TEXAS STAR 500 AND POWER SUPPLY

[Greg T]

Unless the design has been recently changed, (very, very recently) and I doubt that it has, the TS 500V amps still have two 30 amp fuses in parallel in fuse holders installed into the back of the amplifier.
I always remove those when I perform a power wire upgrade.

Well, I've got one coming so I'll find out what the hell is going on. I kinda wonder if they recently changed hands again and someone made a few changes. I ordered a brand new one but I don't know how long it's been in someones inventory. I spoke with a few places during my shopping period, and was told by someone about the single 45A fuse inside. Another concern of mine is about the pills. Can't be real 2879s but that is how they're advertised. Could be knock-offs, could be DEI, I suppose.

 

[Greg T]

Yes, that is about what you would see .....

I don't have a real peak reading meter so I'll get what I get, I guess. My meter has a choice of Average and Peak, but I know it isn't real peak.

 

[Sonar]

Hey Sonar,
I am not sure what output you would get with the drive you will be using. Can anyone tell us how much drive it takes to get rated power on a 500v? I am thinking you might be around 300w with the drive you have, but I have never had a 500v so I don't know for sure. Maybe the 667v would be better, I don't know.
Chris

I could easily change the output on both the 2340 and Madison.
The Madison is capable of 4 watts DK (16-18 pep.)
On the other hand the Sonar 2340 only reaches 21/2 watts DK (18 pep) when using the load and tune/grid controls on the rear of the radio. Is this the case with your 2340?
Might there be a way to get the rig to reach 4 watts (DK?) According to the Sonar's manual its DK should be 4 watts.
If my memory serves me correct I could only get 21/2 out of your 2340 also.
I always thought that both 2340's should've reached 4 watts DK via the rigs tune and load/grid controls.
I'm almost sure that was the case with the third 2340 I owned (only 21/2 DK.) Why is this? I'm sure both your 2340 and mine have strong 6BQ5 finals.
Is there any way to increase the rigs output from 21/2 to 4 DK via adjustments under the hood? Have you ever tried to get more than 21/2 DK from your 2340?
What are you running your 2340's DK at, and what's the rigs pep?
It's not a game changer but I'd hate to get only 300 from a 4 pill. Thanks Chris.

 

[Shadetree Mechanic]

I could easily change the output on both the 2340 and Madison.
The Madison is capable of 4 watts DK (16-18 pep.)
On the other hand the Sonar 2340 only reaches 21/2 watts DK (18 pep) when using the load and tune/grid controls on the rear of the radio. Is this the case with your 2340?
Might there be a way to get the rig to reach 4 watts (DK?) According to the Sonar's manual its DK should be 4 watts.
If my memory serves me correct I could only get 21/2 out of your 2340 also.
I always thought that both 2340's should've reached 4 watts DK via the rigs tune and load/grid controls.
I'm almost sure that was the case with the third 2340 I owned (only 21/2 DK.) Why is this? I'm sure both your 2340 and mine have strong 6BQ5 finals.
Is there any way to increase the rigs output from 21/2 to 4 DK via adjustments under the hood? Have you ever tried to get more than 21/2 DK from your 2340?
What are you running your 2340's DK at, and what's the rigs pep?
It's not a game changer but I'd hate to get only 300 from a 4 pill. Thanks Chris.

My Sonar does 2.5w dead key and swings up to about 12w. Lately when it heats up it will only swing 8w so I plan on replacing the final tube. I am thinking that you would need about 40w peak to drive the 500v. They seem to be well suited to the export radios. I wonder what kind of radio most people use with these?

 

[Sonar]

My Sonar does 2.5w dead key and swings up to about 12w. Lately when it heats up it will only swing 8w so I plan on replacing the final tube. I am thinking that you would need about 40w peak to drive the 500v. They seem to be well suited to the export radios. I wonder what kind of radio most people use with these?

40 watts to get 500?! If that's the case I won't be buying it. My Madison and sonar could never come close to that. I'm sorry I sold all three of the Palomar 4 x 1446's 35 amp power supply amps I had. I guess I'm going to stick with the tube amps I've got. Tha0nks Chris
Ps. Two of the 4 x 1446's I owned. They worked very well. With 21/2 DK and 15-18 pep I would see 125 DK and 500 pep. I wouldn't mind picking one up.

 

[CB590]

Other option is a 2x4. That would be a 667v. They are low drive.

 

[Sonar]

Other option is a 2x4. That would be a 667v. They are low drive.

Why I thought the 500v was a low drive I'm not sure.
I'm going to have to research the 600v.
I recall either reading the 600v had issues or that the 500v was a better choice.
I'm most likely going to open another thread explaining what my drivers are and if the 600v is the way to go?
Thanks my friends. Ps
I would've considered the low drive 1600 but don't want to have to purchase (or use such a large power supply.) Not to mention that the difference will be negligible on the other end between the 500v/600v and the 1600.
One of my reasons for wanting to go from the tube amps to a transistorized amp is the weight factor.
I'm running one amp for the Madison (Phantom) and another for the Sonar (350z.)
The setup is on a rolling utility shelf and I store it some feet away from where I use it. Having to push it from wher I store it to where I operate it is just to much for me to do any longer. Maybe when 808 comes over to put my antenna up he could configure my setup so that I could switch between the Sonar and Madison while using a single amp?
I know they'll take using a number of antenna switches but it might be better than possibly getting a mobile amp I'm not going to be happy with. Thanks again everyone. Much appreciated.

 

[543_Dallas]

20 watts of drive should get you close to 500 watts. 40 to 50 will get 500 to 600 out of a class C comp box. They have less gain than the TX star design. If the power supply can supply 60 amps continuous you should be good to go.

http://www.texasstar.com/export/specifications.html

Sorry if someone else posted this link and I missed it. Im sure those old specs were from the old days when they used Toshiba transistors. YMMV

Figure 500 watts (cw). 500w ÷ 12.5v is 40 amps. If the thing was 60% efficient divide 40 amps by .60% = 66.6 amps.

I don't know the efficiency of the amp but if it's 60% then it would pull around 66 amps at a 500 watt deadkey or single tone on ssb. I figured that at 12.5v. Amp draw for a given output will decrease as power supply voltage increases.

 

[Sonar]

20 watts of drive should get you close to 500 watts. 40 to 50 will get 500 to 600 out of a class C comp box. They have less gain than the TX star design. If the power supply can supply 60 amps continuous you should be good to go.

http://www.texasstar.com/export/specifications.html

Sorry if someone else posted this link and I missed it. Im sure those old specs were from the old days when they used Toshiba transistors. YMMV

Figure 500 watts (cw). 500w ÷ 12.5v is 40 amps. If the thing was 60% efficient divide 40 amps by .60% = 66.6 amps.

I don't know the efficiency of the amp but if it's 60% then it would pull around 66 amps at a 500 watt deadkey or single tone on ssb. I figured that at 12.5v. Amp draw for a given output will decrease as power supply voltage increases.

Ok. I hate to sound like I can't com

20 watts of drive should get you close to 500 watts. 40 to 50 will get 500 to 600 out of a class C comp box. They have less gain than the TX star design. If the power supply can supply 60 amps continuous you should be good to go.

http://www.texasstar.com/export/specifications.html

Sorry if someone else posted this link and I missed it. Im sure those old specs were from the old days when they used Toshiba transistors. YMMV

Figure 500 watts (cw). 500w ÷ 12.5v is 40 amps. If the thing was 60% efficient divide 40 amps by .60% = 66.6 amps.

I don't know the efficiency of the amp but if it's 60% then it would pull around 66 amps at a 500 watt deadkey or single tone on ssb. I figured that at 12.5v. Amp draw for a given output will decrease as power supply voltage increases.

The power supply I'll be getting is 75 max and 70 continuous.
So that should be sufficient.
Its been some time since I've been able to fire up the Sonar or Madison so I'm not 100% sure of their output but if memory serves me correct the Sonar is (max) 21/2 DK and 15 pep (with the Demo.)
The Madison is 31/2-4 DK and 15 pep.
Are those outputs sufficient for the 500v?
Do you know the input ratings, and operating amps needed on the 667v?
Thanks a bunch. I absolutely appreciate you taking the time to help.

 

[loosecannon]

just wanted to say a quick hi to some friends.
sorry for keying with anyone.

Sonar, first of all, sup? how's everything?
To answer your question, any shop you buy that DX500V from should be able to answer this simple question for you.
"Is it easy to bypass the variable if i wanted to?"

If anyone wants to charge you more than 30 bucks to do that, they are not the place to buy the amp from. (DISCLAIMER): I don't follow what $^!* costs so don't quote me)

you could solder two terminals of that variable pot together with a piece of 20ga. solid wire and create the exact same circuit configuration as if it wasn't even there in the first place.

that's why people always talk about the 500V being worse than the 500.
the pot will eventually go out because a variable potentiometer that can withstand the use and abuse expected of a variable control on a CB amplifier is expensive!
not something a manufacturer wants to deal with.
1 dollar per unit extra is a pretty significant cost.

However the more versatile the product, the wider the consumer base, so, the DX500V becomes the obvious choice when faced with which product line to continue.
jump the VR, or put a certain value resistor in there that corresponds to your particular use.
Im sure you know im happy to help in this endeavor in any way i can.
(skip is picking up, always hope to make the contact)

Greg,
I told you the bug would bite! welcome to the madness, er. forum.

Tokin, thanks for trying to help me out, i blame covid LOL. (sorry, inside joke here folks)

Ranch55 has the answers, you just have to convince him it's worthwhile to type it up! hope to catch you in DX again sir.
LC

 

[Sonar]

just wanted to say a quick hi to some friends.
sorry for keying with anyone.

Sonar, first of all, sup? how's everything?
To answer your question, any shop you buy that DX500V from should be able to answer this simple question for you.
"Is it easy to bypass the variable if i wanted to?"

If anyone wants to charge you more than 30 bucks to do that, they are not the place to buy the amp from. (DISCLAIMER): I don't follow what $^!* costs so don't quote me)

you could solder two terminals of that variable pot together with a piece of 20ga. solid wire and create the exact same circuit configuration as if it wasn't even there in the first place.

that's why people always talk about the 500V being worse than the 500.
the pot will eventually go out because a variable potentiometer that can withstand the use and abuse expected of a variable control on a CB amplifier is expensive!
not something a manufacturer wants to deal with.
1 dollar per unit extra is a pretty significant cost.

However the more versatile the product, the wider the consumer base, so, the DX500V becomes the obvious choice when faced with which product line to continue.
jump the VR, or put a certain value resistor in there that corresponds to your particular use.
Im sure you know im happy to help in this endeavor in any way i can.
(skip is picking up, always hope to make the contact)

Greg,
I told you the bug would bite! welcome to the madness, er. forum.

Tokin, thanks for trying to help me out, i blame covid LOL. (sorry, inside joke here folks)

Ranch55 has the answers, you just have to convince him it's worthwhile to type it up! hope to catch you in DX again sir.
LC

Glad to hear from you my friend.
If I get the 667v I'll leave it alone.
If something were to eventually happen to the variable I'll get it fixed.
I'm leaning towards the idea of having 808 hookup the 350Z in a way that I can use that single amplifier between both the Madison, and sonar without having to switch the coax.
This is going to have to be done using a few antenna switches.
I guess doing that will not only save me the hassle of having to get a new amplifier, but obviously save me the money for the amp and the power supply to run it.
I just saved around $1,000.
I hope you're doing it well my friend.
It certainly was good hearing from you.
I'll keep you informed on the progress.
I need to put the antenna back up in the air before I get back on the airwaves. Hopefully within the next month or so me and 808 will get together and finally take care of that.
God bless you my friend. Stay healthy. 73's
PS. Putting a face to the name.

 

[Ranch55]

The Madison is 31/2-4 DK and 15 pep.
Are those outputs sufficient for the 500v?

Yes

The best way to operate the 500v is to not even use the variable pot........do not engage the green push button ....use the RF power adjust on your radio instead .....
You can use the green "Dial a Watt" just fine with a low drive radio. The variable will handle a low drive radio input RF just fine. The degradation of the variable pot comes from the use of a high drive radio input with the green "Dial a Watt" engaged.

I never use the "Dial a Watt" function.
In fact, I have disconnected that function in a couple of 500V amps and installed a fixed resistance 5 watt resistor, which essentially makes a high range output and a low range output amp.

 

[Sonar]

The Madison is 31/2-4 DK and 15 pep.
Are those outputs sufficient for the 500v?

Yes

The best way to operate the 500v is to not even use the variable pot........do not engage the green push button ....use the RF power adjust on your radio instead .....
You can use the green "Dial a Watt" just fine with a low drive radio. The variable will handle a low drive radio input RF just fine. The degradation of the variable pot comes from the use of a high drive radio input with the green "Dial a Watt" engaged.

I never use the "Dial a Watt" function.
In fact, I have disconnected that function in a couple of 500V amps and installed a fixed resistance 5 watt resistor, which essentially makes a high range output and a low range output amp.

What did you drive those 500v's with as far as dead keys and pep?
And what was the dead key and pep of the 500v with what you were driving it with?

 

[Sonar]

Is this a fair price for the 667v with the fan kit/base stand installed? $700 shipped.
This Ebay seller has lots of goodies, and excellent feedback.
I always check a seller's feedback as its a very important part in choosing who I will purchase something from. Thanks my friends.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124184024485

 

[Greg T]

Greg,
I told you the bug would bite! welcome to the madness, er. forum.
LC

LOL... I've already had the bug........and lost it 50 times. I've been a member of the forum since 2014, BUT, I've been on the air since 1964 and my first radio was an RCA Mark VII. I had 4 channels in it. 7, 9, 11, and 14.