than likely a type 43 ferrite bead. you can get them in different sizes and different inner diameters. they are called by different names but are bassically the same thing ferrite bead, ferrite ring, ferrite core. just one of many suppliers for an example. https://www.kf7p.com/KF7P/Ferrite_chokes.html
Thanks for the link. It looks like this one should work as long as I can mount it on the cable just outside the case. It has an ID of 0.505 inch and the OD of the 6 AWG cable I am using is 0.4 inch.

1678547128809.png
 
Yes you can use snap on beads right outside the amp.
It just helps stop RF from flowing back up the power wires.

73
Jeff
Sorry to pester you with yet another question but... In general, does a slip-on ferrite bead work better than a clamp-on one of the same dimensions? I'm thinking of any stray RF weasels that try to sneak up the slot where the two halves join.
 
Instead of screwing around soldering the #6 wire to the board, why not just butt-join the #6 to the #8?
Because I caught a bit of grief here a few months ago when I mentioned extending the #8 wires and it was suggested I should do it properly and completely replace the #8 wire with #6 wire. Plus it's another excuse to tinker/learn. ;)

It'll be better once the weather warms up and I can get back to mucking about on my bike and car projects in the workshop.
 
Because I caught a bit of grief here a few months ago when I mentioned extending the #8 wires and it was suggested I should do it properly and completely replace the #8 wire with #6 wire. Plus it's another excuse to tinker/learn. ;)

It'll be better once the weather warms up and I can get back to mucking about on my bike and car projects in the workshop.
Or just replace it with 8awg
 
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Or just replace it with 8awg
Agreed. I tried it out and my 60 watt soldering iron is too wimpy to get enough heat into the 6 AWG wire to make a solid joint so I will stick with 8 AWG. I know I have a Weller 200/300 watt soldering gun packed away somewhere but it's been at least 5 years since I last saw it. I will find it when I am not looking for it.

The innards of the Carl Built are quite interesting. To me it looks like a random bunch of parts and wires but they sure do work well together!
 
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I thought the same thing the first time I looked inside one and was able to study it. The Manhattan style build puts function over form and is fairly easy to duplicate. It amazes me that there are so many builders of these devices for the grey market. Basic supply and demand I guess, I might start a small business doing this when I retire.
 
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I thought the same thing the first time I looked inside one and was able to study it. The Manhattan style build puts function over form and is fairly easy to duplicate. It amazes me that there are so many builders of these devices for the grey market. Basic supply and demand I guess, I might start a small business doing this when I retire.
The margins on amplifiers, especially cb amplifiers, especially DC boxes, are slim on all sides. Slim for the builder, slim for the retailer.
The business model really only works if you can get some of the larger pieces cheap enough. Essentially you have to deal in large quantities of parts, huge outlays of money, and you have to be willing to deal in volume of sales not in profit per piece.
Everybody building boxes using components from ICA is probably losing money. A lot of folks don't count their time, so the 50 or $75 they make making an amplifier to them is profit. People have no idea how difficult it is to get cases made custom. I've done it and it was an enormous outlay and in the end I had a product that was better than everybody else's. But people bought the charger boxes because they were half the price. It's a real cutthroat business and it's not for everyone. A lot of folks don't even realize why they can't turn a profit in the business. They don't even realize that they can't physically purchase copper board cheaper than charger can. Once you realize that getting your own heat sink made is a pretty large investment and you have to buy a lot to make it worthwhile, it is daunting. There's no shortage of DC box builders, I used to be one of them, I gave up.
 
Another cheap Evercool sleeve bearing fan that should not be mounted horizontally. I have seen the same fan on Fatboy amps too.
wrong! mounting a sleeve-bearing fan VERTICALLY will reduce its lifespan significantly due to the uneven load on the upper portion of the bearing. These fans are best used in a horizontal application.
 
Attached are the datasheets for the Toshiba 2SC2879 and the HG2SC2879. As you can see by comparing the 2 datasheets, HG's sheet is almost a carbon copy of the Toshiba as far as Maximum ratings and Electrical characteristics. There is additional data on the Toshiba datasheet("Input power") that is not "copied" onto the HG datasheet. Look at the charts on page 2 of the Toshiba datasheet.

Granted the HG datasheet is not for the HG2SC2879C but the lack of complete information makes me suspect. :unsure:

73
David
Every HG transistor I tested here was not anything like the device it was supposed to be a copy of. I won't use them here.
 
I may have spoken too soon with the Lincoln II+. At lunchtime I was using it on SSB with the amp on high and when I un-keyed the mic, it did the same thing as the Anytone was doing i.e. nearly pegged the S-meter and only stopped doing it when I turned the amp off. This radio only puts out about 28 watts PEP so it's not even capable of exceeding the amps limits. I ask Carl's if I can send the amp in to them to get it checked over.
Self oscillation.
 
I am in the process of replacing the much-too-short 8 awg power cables on my 200HDC with six foot long 6 awg cables. The outer diameter of the new 6 awg positive cable is 10mm and this is too large to fit inside the ring that the current 8 awg wire goes through right before where it is soldered onto a bar. I assume this ring is important so I want to replace it with the right one that fits this larger OD cable.

Any chance any of you folks know what I should use here?

View attachment 63157
I changed my power wires to #4 cable. So I to ditch the small bead also. I prefer to have a choke with a loop. So I have a ton of these large 43 mix beads. I was able to get 2 pass thru my bead on the outside the of cabinet. 31 mix would be better but I do not have any. I plan on buying some from Palomar Engineers.
 

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