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Carl Built

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The article was fairly compelling. Just saying.

Fan Mounting​

Another factor that can impact fan longevity is fan mounting. Fans can be positioned horizontally, or shaft center line parallel, or perpendicular to the ground. Fan orientation does not affect the longevity of ball bearing fans. Ball bearing fans can be mounted in any position because preloading of the bearings is built in during the bearing manufacturing stage. Preloading describes the procedure by which manufacturers build an initial side load, such as a spring or a wave washer against the balls, into the ball bearing. This makes the bearing more durable. In comparison, sleeve bearing fans can maintain life spans comparable to their ball bearing counterparts when the sleeve bearing fans are mounted in vertical positions. However, when sleeve bearing fans are mounted in any position other than vertical the fan’s life span decreases. When selecting a bearing type, the design engineer must consider the orientation for which the fan will be mounted. If the fan needs to be mounted vertically, the engineer might choose a sleeve bearing fan. However, if the fan is mounted in any orientation other than vertical, the engineer may want to select a ball bearing fan.
 
It's all good. Think of it like this. In your car the fan for the heat or AC has say 4 speed settings for air flow. All the control does is vary the voltage to the fan. So wide open at 14.xx volts the fan is on hi, by the time you get down to the lowest speed that blower is maybe only getting say 5 volts.

So on your fan adding a resistor will slow it down. If you ever blow that fan the other thing you can do is replace it with a 24 volt fan that's the same size. By running that fan at only 13.8 volts it will be very quiet and still move plenty of air. Good luck.
Now you have me thinking about installing a fan speed switch, at least three speeds. Is there a formula that will help tell what wattage resistors you'd need to have a fan that normally runs at 14 volts to have a high setting that runs at 14 volts, a medium setting at 10 volts and a low setting at 5 volts? Then again, this is the exact type of thing that may end up with me having to send the amp back to Carl Built for repairs caused by an owner that just could not leave the damn thing alone. Well, stuff breaks when I am learning. When I was a teenager I learned the really, really hard way about the importance of paying close attention to timing chain mark positions in an interference engine. But it also ended up giving me a great project engine to tear down and remove/repair the bent pushrods, a few broken valves and pistons, and related machine work.
 
Now you have me thinking about installing a fan speed switch, at least three speeds. Is there a formula that will help tell what wattage resistors you'd need to have a fan that normally runs at 14 volts to have a high setting that runs at 14 volts, a medium setting at 10 volts and a low setting at 5 volts? Then again, this is the exact type of thing that may end up with me having to send the amp back to Carl Built for repairs caused by an owner that just could not leave the damn thing alone. Well, stuff breaks when I am learning. When I was a teenager I learned the really, really hard way about the importance of paying close attention to timing chain mark positions in an interference engine. But it also ended up giving me a great project engine to tear down and remove/repair the bent pushrods, a few broken valves and pistons, and related machine work.
if you want a fan speed control just google computer fan speed controller. computer parts stores sell many different types of controllers from simple to elaborate ones with meters, lights, etc. pretty cool actually. and they are cheap as well
 
I just don't use sleeve bearing fans in anything.
Agreed...I stopped using sleeve fans every since most of the early computer fans started producing the rattle of doom in short order. Sleeve bearings tolerate very little blade imbalance due to dust or debris and need to lubed more often. I have a 20 plus year old household ball bearings box fan. It’s still running strong. Longevity isn’t close to the same for those cheap household box fans with sleeve bearings. For me it’s a no brainer…Ball bearings creates less noise. Wherever possible I prefer to mount a squirrel cage for maximum air flow vs. noise.
 
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Wow. I explicitly stated I am not going to open this up to fuck around with it when discussing extending the power cables. I don't care about the lights or a LED fan. I am a bit on in the years for that. I stated that the fan is loud and it is. Maybe the fan on your Carl Built is a bit less boisterous and that's great. The fan on mine is not malfunctioning, it's just a bit loud. Just like more db at a car's tailpipe does not necessarily mean higher flow through the exhaust manifolds, I know that it is possible to get a fan that is quieter while still pushing the same or more CFM so less noise + at least as much air through the heat sink is a win-win to me. On my 1968 Mustang I swapped out a belt-driven fan with a pair of smaller electric fans and this freed up a few horsepower plus significantly improved the amount of air being pulled through the radiator, running the 351C about 15 degrees cooler. It was an upgrade more than fucking around. However, one pair of chrome valve covers I had on it for a bit were definitely in the fucking around category, plus they leaked a bit of oil.

I still greatly appreciate all of the help I receive on this forum and will probably still ask questions that irritate others.
The fans on my amps were noisy also. I disconnected the power source, removed the cover and cleaned of the dust from both sides of the fan blades with a new and clean paint brush, vacuumed the blades and wiped them off with a clean lint-free (T-shirt) cloth.
The fans were out of balance due the accumulated dust. I had my iplat
 
Wow. I explicitly stated I am not going to open this up to fuck around with it when discussing extending the power cables. I don't care about the lights or a LED fan. I am a bit on in the years for that. I stated that the fan is loud and it is. Maybe the fan on your Carl Built is a bit less boisterous and that's great. The fan on mine is not malfunctioning, it's just a bit loud. Just like more db at a car's tailpipe does not necessarily mean higher flow through the exhaust manifolds, I know that it is possible to get a fan that is quieter while still pushing the same or more CFM so less noise + at least as much air through the heat sink is a win-win to me. On my 1968 Mustang I swapped out a belt-driven fan with a pair of smaller electric fans and this freed up a few horsepower plus significantly improved the amount of air being pulled through the radiator, running the 351C about 15 degrees cooler. It was an upgrade more than fucking around. However, one pair of chrome valve covers I had on it for a bit were definitely in the fucking around category, plus they leaked a bit of oil.

I still greatly appreciate all of the help I receive on this forum and will probably still ask questions that irritate others.
The fans on my amps were noisy also. I disconnected the power source, removed the cover and cleaned of the dust from both sides of the fan blades with a new and clean paint brush, vacuumed the blades and wiped them off with a clean lint-free (T-shirt) cloth.
The fans were out of balance due the accumulated dust. I had the inexpensive sleeve type bearing fans replaced with quality sealed bearing fans.
 
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The Ferr Rite mix 43 ferrites arrived yesterday but when I tried to install them I found the ID was only 7mm instead of the 13mm ones I had ordered. Back they go and hopefully the correct ones will be sent this time.
 
My CarlBuilt 200HDC amp with 2879 hg C transistors in it, SSB bias and SSB delay has this sticker on the back of it.

1679606420094.png


How do you decipher this direction? Not sure where the commas should go.

Is it saying I should set the radio's deadkey to an output level that will generate a max dead key of 100 watts on the amp? But if the dead key is 100 watts how does that line up with a 80 watt peak?

I think I will try pinging the builder directly too to verify if it is safe to use the Anytone's 60 watts PEP on SSB when the radio is connected to the amp but the amp is not turned on. I know RM Italy amps can't do this, at least the less expensive ones.
 

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